( Prologue )

With the evolution of the Internet and smartphones, shopping is becoming instantaneous .
While it is possible to obtain goods of reasonable quality at a reasonable price, nowadays,
People who are particular about what they do look for things of value.
In fact, buyers at major department stores are,
Adults who used to choose reasonably priced items are now visiting the stores,
He says that he seeks well-designed and well-made products.

There is a reason why things are valuable , and why they are expensive,
The joy of holding it in one's hands and the experience gained from it should be irreplaceable.
This Series is "GENUINE (real)" and "HOUYHNHNM."
Under the title "GH", a combination of initials,
. We will explore what we really need to buy in this age of overflowing goods.

#01 How to see things in uncertain times.

Interview with Mr. Kurino

Mr. Kurino , now required.
What is fashion?

Hirofumi Kurino, who was involved in the founding of UNITED ARROWS and has been observing the world of fashion for many years, published his book "The World after Mode" in 2020, which sold over 20,000 copies and brought a new perspective on clothing to many people. What are the shopping preferences of such a person? When we asked him about this question, he began to talk about the things he has bought while holding them in his hands.

Photo_Kazuma Yamano
Text_Kei Takegwa
Edit_Ryo Muramatsu
Web & Design BONITO / Rhino.inc

Hirofumi Kurino

In 2020, he will publish his first book, "The World After Mode" (Fusosha). 21 years later, he joined "Humanos", founded by Hiroki Nakao, as an advisor.
Instagram:@kurino_san.dst

Today, you have brought some of your personal belongings with you. First of all, I would like to introduce you to a jacket by "Keaton.

Kurino:It all started with a special exhibition I saw in Florence. I was struck by the navy jacket made of Keaton's signature superfine wool, the floor strewn with navy scraps, and the night sky that reminded me of the deep color of indigo. I was so moved by the navy's woven strangeness that I visited a store in Milan the next day and bought a jacket I tried on without even looking at the price tag (laughs). That is this jacket.

I was thrilled by the special event "Two or Three Things I Know About Ciro" held at Pitti Uomo 91. The event was held in honor of Ciro Paone, the founder of the company.

Kiton - Jacket

1991

After seeing the "Two or Three Things I Know About Ciro" event honoring the founder, Ciro Paone, I couldn't resist purchasing a "Keaton" jacket. It is Mr. Kurino's first Keaton.

This event was held after Paone became the third person in history to receive the "Pitti Immagine Career Award," following Nino Cerutti and Giorgio Armani. Paone's dining table and production site were recreated at the event. Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Uomo, said, "It condensed the taste, passion, and tireless dedication poured into supporting beauty. This was a rare event that clarified the worldview of the "Keaton" brand by highlighting what lies behind the craftsmanship.

Kurino: The person in charge of direction was Angelo Flaccavento. . He is a writer and creator who is also known for editing the English version of the catalog for the "MIYAKE ISSEY Exhibition: The Work of Issey Miyake.

. I thought it was a great direction.

Kurino: "Keaton" was a brand that was on the sales floor of "UNITED ARROWS" when it was first established. . Although there were some difficulties in terms of price, the products were definitely good. The brand's tailoring techniques were used sparingly, and it is no wonder that it is praised as a leading brand in classic Italian tailoring. The softness and comfort of the garments are beyond description.

At the time of the interview, Mr. Kurino was wearing a jacket by Caruso, a shirt by United Arrows, a tie by Canepa, which he has worn for 40 years, and chinos by SAI. The belt is from Hermes, which appears in this article.

The brand has many fans in the industry.

Kurino: Actually, this jacket is my first "Keaton" jacket. I had a different feeling about it.

There is a restaurant in Milan called "Paper Moon," which I started visiting when I heard that Armani came here for lunch every day during his business trips to Milan in the 1980s. Ciro, in his later years, also frequented this restaurant, and I have seen him there several times. He was in a wheelchair, but he was always perfectly dressed for the occasion. He would sit down in his chair, put on his napkin, and take his time to eat his meal with grace and elegance. Once again, I was impressed (by his gentlemanly behavior, which embodies the Keaton manufacturing style).

