FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

FASHION IN TURBULENT TIMESSubjectivity and objectivity in fashion.VOL.02
MONTHLY JOURNAL SEP. 2021

FASHION IN TURBULENT TIMES
Subjectivity and objectivity in fashion.VOL.02

The world of fashion is becoming increasingly fragmented. There is no longer an absolute right answer, and the era of micro-trends has arrived, where each person enjoys his or her own likes and dislikes. The theme of this fashion feature is "subjective" and "objective. HOUYHNHNM's is currently paying attention to brands and store buyers, and we will summarize dynamic trend trends in one article each. This time, we will focus on "objective. Focusing on "PHAETON" from Komatsu, Ishikawa, which has marked 10 years since its opening, "LOFTMAN," a leading brand in the Kansai region, which will make its debut in Tokyo this October, and "Bishop" from Kobe, which skillfully chews "basics" of any era. Bishop" from Kobe, which has always been a master of "basics". What are the secret strategies of these three stores that are going on the offensive in an age when it is said that clothes are not selling due to the prolonged self-restraint?

  • Photo_Shinpei Hanawa, Kazuma Yamano
  • Text_Shohei Kuroda
  • Edit_Ryo Muramatsu

PROFILE

Tetsuya Uematsu
Manager of "Loftman Tokyo

In his 10th year with Loftman, a leading select store in the Kansai region, he reached the milestone of turning 30 years old and at the same time became the store manager of Loftman Tokyo, which will open this October. . He is such a movie buff that he watches about 300 movies a year.

. We want to return to our roots and deliver heavy-duty clothing with the opening of our new store in Tokyo.

We heard that you have decided to open a new store in Tokyo. Please tell us about the styles you are focusing on this fall/winter as "Loftman," including this new store.

This season, we are proposing a fashion style that emphasizes layering. Last year, perhaps due to the fact that it was the first year of Corona, it was noticeable on the streets that people wore knitwear and parkas and that was it, rather than layering. I felt that something was missing, and that was the reason why I decided to use the keyword "American casual" to encourage customers to enjoy dressing in a way that feels like the 90s, even if it is a bit dull and stale. I feel that if we can add imported items such as "Filson" and "Patagonia," which are considered standard items, it will bring out the essence of our company. The lack of sophistication is what makes it so good. I believe that over-specification, which is more than enough for street wear, is attractive to men.

Do you have many items in this fall/winter lineup that will fit in with such layering?

Yes, I agree. While many items have become corona-disaster and comfortable to wear, there have also been an increase in inorganic designs, haven't there? We have put this trend aside for the moment and are focusing on heavy-duty items that go back to their roots. Fatigue pants by "Sassafras" are a good example of this. I'm attracted to products that are not rehashed vintage products with a nostalgic feel, but rather have a brand's own unique twist. Many of the customers of "Loftman" are discerning. Regular vintage clothing is fine, but I would like to continue to introduce items that are particular about not only the fabric and sewing, but also the production background.

SASSAFRAS "OVERGROWN FATIGUE PANTS" The pockets, which can also hold a shovel and scissors for plants, provide enough storage space to go empty-handed in town. . ¥28,600

Patagonia "SYNCH ANORAK" A new version of Patagonia's popular "Snap T" series. The vintage-inspired detail of the logo only on the zipper pull is impressive. The double-layered pockets also come in handy. ¥19,800

. What are your best-selling items at the start of the season?

In the Kyoto store, there are pants from "Daiwa Pier 39," "Blurhms," and a special order from "SAI," which has already sold out. However, starting with the "Lance," a special order from Paraboot, new items from each brand will start arriving in October, and the entire fall/winter lineup will be ready around November. The Tokyo store will feature brands that are carried at the Loftmann Coop Kyoto, Loftmann Coop Ohana, Loftmann 1981, and Loftmann B.D. stores in Kyoto, so I think you will enjoy a lineup that is well worth seeing.

Do you work with various brands on special-order items?

In addition to the tote bag with a nylon drawstring attached that I ordered from "Tembea," there is a sweatshirt from "Phil Melange" that only the owner can grin at by using an olive color for the lining, and a wallet from "White House Cox" that uses the highest quality leather with a glossy finish. . Like the special order of "Paraboots," which sublimated the brown work shoes into a dressy impression, each item has been created with the buyer's thoughts and feelings that cannot be found in ready-to-wear products. More special-order items will be arriving at the Tokyo store in the future.

FilMelange "LFM-MILES (LEFT) & LFM-MAX (RIGHT)" This special-order sweatshirt by "Loftman" has been changed to a pullover style and is lined with an olive lining. ¥28,600 (top), ¥26,400 (pants)

Whitehouse Cox The wallet, specially ordered from White House Cox, is made of the same high quality leather as that of a certain maison, and features an external coin pocket. The inside of the wallet opens up to reveal a neatly arranged card compartment. ¥33,000

Paraboot "REIMS". This is the "Lance" loafer, a special order for Paraboot. In addition to dropping in the highly robust and elegant grained leather of the dress line, the sole was casually changed to a thinner one. . ¥71,500

What is the purpose of opening a store in Tokyo, where select stores are crowded? Why the Corona Disaster now?

Actually, regardless of Corona, we already had the idea of opening a Tokyo store about 10 years ago. The reason for setting up the store in Yoyogi Uehara was because it resembled the atmosphere of Imadegawa (a downtown area in Kyoto), where the first "Lofty Man" store was located. Also, in the past, I had held regular pop-ups at the select store "Varnish" also in Yoyogi Uehara, and I fell in love with the atmosphere of a slow-paced time, even though it was close to the city center. . Our goal was to be a "clothing store in town. . I want to talk with customers and have them pick up good products that are not throw-away.

. It looks like a fun shopping experience with a different atmosphere from the Kyoto store.

As with the first store in Imadegawa, we are a community-based store, and I think the best thing about our store is that we can talk with our customers at length. Our ideal is to have customers first fall in love with the store, then with the staff, and finally say, "If this person introduces me to someone, I am sure I can trust him or her. For example, when it comes to a Patagonia fleece jacket, I think it is more memorable if the customer is treated well by the staff and told, "This fabric can be easily washed at home," "This size fits you well," or "The next item is coming in, and I think it would look great with this jacket. I think it will look good with this jacket. . We believe it is our mission to give our customers an experience that they cannot get when shopping online. . And in the future, we are planning a pop-up where the Kyoto staff will use the Tokyo store's boxes. It will also be a place where people can experience the atmosphere of Kyoto, our base, and learn more about the appeal of all "Lofty Man" stores.

Mr. Uematsu will be the store manager of "Loftman Tokyo," which is scheduled to open this October. The interview was conducted at "Loftman Coop Kyoto" where he serves as a buyer.

INFORMATION

phaeton

Open: 12:00 - 20:00
Address: I239, Ikiri-cho, Kaga City, Ishikawa Prefecture
Phone: 0761-74-1881
Official Site

Loftmann Coop Kyoto

Open: 12:00-18:00 (shortened hours due to declared state of emergency)
Address: 280 Enpukuji-mae-cho, Takoyakushi-sagaru, Teramachi-dori, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, Kyoto
Phone: 075-212-5352
Official Site

bishop

Phone: 03-5775-3266
Official Site

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