77 Circa and Wild Things gave us some ideas on how to enjoy military wear. | feature

77 Circa and Wild Things gave us some ideas for enjoying military wear.

77circa, a master of reassembling vintage clothing, and WILD THINGS, a leader of the modern military boom, have once again met and released the "Luster Print M-48 Test Sample Coat" based on the M-48 test sample and incorporating details of the M-65 fishtail parka. Test Sample Coat," which is based on the M-48 test sample and incorporates details of the M-65 fishtail parka. We asked Mr. Moriyama, the designer of 77 Circa, about the points and particulars that went into the design, and also invited Mr. Kurihara, who has a deep knowledge of vintage clothing and military wear, to give us his impressions from a professional's point of view. We also invited Mr. Kurihara, who has an extensive knowledge of vintage clothing and military wear, to share his thoughts from a professional's point of view. We will look at the appeal of this collaboration as a fashion item from various perspectives, and not just as an ultimate knowledge.

Photo_Cho Ongo

Text_Shogo Komatsu

Edit_Yosuke Ishii

The luster of the fabric was a particular focus.

This is the second collaboration between 77 Circa and Wild Things, following last year.

Moriyama:Last time we collaborated on the Monster Parka, but this time we made the PrimaLoft padding thinner so that it can be worn for a longer season.

Kurihara:Indeed, the Monster Parka was warm enough to wear a sweatshirt inside.

Moriyama:I thought that people would enjoy the fashionable look more if they could layer several pieces. The thinner the padding, the lighter the weight, and when the drawcord at the waist is tightened to keep it close to the body, it is warm enough even though it is thin. . The drape created by tightening the waistband is another reason why we made the padding thinner.

A beautiful drape emerges when the drawcord at the waist is tightened.

. The luster of the prints throughout the fabric is accentuated by the drape of the fabric.

Moriyama:The thin nylon is printed with original colors to give it a sheen. This outerwear was planned with a fabric. I like the sporty nylon texture and wanted a coat with that look. I brought these two jackets (an anorak from "JC Higgins" and a satin jacket from "Batwin") to the factory and asked them to make several color samples of patterns, and asked them to make a print with a dull sheen in the middle. The black one has the most luster, while the olive one does not have as much luster.

JC Higgins' anorak (left) and Batwin's satin jacket (right), the target of this collaboration's fabrics.

Kurihara:. olive is like the sage green of a flight jacket.

Moriyama:I thought that people who wear olive might not need that much sheen. . The silhouette and details were decided from the beginning, so it took me a long time to adjust the print and padding. Nylon and prints have different affinities, and the luster depends on the fabric, so I compared various options.

Kurihara:. Basically, the details are simple, but the glossy look lives up to the design. . The silhouette is large, so it feels even more so.

Moriyama:When I make large silhouettes in cotton, I find them to be fluffy and lacking in design. Especially for outerwear in subdued colors, you want the design to make a statement. . However, if a thin fabric is given a sheen, it will look different depending on the movement of the wearer, and this will be reflected in the design.