FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

FASHION ISN'T DEAD. Fashion that sells now. Part 1
MONTHLY JOURNAL MAR. 2021

FASHION ISN'T DEAD.
Fashion that Sells Now. Part 1

The Japanese fashion industry is said to be having a hard time selling clothes. The media reports that apparel consumption is declining year after year and that major companies are going bankrupt or closing stores one after another make us want to turn our eyes away, but in fact, behind the scenes, some items are selling well. For example, loungewear, which is in high demand for stayhomes, and fishing wear, which has been quickly ignited by vests. But that's not all. In this issue of the Monthly Journal, we focus on hidden popular brands and hit products. In this issue of the Monthly Journal, we focus on hidden brands and hit products, and explore what is in demand in the current era through interviews with five fashion experts. In the first part, we interviewed Kazuma Shigematsu, representative of "ANTHINGS," which has been introducing the hottest brands, Tomonori Shibasaki, chief buyer of men's casual wear at "BEAMS," and Yuta Kaji, a stylist and designer of his own brand, "SANCÉ SANCÉ.

  • Photo_Shintaro Yoshimatsu, Yuco Nakamura
  • Text_Naoki Masuyama, Shogo Komatsu
  • Edit_Yuri Sudo

PROFILE

Yuta Kaji

He started his career as a stylist in 1998, working for magazines, advertisements, and brand looks, etc. Around 2007, he began working as a photographer. In 2008, he began directing the brand SANSE SANSE.

It is interesting to see a brand that reacts with the senses.

Do you feel any change as a stylist since the Corona disaster?

Kaji:I don't know the exact answer, but I think that up until now we have often been close to the user and gently offered answers, in general. But with the Corona disaster, I think we are in a situation where we no longer know the answer.

Is that what you felt from your work?

Kaji:That's right. In the past, I feel that many brands and media had their own image and asked us to make it as close to that image as possible. Recently, however, I feel that more and more clients are asking us stylists to "do as you please," and are entrusting us with the creation of the image. So, I have been able to expand what I can do to the fullest in my own way.

You are directing "SANCÉ SANCÉ," how is that going?

Kaji:As a stylist, especially in my way of doing things, selling or not selling is not necessary information. However, since I have been working with "SANCÉ SANCÉ" for the past two years, I have learned the joy of facing the reality of sales figures, even though I have not been involved in sales or lack thereof.

SANCÉ SANCÉ has been a Corona disaster since its debut, hasn't it?

Kaji:Yes, I did. But strangely enough, I was confident. That's because I had my own answers. Basically, as a stylist, I have been creating what I see around me and what I think, so trends had little to do with my work. SANCÉ SANCÉ is also different from other brands in that I am trying to break down the word "fashion" in my own way. As expected, the Corona Disaster grew as well, so I was able to answer the question within myself.

SANCÉ SANCÉ is located in a place that is not in the middle of the trend.

Kaji:That's right. Today's clothes are made of good materials, using good manufacturing methods, and adding "good" to each other. It is like trying to get a perfect score. But as time has changed and people have become more sophisticated, there is no longer a need for perfect scores. But at the same time, I feel that easy-to-understand terms such as "military" or "heritage" have become the trend instead of brand signs. So when I look for something that is not like that, it stands out. Like people, perfection is not the only thing that is beautiful. I think clothes are fun because you look for them with your own senses.

Yes, it is important to have a good sense of what is going on.

Kaji:So I am more interested in brands that are doing what I want to do. I don't know the reason for this, but I find that the silhouette and balance of a brand make me react with "Oh? I react with "Oh? I like items that have a certain smell, airiness, and comfort, and I can feel the brand's way of being through the clothes, which is why I picked them up this time.

Stock number〉Top: half-zip sweatshirt / moccasin boots, ¥22,000+TAX / ¥40,700+TAX (STOCK NO.(090-1197-7326)

The first item we would like to introduce to you is the "Stock Number," which consists of two items, the first of which is a pair of moccasin boots.

Kaji:I was like, "What are these shoes? But they don't look like Clarks," and I would ask, "What are those? I would ask them what they are. By having someone who is wearing them tell me about them, I can find out why I reacted the way I did.

I see that you are beginning to understand what you were reacting to with your senses. And next is the half-zip sweatshirt.

Kaji:The half-zip sweatshirt is basic and simple, but unlikely. What caught my attention was a trivial reason, but I think that trivial reason is important. I don't think what I have been doing for a long time has changed, and I don't think I am conscious of it, but when I notice it, it seems very current. I can feel that you are making what you like.

(Fumiya Hirano Bespoke) Bespoke black and white striped suit, ¥450,000- (03-6712-6625)

The second is a suit by Fumiya Hirano Bespoke.

Kaji:It seems they had just returned from London, so I did some research and finally found their brand. I visited them for the first time a while ago when I was looking for a suit to use for styling. When I visited their atelier, I felt a sense of comfort. They were sincere about making suits, and Mr. Hirano was easy to talk to. I understood Mr. Hirano's point of view, which is to make suits with great care, but not to make them look ostentatious.

Masuda] Saint Martin T-shirt, 5L, ¥1,610+tax (Uniform 1 official website)

And this T-shirt?

Kaji:Masuda" is a domestic body brand. I have been wearing blank body T-shirts for the past 20 years, and more and more people have been wearing them in the past few years. I think the trend is that people are pursuing styles that are different from the trends, and as a result, body brands are becoming more and more popular. Among them, there are not many domestic body brands, so I thought it would be interesting. I think it is good that it is different from other standard body brands.

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