Why Keisuke Baba chose Belstaff.

MY PARTNER IS BELSTAFF

Why Baba Keisuke chose Belstaff.

Founded in the UK in 1924, the long-established brand "BELSTAFF" made its long-awaited arrival in Japan last year. Based on motorcycle culture, the brand maintains a tough and masculine manufacturing style using waxed cotton with excellent durability and water resistance, and is well known in its home country of the UK as a high-end fashion brand. Now that Belstaff has just arrived in Japan, we would like to learn more about the story behind their clothes. For this issue, we asked Keisuke Baba, a stylist who loves British wear and culture, to tell us about his first encounter with Belstaff, its charms, and the secrets of how to wear it on the streets of Japan.

    Photo_Toyoaki Masuda
    Text_Shunsuke Hirota
    Edit_Yosuke Ishii
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Keisuke Baba

Born in Kumamoto, Japan, in 1958, he moved to England at the age of 26, where he met stylist Atsushi Okubo. After returning to Japan, he worked as Mr. Okubo's assistant and after one year became independent. Currently, while working as a stylist, he is also in charge of ENGLATAILOR by GB, of which he is the director.

The charm of Belstaff and how to deal with it in the UK

-You came to England in 1986, but did you know about Belstaff before that?

horse-riding groundAt that time, American casual wear was the mainstream when it came to vintage clothing, and there were only a few people who were interested in British fashion. I was inspired by British culture through "Saraba Seishun no Hikari" and music, and went to London.

-Even at that time, it was not yet widespread in Japan. That is surprising.

horse-riding groundThe first time I became aware of the existence of "Belstaff" was when I went to see a motorcycle race held every Saturday at Battersea Park on the Thames River. All the guys in the "59 Club" were wearing "Belstaff" over their leather jackets. I guess they didn't want to damage their leather jackets when they fell down. When I actually talked to Englishmen, they would say that they were lucky because they were wearing waxed jackets when they got knocked down on their bikes. I thought that was really cool, and after that, when I found one in good condition at the market (flea market for old clothes and tools), I tried to buy one.

-What was the situation like in London at that time?

horse-riding groundI used to go to Portobello and Camden Town every day to look for leather jackets to sell to vintage stores in Japan. I collected leather jackets for business, but "Belstaff" was completely my hobby. There is a store called "Vintage Showroom" that I visit when I go to London, and even now, when I find a jacket in good condition and size, I buy it for myself.

-So you actually saw people wearing the Belstaff as gear? Do you yourself wear the Belstaff as gear?

horse-riding groundIt rains a lot in England, and it's windy, so we don't use umbrellas, and I think that's why materials like the waxed cotton used by Belstaff were created. However, I don't ride a motorcycle, and I like the style more than the gear.

-The jacket you are wearing today also has a nice atmosphere.

horse-riding groundI like the unwaxed texture of "Belstaff. I prefer to wear vintage clothes, but I also like the atmosphere of clothes that have been customized and repaired with patches by the previous owner.

-Do you have any advice from your perspective as a stylist, such as "this is how to wear it"?

horse-riding groundWhen I went to London recently, I saw many businessmen on Bond Street wearing "Belstaff" as outerwear over their suits, and I thought, "It would be cool if Japanese people wore it this way, too. They probably wear "Belstaff" instead of a raincoat or overcoat, without worrying about the brand's history or other trivia. The Brits are good at wearing clothes for a purpose like that.

-What do you think is the reason why you are attracted to Belstaff?

horse-riding groundBritish clothes are generally rugged and hard-wearing, so they don't suit everyone. That is why fashionable girls like British clothes, but in order for them to be popular among the general public, the disadvantages of British clothes must be overcome. The latest "Belstaff" clothes are less sticky and less smelly, and the fabric is less ounce-weighted, so they are lighter and more comfortable to wear, making them easy to put on and off. It is easy to match with suits as well as with casual wear, so I hope people in Japan will wear it both on and off the job. Besides, people who wear "Belstaff" in Japan are quite fond of clothes, so when I see them on the street, I can't help but follow them with my eyes.

Vintage pieces found through local searches.

From 1986 to the present, Baba has visited the U.K. frequently and acquired many "Belstaffs," but he has also given away many of them. In other words, the pieces he has on hand are the very best of the very best. Here are some of Baba's favorite vintage pieces that have met his eye.

COLLECTION 1

I found this "Trialmaster" in the UK around 2000. The crossbones pattern patch and pin badge were installed by the previous owner. The Trialmaster's badge and pin badge are from a previous owner, who had them installed by the previous owner. The Brits have a great sense of customization.

COLLECTION 2

This is a "Trialmaster" made in the 50s or 60s, which he found at a "vintage showroom" in London, which he always visits when he visits the UK, and asked to be given to him. On the back is a patch with the word "ENGLAND" and the Union Flag. He says, "It was very hard to get it, but I managed to ask for it and got it, and it's my favorite.

COLLECTION 3

A "Trial Master" made in the 50s or 60s, which would have been worn by a biker, as it has BSA and Norton patches on the chest. It shows signs of having been repaired from severe damage, mainly on the right side of the body, perhaps from a fall on a motorcycle. It has been repaired by sewing in another waxed cotton fabric instead of the symbiosis fabric, and it is an accent to the overall look.

COLLECTION 4

This is a simple "Trial Master" with no patches or repairs. It was made in the 60s or 70s with shoulder patches and elbow patches. The oil has worn off and given it a withered look, and the creases on the sleeves are attractive.

It would be a shame to let it be exclusive to motorcyclists. The new Belstaff you will want to wear in a variety of situations.

As Baba mentioned, the current Belstaff has evolved into a three-season and all-weather outerwear that is more suitable for city use, with less wax smell and stickiness. The Roadmaster is the successor to Baba's Trialmaster and is a sharper, more up-to-date model. With a symmetrical four-pocket design and a tighter silhouette, the "Roadmaster" is a standard Belstaff model that fits not only when riding a bike, but also for city use. In addition, the blouson-type "Race Master" and a special-order model created in collaboration with the domestic brand "SOPHNET.

ROADMASTER

Each ¥113,000 + tax
Made of uniquely waxed cambric cotton for improved breathability and water resistance, the Roadmaster combines the functionality and fashionability that motorcyclists demand with a stand collar with tabs for windproofing and fitting, and a buckle belt. The shoulders are doubly reinforced for safety and water resistance, and the collar lining is made of skin-friendly corduroy. A metal plate is placed on the back side of the placket. In addition to the brand's standard black, a wide variety of colors have been developed in recent years, and light-colored models like the new beige color have been added.

RACEMASTER

¥92,000+TAX
The iconic "Roadmaster," first introduced in 1981, has been updated with a shorter length for easier wear. Multiple interior and exterior zippered pockets with snaps protect your belongings from the elements, while underarm eyelets provide ventilation.

BELSTAFF × SOPHNET. ROADMASTER

¥118,000+TAX
The "Roadmaster" in collaboration with Sofnet retains the authentic look, but is twisted to navy overall, and navy camouflage fabric is used at the elbows. The camouflage polyester lining and rayon lining on the sleeves also improve the sleeve lining.

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