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FEATURE|. PRIDE OF KURUME Explores Kurume's long-established sneaker factory. We will explore the true value of Moonstar.

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PRIDE OF KURUME

Exploring Kurume's long-established sneaker factory. We will explore the true value of Moonstar.

Everyone has worn sneakers at least once, but did you know that they have actually been manufactured in Japan for a long time? At the factory in Kurume City, Fukuoka Prefecture, where the long-established Japanese shoe brand "moonstar" is based, high quality products that are rare in the world are made every day based on two traditional techniques: vulcanizing and injection manufacturing. The editorial staff flew to Kurume in order to discover the true value of the company's craftsmanship, which is also influencing the contemporary fashion scene.

  • Photo_Toyoaki Masuda
  • Text_Tetsu Takasuka
  • Edit_Yosuke Ishii

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Kurume Becomes a City of Rubber as MoonStar Moves Forward

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Kurume City , with a population of 300,000, is located in the southern part of Fukuoka Prefecture. Kurume City, with a population of 300,000, is located in the southern part of Fukuoka Prefecture and is known as a "rubber town" with a large concentration of rubber product-related industries. Why did Kurume become a rubber town? In fact, Moonstar is indispensable in explaining the reason.

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Moonstar was founded in 1873. The company's original name was "Tsuchiya Tabi-Ten" (つちやたび店). As the name suggests, the company started as a small store engaged in the manufacture and sale of traditional Japanese tabi socks. The founder was Unpei Kurata . Although there were twists and turns during the upheavals of the Meiji period (1868-1912), the high quality Tabi Shoes sewn with a German-made sewing machine became popular, and the business got on track. A major turning point came in the 1920s. The third president saw a pair of American-made canvas shoes brought by the manager of Singer Sewing Machine, a business partner of the company, and this inspired him to come up with the idea of Tabi Shoes with rubber soles, which he successfully commercialized after a trial and error process. Competing with other rubber-related manufacturers that existed at the same time, the company helped to boost the rubber industry in Kurume City. Later, the company began manufacturing school shoes, athletic shoes, and sneakers with rubber soles. The company name was changed to "Tsukiboshi Rubber Co. Thus, it is no exaggeration to say that MoonStar is the company that laid the foundation for Kurume's development as a rubber town.

PROCESS1 FINE VULCANIZED

. The traditional vulcanizing method is followed.

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MoonStar has grown to become one of the leading companies in Kurume City. One of the technologies that has supported the company is the vulcanization method, which has been cultivated since the days of Tabi Shoes production. This method, in which a rubber sole mixed with sulfur is attached to the upper and secured by applying heat and pressure, is widely used in sneaker manufacturing, but currently only a few Japanese manufacturers use this method, and most overseas manufacturers also use a simplified version. MoonStar, however, adheres to the old-fashioned method, which is labor-intensive but produces comfortable footwear and durability, and is the pride of the company.

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The manufacturing site for "ALWEATHER," the much talked-about rain shoes developed in collaboration with Stussy Livin' General Store. (above) The upper is formed based on a last that has been created from the measurements of more than 260,000 people. The upper material itself is produced in-house by gluing two pieces of canvas together to form a double layer. (Bottom) The upper material is placed over the last, and the shoe is then hung and adjusted.

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(above) The products are transported to the next process by a conveyor belt. Various efforts are made to maintain quality while increasing production efficiency, such as by dividing the workload between the various processes. (bottom) Adhesives are applied to the parts where rubber parts are attached to make them waterproof.

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(Top) Heat to dry the adhesive so that it can adhere more firmly. (Bottom) The rubber parts are quickly affixed. In order to enhance the comfort of the shoes, even the slightest deviation is not allowed.

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(above) Rubber parts are applied to the toe portion. (Top) Rubber parts are attached to the toe portion of the sole. (Bottom) The rubber taped to the sole is reinforced. The order in which the rubber is applied changes the appearance and strength of the sole, so the design is carefully calculated.

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(Upper) Apply pressure to the attached rubber to make it adhere firmly to the upper. (bottom) Attach the toe guards, which will make the shoes more robust and also give them a martial appearance. Attaching the toe guards without distortion is a difficult task.

. This is where the Vulcanization method really comes into its own.

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The "ALWEATHER" is about to be put into the kettle after the outsole is attached. At first glance, they appear to be finished, but at this stage, the rubber is so soft that it can be torn off by hand and has no elasticity.

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This is an essential part of the vulcanizing process. Moonstar uses a total of five kettles. Each has different temperature, pressure, and time settings, and they are used according to the characteristics of each product. Each kettle holds approximately 300 pairs of shoes, and each process takes about 90 minutes and runs about four times a day.

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By applying heat and pressure, a chemical reaction called "vulcanization" is induced, in which added sulfur molecules bond the rubber to each other, making it tough and elastic. When the kettle is opened, the completed "ALWEATHER" is seen with steam. The rubber part has a rich luster that is completely different from the previous one. Actually, the rubber just after coming out of the kettle has the most beautiful appearance," says factory manager Kazuyuki Ichimaru.

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Mr. Toshiaki Shikatani is currently in charge of the vulcanizing process. . "We adjust the temperature and change the kettles we use to suit the various products. It takes a lot of strength to open and close the heavy kettle lids, and the heat from the kettle is tremendous. However, it is the last and most important process, and we cannot afford to spoil the product that everyone has worked so hard to produce. We are always working with a sense of tension and responsibility," he said.

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ALWEATHER ¥14,000

The "ALWEATHER" has a dignified look, created through the application of heat and pressure. It is no exaggeration to say that this all-weather shoe, which brings together the technology and experience we have cultivated to date, is an item that symbolizes the modern "MoonStar.

On the next page, we will look at another face of Moonstar, the Chic Injection Series.
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