In this report, we had the opportunity to visit two factories. One is "KAIHARA," one of the world's leading denim fabric manufacturers. The other is "Nishie Denim," which is a professional in a number of processes including washing.
Our first stop was KAIHARA, which weaves TANAKA's original selvedge denim.
Currently, the company has four production facilities in Hiroshima Prefecture, with a domestic market share of about 50% and exports to about 30 countries, making it a veritable denim giant. If you are interested in fashion, you may be interested in "Kaihara Denim. If you are interested in fashion, you have probably heard the name "Kaihara Denim" at least once.
At the factory we visited this time, TANAKA's special-order fabrics are being woven, but we were unable to show you the whole picture. In short, it is a trade secret. The original looms are modified and manufactured according to specifications not found anywhere else, and the production process itself is a secret from the public.
Although it probably has the largest number of looms of any Japanese company (three floors), TANAKA's selvedge denim is woven on old-fashioned shuttle looms. For efficiency, there are now various types of looms such as water jet looms, air jet looms, rapier looms, and slouser looms, but "TANAKA" chose selvedge denim with a vintage feel.
We are recalling the origins of denim and trying to recreate the mood and emotion of that time. It is not because it is a selvedge, or because it is difficult to produce in large numbers, but because there is a clear reason for it.
THE JEAN TROUSERS
TANAKA's signature denim is inspired by vintage styles, but designed with the concept of "denim that can be worn like trousers. Premium Kaihara selvedge denim is used, and the wide leg and slightly deeper inseam create a well-balanced relaxed fit. Price: ¥28,930
NEW CLASSIC JEAN JACKET
This denim jacket is made of premium selvedge denim manufactured by "KAIHARA" just like the pants. It features a slightly loose, boxy silhouette, and the pleats on the front and the rivets that fasten the pockets are reinforced and also accentuate the design. ¥52,800
THE STRAIGHT JEAN TROUSERS
These denim pants have a clean silhouette and fit, with twisted lines created by patternmaking and cutting. The natural, unobtrusive finish is the result of "Nishie Denim". 38,060 yen
Mr. Kuboshita, you are involved with "TANAKA" in the position of creative director, but what do you actually do?
Kuboshita:To put it very simply, I do everything except the work that Sayori (Tanaka) does (laughs).
Tanaka:That's true (laughs). (Laughs.) I am more of a sensual person, so I have Mr. Kuboshita look at my work more calmly. I feel that you are the guardian deity of TANAKA.
I feel that the two of you must have a very good balance and relationship when I see the conversation between the two of you.
Tanaka:Yes, that's right. Mr. Kuboshita has a very creative side, not only in terms of graphics, He also helps me to formulate concepts, which I am not able to verbalize well. He is really responsible for various aspects of the project.
It is truly creative direction.
Kuboshita:We are also very much involved in production. Like in this case, we have meetings with the factory, and we do a lot of the details ourselves, I think this is one of the reasons we have been able to keep prices down to what they are today. Of course, TANAKA's clothes are not cheap, but we don't want to make them so expensive that people think they can't afford them, so we do what we can to make them more affordable.
I frequently asked questions of the factory staff.
Kuboshita:I try to ask them quite penetratingly. So they probably don't like me (laughs).
Communication is based on trust, isn't it?
Kuboshita:Exactly. We have been honest with them and they have given us the whole story in a nutshell.
KAIHARA has established an integrated production system that handles not only the weaving machine but also all processes of denim fabric production. This time, we were able to see the spinning process from raw cotton to yarn.
One of the main characteristics of TANAKA's denim is the use of recycled cotton mixed with fallen cotton in the weft (weft). Fallen cotton is literally the cotton that has fallen out after removing debris and waste from the cotton. This is then turned into recycled cotton.
Incidentally, fallen cotton is used in the weft yarn 30%. Considering the strength and quality, it is said to be the best, but there is not a trace of roughness in the finished yarn in a bad sense.
We do what we can without compromising quality and design. That is what makes TANAKA sustainable.
While the fiber length of regular cotton is about 1.5 inches, recycled cotton is around 1 inch.
2023SS LOOK
The official look of "TANAKA" is just wonderful, isn't it?
Tanaka:Thank you very much. For the past few seasons, I have had Mr. Jiro Konami take my pictures. Mr. Konami's photographs add a different color to "TANAKA.
Kuboshita:Yes, I agree. You cut it from a totally different perspective. I also think it's simply cool.
I think the 20FW season is the first session, how did it start?
Tanaka:We had a mutual friend, artist Reki Yamaguchi, and that's how we got in touch.
Recently, we have been using Mr. Onami's photographs on T-shirts and hoodies.
