FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

Manufacturing without a world view. Aplese presents an anonymous way of fashion.
CLOTHING EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT

Manufacturing without a world view. Aplese presents an anonymous way of fashion.

The strength of this brand is that it has no worldview," said Kazuma Shigematsu, director of the brand "A.PRESSE," which debuted for the fall/winter 2021 season. The ultimate simplicity is created by maintaining anonymity and eliminating the brand's colors. . However, hidden within it is a richness that only a lover of clothing can realize. Shigematsu has produced numerous fashion brands and projects. He and Ryo Miyoshi, director of "1LDK," with whom he has been in close contact both publicly and privately, talked about the first collection, which was "edited" from his unique point of view.

  • Photo_Ari Takagi,Shunya Arai (LOOK)
  • Text_Yuichiro Tsuji
  • Edit_Ryo Komuta

The strong point is that there is no worldview.

I would like to ask you about the actual production process, how do you edit and come up with your clothing designs?

Shigematsu: If I was going to make clothes, I wanted to make good clothes that could be worn for a long time, but I did not want to make it a selling point that they were good because they were expensive. But I did not want to make it a selling point that the clothes were good because they were high-end or anything like that. Good clothes are good," that is all I wanted to say, and that is the basis of my desire to make such clothes.

. When it comes to editing, I pay attention to the smallest of details. We even pay attention to the story behind the item, such as why we wanted to create it in the first place. For example, this cashmere fisherman's sweater weighs more than 1 kilogram.

Fisherman Pullover Sweater ¥154,000
This luxurious sweater is made of 10 1/20ths cashmere yarns and stuffed to the limit, so that it feels heavy in the hand. A super heavy-weight double-weave melton is sometimes described as a 1kg melton, but this is a sweater weighing over 1kg. Even so, this item is so full of cashmere that the weight is not bothersome at all when you wear it.

. The reason why I made it is because the Corona has increased my car trips, and I wear outerwear less and less. However, wearing only one middle-gauge cashmere sweater was not enough. So I wanted to make a sweater that could be worn alone. I like fisherman's sweaters, so I used that as a base, and then we would discuss and design the rest as we went along. That's why we are always having editorial meetings (laughs).

Do all your items have such an origin?

Shigematsu: Yes, there are, all of these one racks are sampling sources for "applesse". Denim pants, for example, are based on these. . The left side is the color, and the right side is the shape, and we made a pair of denim pants based on them.

Do you buy vintage clothes often?

Shigematsu: I often have the opportunity to travel to the countryside for work, and I repeatedly make the rounds of local stores to get information on which used clothing stores are good, and then go to the stores I have been told about and buy a lot of stuff. But rather than reproducing vintage clothing as-is, men's clothes are made with a little bit of a point of view, so we discuss these details with everyone and work them out as we go along.

Miyoshi-san, what did you think of Aplesse's clothes when you saw them?

Miyoshi: . I simply thought it was very nice. For example, this Drizzler has a nice feel and size when you put your sleeves on it, and the material is good. The price is quite expensive, but I feel that it is well worth it. Universal Products" has made similar clothes, but "Drizzlers" are very difficult to make. In our case, the price couldn't be too high because it was an original product, and we had to be careful not to make the size too big or too small, but we didn't get the response we wanted. But when I saw this Drizzler, I wanted to hold it in my hands and put my sleeves through it.

Drizzler Jacket ¥99,000
While based on the G-9 jacket, the overall design is more spacious. The tartan check lining is minimalist and luxurious, as it should be. The vintage-type zipper on the front, the round body rib made of high-twisted wool, and the sexy horn buttons, all the details have been taken care of.

Miyoshi: Also, the crew-neck knit that Mr. Shigematsu is wearing today looks ordinary at first glance, but when you look for it, you can't find many. There are many foreign brands that make high quality knits, but sometimes the size does not fit. However, I think that Aplesse's knitwear hits the right niche. I simply wanted to wear this kind of clothing myself, and it seemed to match the "1LDK" lineup, so I decided to carry it right away.

When you create an item, do you set a target?

Shigematsu: . I haven't decided on a specific one. I have a vague image of ordinary people who, like me, dress similarly every day. I am not good at trying too hard to look fashionable, and I like to wear T-shirts and jeans, or crew-neck knitwear and military pants, and so on. You might think that fast fashion is fine, but I prefer to wear clothes that are simple but made with attention to detail. I hope that people who love clothes with these values will wear my clothes.

As you mentioned, I think there are many people today who don't want to try too hard to be fashionable. In this context, I think there are more and more brands that design simple, high-quality clothes. What do you think are the strengths of "appliqués" in such a situation?

Shigematsu: What is clearly different from such brands is, as I mentioned at the beginning, the "single item" concept. Other brands have seasonal themes and colors. In other words, the entire collection reflects the designer's mood, and customers buy the brand's clothes because they identify with that mood. However, this is not the case with "appraisaisse," and its strength lies in the fact that it does not have a world view. We make each piece of clothing with a high degree of perfection, and I think that many people will like it.

So the clothes are anonymous.

Shigematsu: Yes, we do. It may sound strange to say, but our clothes can be worn by anyone. It would be difficult to find someone who can't wear them. However, the prices are not very reasonable (laughs), so in that sense, unless you really like clothes, it is difficult to get your hands on them.

There are clothes with a worldview and clothes without a worldview. Do you ever use such intentions as hints for your buying?

Miyoshi: I myself am the type of person who does not care much. If my worldview is too forward, I may feel that I am not in the mood for it. I think it is better to look at the clothes and judge them according to whether they are good or bad. . So, I feel that it is better not to be too loud.

Shigematsu: I think that fashion inevitably involves a lot of preconceptions. I want to eliminate such preconceptions as much as possible. That is one of the reasons why I keep the name small. I think it is just right that the name should not be visible when the clothes are sold at secondhand stores or through secondary distribution in the future. I myself don't buy clothes influenced by names or people, so I wanted to keep that part of the design solid.

. By doing so, they are less susceptible to fads, and even if they sit in the wardrobe for a few years, one day they will suddenly remember and wear them again.

Shigematsu: Yes, I agree. There is a great possibility that I may not be in the mood at the moment, but, well, that's okay.

. Even if I were no longer in the mood, I felt that the quality of the clothes is so decent that I wouldn't want to part with them.

Shigematsu: . I still have a point where I can't throw them away, and I want to keep them because I like them. . I tend to wear such clothes around, so I tend to have rather goofy clothes.

INFORMATION

A.PRESSE

Instagram:@a.presse_