. So, First Keaton was a tribute to Paone.

Kurino: This is not a new thing, but it is my policy when shopping whether or not respect is involved. It is a matter of course that good products are good, but it does not end there. It is a feeling of respect for the philosophy of the team of craftsmen, designers, and others who go beyond that. I pay for it after accepting the way to relate to the thing.

It is true that the specie-praise principle has trained Japanese people's eyes to look at things, but that alone is a lonely thing. . I think Mr. Kurino's way of thinking is very rich.

Kurino: Thank you very much. . If I may add, it has added to my awareness of spending money for myself. I have always enjoyed visiting museums and reading books, but this Corona has spurred me on.

One is the Tate Modern, a modern and contemporary art museum in London . This museum was built as part of the "Millennium Project" (a project to commemorate the year 2000). I visited the museum soon after it opened and became a member. As a member, special exhibitions are free (permanent exhibitions are always free), and you can enter without waiting in line. The museum literally specializes in modern and contemporary art, and is a must for Pop Art lovers.

For example, "LIFE BETWEEN ISLANDS CARIBBEAN-BRITISH ART 1950s-NOW," which ran until April 3 this year. How have artists from the Caribbean influenced British culture today? This is a retrospective of how Caribbean artists have influenced today's British culture. It's a strange story when you think about it. Geographically, the United States is closer, but why did they come to England?

Exhibition "LIFE BETWEEN ISLANDS CARIBBEAN-BRITISH ART 1950S-NOW" - Catalog

2021

Official book of the special exhibition LIFE BETWEEN ISLANDS CARIBBEAN-BRITISH ART 1950s-NOW at the Tate Modern. . The theme of the exhibition is how artists from the Caribbean have influenced British culture today. There are also pages of commentary by noted designer Grace Welsh Bonner.

. It is certainly an intriguing theme. You brought with you the official book published in conjunction with the exhibition.

Kurino: If I waited, it might be available on "Amazon" and other places, but I couldn't stand it and ordered it.

I have been in Corona for 3 years and have been away from the "Tate Modern". However, I found this book by continuing my membership . And it gives me an idea for my work. The annual membership fee is 47 pounds (about 11,750 yen); even for three years, it's a little over 30,000. . It's not too much considering that I live for buying and directing, and it's also a way to support them. The museum's donation is also an important part of its operating expenses.

Tate Modern
- Magazine & Member's Card

2000~

A member's card and newsletter of the Tate Modern, a modern and contemporary art museum in London . Mr. Kurino, a pop art lover, became a member soon after the museum opened (2000).

. The other is opera.

Kurino: This is the catalog for "Orlando," which was performed at the Vienna State Opera in December 2007. Orlando" was the first opera for which Ms. Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons designed the costumes. She agreed with the idea of using a woman as the composer, writer, and director. The story and staging of the opera, based on Virginia Woolf's novel, were quite avant-garde and controversial, but I enjoyed it.

If I could go on a business trip, I would be happy to do so, but I think it is an important attitude to pay for the airfare, hotel, and meals with the money I worked for. Since I took my family with me, it was the most expensive business trip I have ever taken, simply put (laughs).

Opera "ORLANDO"
- Catalog

2019

Catalog for the opera "Orlando". This is the first opera for which Ms. Rei Kawakubo of COMME des GARCONS designed the costumes, in support of the attempt to use women as composers, writers, and directors.

. How about fashion items?

Kurino: I have prepared "Hermes. I don't own many luxury brands because I don't want to pay for advertising, but Hermes is an exception.

Hermès does not call itself a luxury brand in the first place. They invariably refer to themselves as a family of artisans. And they are not expensive by any means.

