02 : INTERVIEW WITH SOTA MIYASHITA This spring is a loafer festival.
PROFILE
Buyer of men's shoes at Isetan Shinjuku Men's Department Store. After graduating from Keio University, he joined Isetan Mitsukoshi . He is a baseball fanatic who stepped on the Koshien pitch three times in the spring and summer, but after his last summer was over, he started working part-time at a secondhand clothing store the next day.
Isetan Shinjuku Men's Building Shoes Department" is one of the world's most prestigious halls of men's shoes. Although the Corona disaster forced us to stand still as you might expect, it is coming back to life with the return of leather shoes. As soon as the bell bugs could be heard, side gore boots and U-tips sold far better than expected. This spring, "ISETAN MEN'S" has put loafers on the sales floor in full force. A pop-up dedicated to these shoes is also being held until Tuesday, March 22.
I heard that there were signs of leather shoes starting to move last summer.
Miyashita:Gurkha sandals sold like hotcakes. Gurkas are sandals made of woven leather , with their roots in the shoes worn by the Gurkha soldiers, a mercenary unit of the British army. . Until now, it had been all about sneakers and sports shoes. . Clearly, I sensed a change in direction. I checked the looks of designer brands to see if there was a shift to leather footwear.
Convinced of a return to leather shoes, we went into the fall/winter season with a large stock of side gores and U-tips, which can be worn casually, and this reading proved to be spot on. The effect of the tailwind was also evident in the events. The "ISETAN Shoe Expo," which has become an autumn tradition, and the "THE MUSEUM OF VINTAGE SHOES," held in conjunction with SAFARI, an established vintage store, drew such lines that admission had to be restricted.
I'm glad to hear the good news after a long time.
Miyashita:The mood for wearing leather shoes is certainly on the rise, but the situation is different than it was a decade ago.
What do you mean?
Miyashita:What is in demand today are not so-called "leather shoes that go with suits," such as straight-tip shoes. As business styles have become more casual, shoes that go well with chinos and denim have sold well. . That was the case with side gores and U-tips. Another trend that can be cited is the strong sales of brands in the 70,000-80,000 yen class. Businessmen no longer need to go to work every day due to the spread of teleworking, right? Lifestyles have changed, and people are choosing shoes that can be worn out over time, rather than shoes that can be worn out over time. . It can be considered in the same context that shoe care goods are selling well.
What did you do this spring in light of this situation?
Miyashita:The main focus is on loafers . Tomorrow (February 23), the start of the spring/summer sales season, we will launch a pop-up featuring a wide selection of loafers. The lineup includes long-established staples such as J.M. WESTON, John Lobb, and Crockett & Jones, as well as special orders that reflect the spirit of the times.
Why did you focus on loafers?
Miyashita:For a generation accustomed to sneakers , leather shoes are heavy and stiff. The loafer is the shoe they can change into without any resistance. Loafers are easy to put on and take off , and their simple construction makes them comfortable for the feet. However, loafers are not adjustable with laces, so the quality of the wooden form greatly affects the comfort of the shoe. . In the buying process, we kept this in mind.
A good example is the Cavendish 3, picked up from Crockett & Jones. This model has been updated with a lower instep and a smaller heel. Combined with the brand's original rubber city sole, the comfort is nothing short of blissful. The tasseled "Cavendish 3" also has the style to elevate any style.
Crockett & Jones' "Cavendish 3" tassel loafers. The key features are the tree shape that easily fits Japanese feet, the city rubber sole, and the elegant tassels. ¥90,200
Who are your opponents?
Miyashita:The U-tip has been continuously popular since the fall. The U-tip, with its rugged color, is an appropriate finishing touch to a casual style. Originating from country shoes born in England, many of these shoes are resistant to rain and are very sturdy. The fact that there is no need to be nervous about taking care of them will also make them more approachable for the sneaker generation.
J.M. WESTON's "Yacht" is the second pair you just bought, Mr. Miyashita.
Miyashita:The Yacht was a hidden gem that no one in the know could resist, blending in with a T-shirt or polo shirt, but not looking out of place under a coat. No deck shoes can match the luxurious feel of the oily "Dupuis" Russian calf, tone-on-tone engraving, and rugged tread pattern.
J.M. WESTON's "Yacht," an undiscovered masterpiece. The masculine and elegant aspect symbolized by the "Dupuis" leather named "Russian calf" is a masterpiece. ¥143,000
Who is the dark horse?
Miyashita:Fratelli Giacometti" is now attracting attention again among fashion-conscious people. The form and pattern work of these shoes have a depth of feeling that allows them to be worn not only with dress styles but also with mode and maison wear, and they are widely favored by our staff. Our recommendation is the single monk. The delicate strap and shiny tailstuds are perfect for the current mood. It is perfect for the current mood.
Single monks by F.LLI Giacometti. The delicate monk strap and tailstuds are reflected in the intricate shape. ¥107,800
Mr. Miyashita, you have been promoting "Berwick" since last year, haven't you?
Miyashita:This is another brand for an entry-level model of leather shoes. They are made in Spain and cost under 30,000 yen. That alone makes you want to loosen your purse strings, but no detail has been left out. The upper is wax-coated leather from the prestigious Spanish tannery "Picusa. It is resistant to rain and dirt, and shines with just a quick wipe. Emulsifying cream does not easily penetrate this type of leather, but there is no need to worry with this thinly finished leather. Another key point is the Vibram Gum Light sole, a new innovation from Vibram. By foaming the rubber, it is said to be one-half the weight of conventional shoes.
Spanish brand " Berwick1707. . Wax-coated leather is resistant to rain and dirt, and the "Vibram Gum Light Sole" is one-half the weight of conventional shoes. Goodyear welt sole. ¥29,700
Last summer, you launched the "ISETAN VINTAGE PROJECT," a buy-back service, and other initiatives not seen in conventional shoe stores. What kind of blueprint do you have in mind for fiscal 2022?
Miyashita:We are still a little ways off, but this fall we will be starting a storage service. Storage and management is a headache for shoe lovers . This is a service to solve this problem. With the launch of this service, following the "ISETAN VINTAGE PROJECT," the men's shoe department will be able to "handle shoes from cradle to grave". We look forward to your continued support.
INFORMATION
Phone: 03-3352-1111 (main representative)
Official Site
Instagram : @isetanmens_shoes