Let's consider a typical scarf. The main price range would be around 60,000 yen. Considering the quality of the silk, the design of the print, the cost of the printing plates, the craftsmanship of hand-rolling, and the energy and cost that goes into making such a product, I think it is fair to say that the price is reasonable.

Hermès - Scarf

About 2010

Mr. Kurino uses an oversized "Jumbo" scarf from " Hermes" that he folds up. . He said he felt the professionalism of the scarf.

. It is also a scarf that you brought with you. It is much larger than usual.

Kurino: I got this scarf from a store in Saint-Germain about 10 years ago, and its name is "Jumbo". I fold it up and use it. I think women can wear it as a shawl.

What was the point of loosening the purse strings?

Kurino: The size was not out of necessity, nor was it aimed at creating a buzz (laughs). . It is just the spirit of a professional who proposes scarves. It is a challenge to expand the possibilities of scarves. That's what I found so exciting about it.

Hermes is soft-headed. That's why it will last for 150 years. YOSHIROTTEN (Art Director) was entrusted with the image visual for the Omotesando store (the 29th store in Japan opening in 2021).

Hermès - Belt

About 2000

This belt is made of saddle leather, the leather used for harnesses, which is the root of Hermes' business. The price is almost the same as the ready-to-wear product, in the 50,000-yen range. When Mr. Kurino asked if there was an up-charge, the staff replied, "Non!

The belt is also by Hermes.

Kurino: This is a picture of the main store in SAINT HONORE about 20 years ago. At that time, there were not many men's products available. When I asked them to make it in saddle leather (leather used for saddles, which is the origin of "Hermes"), the price was a surprise at 50,000 yen. When I asked if the price was the same as a ready-to-wear item, I was told that both were handmade, so the labor involved was the same (laughs).

Like this belt, when Hermes uses saddle leather, the fluffy side is on the front and the smooth side is on the back. Do you know why? It is to avoid damaging the horse's skin as much as possible. I was also moved by his "love" for horses.

John Lobb - Shoes

About 2020

The collection was created by Paula Gervase, artistic director of John Robb. . They look tough but are surprisingly lightweight.

Are the shoes you prepared from "John Robb"?

Kurino: This is the last collection of Paula Gervase, the first artistic director of John Robb, in her last term. . I got them on rue Francois, behind the Champs-Elysées in Paris. This model was wrapped with a reverse welt and had a meaty sole. . They looked heavy to look at, but when I picked them up, they were surprisingly light.

I was told that Paula wrote down all the parts and weighed each one. . and then he cut down where he could with the modern lifestyle in mind. Shoemakers value classic methods. That is commendable, but it is also good to have an approach that is not bound by such preconceived notions. Paula's lighthearted thinking is what I'm so impressed with. This is another respect buy.

Although there are signs that the Corona has finally come to an end, the war in Ukraine has deepened into a quagmire, and the world situation is still unstable. Under such circumstances, it seems that there are people who feel uncomfortable about enjoying and talking about fashion.

Kurino: With the Corona, Germany was the first country to protect its cultural facilities (in 2020, the "German Federal Government" decided to apply the emergency support quota of 50 billion euros (about 6 trillion yen) for microenterprises and self-employed people to the arts and culture area, which attracted worldwide attention.) . It was undeniably a wise decision. . I believe that it is precisely in times like these that culture, including fashion, is becoming more important.

You have explained the reason for this in your book, "Wearing clothes is a way of life. He says, "Because to wear is to live (omission), and to wear is to deepen mutual communication and understanding.

The Rolex that Mr. Kurino was wearing at the time of the interview was a gift from his father-in-law 40 years ago, and came back to him as a memento after his death five years ago. The Rolex was a gift from his father-in-law 40 years ago, and it was returned to Mr. Kurino as a memento after his death five years ago. It embodies timelessness.

To be continued...

This feature will be updated on an irregular basis in the future.
The first time I focused on people,
Watches, brand planning, etc,
We aim to provide a guideline for the selection of products.
We will create articles from multiple angles.

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