Tanaka:Yes, it is. I like it very much. Some people say, "Is the visual a little menswear-like? I've been told that the visual is a bit menswear-ish. TANAKA is a unisex brand, and I hope that our highly sensitive female customers will also pick up our products, including the street-style feel.
It goes without saying, but visuals are important. I think the reason why the appeal of "TANAKA" is not one-dimensional lies in the emotional look that Mr. Onami captures. The pictures he takes are exciting, aren't they?
Next, we visited Nishie Denim, an established business for over 60 years that handles all processing for TANAKA's denim items.
Pipes run underground through the site, and the water goes around the plant, where it is purified over a 24-hour period.
Among the various processes we perform, our water recycling facilities have reached the ultimate level. As you know, denim processing requires large amounts of water. This is one of the reasons why people say that the apparel industry is destroying the environment.
Dirt and organic matter are fed to bacteria, which break them down. Bacteria have been present in the plant since it was built, and they are said to be resistant to chlorine and other chemicals.
Saihe Denim" has its own filtration system in place and uses purified recycled water to process denim. This unique circulation system drastically reduces water use by not releasing sewage and not using new water. This is what true sustainability is all about.
Data have proven that purified water is cleaner than tap water.
We have continued to add equipment to the facility to get to where we are now, but they can no longer build this level of drainage equipment because they say they can no longer get a permit for it.
I think denim is a very important item for "TANAKA," but it is completely different from so-called denim brands. I think that's what makes it interesting. Did you become deeply involved in denim when you started working at UNIQLO?
Tanaka:That's right. When I was at UNIQLO, I was once in charge of denim designers. In the latter half of my career, I was not only in charge of denim, but I was also the leader of women's woven fabrics in general.
What were you doing at Yohji Yamamoto before that?
Tanaka:I was mainly in charge of men's knitwear and cut and sewn. Therefore, I have been involved in all kinds of projects.
You also liked denim.
Tanaka:Yes, I do. Also, when I joined UNIQLO, it was the right time to strengthen our denim lineup. So I was asked, "You always wear denim, so how would you like to be in charge of denim? I was asked if I wanted to be in charge of denim. Since the timing was such, many denim industry professionals became involved with UNIQLO, and among them were Kaihara and Nishie Denim.
I see. So that is where you learned about denim and its production background. TANAKA's denim is made by following the essential aspects of denim production and keeping a distance from so-called "heritage" production methods, isn't it?
Tanaka:That may be so. I have recently been taking a more design-oriented approach to denim, such as incorporating the shape of trousers without using the denim pattern. Japanese indigo colors and selvedges are very distinctive, and when they are finished by Nishie Denim, they have a cool, authentic denim look that is the very essence of "Japanese denim. But at TANAKA, we wanted to add something else to the denim that would give it an essence. But we wanted to add something else to the denim, something that could be worn in everyday life, I think that mixing things up in this way is the TANAKA way. In the future, I would like to go beyond manufacturing and create styles. I want to create a style that goes beyond monozukuri (manufacturing), and say, "This TANAKA denim fits the style of this era.
THE WORK JEAN TROUSERS
New work jeans designed as a modern interpretation of functional work pants. They feature a wide leg and a slightly deeper crotch for a well-balanced, relaxed fit. The raw white color, which is undyed and bleached to bring out the color and texture of the cotton itself, becomes softer and more comfortable as you wear them. Price: ¥32,780
UNFINISHED JEAN TROUSERS (RIGID BLACK)
Both warp and weft yarns are black to create a deep black color. The contrast between the neat image brought about by the pleats and the deep, wild black denim is interesting. Another key feature is the cut-off design of the waist. 31,680 yen
A special beard stand for "TANAKA. It is difficult to say that not just anyone can do it with this.
Precise and detailed processing is the result of manual work by skilled craftsmen. The delicate precision of the work is the key to the final result, and cannot be mechanized.
TANAKA has complete confidence in the staff at Nishie Denim, and they are able to convey most of the basics of the denim without having to exhaustively explain them. The fact that they have known each other for 15 years may have something to do with the fact that they are able to accurately grasp onomatopoeic nuances such as "a bit sharper" or "sharper".
We also attended a meeting held in a conference room at the plant to discuss the processing of a special order.
Since the labor charge varies in detail depending on the location of the foil application, the processing method, and other factors, the exchange was very serious. It is normal to seriously weigh both creation and business to find the right balance, but in the case of "TANAKA," I felt that creation came first, but in a good way.
At these meetings, technical discussions are held, including what can and cannot be done, and proposals are then made to the stores.
TANAKA's clothes are sold in many countries, but do the popular items change from country to country?
Kuboshita:What sells well is still totally different. In Europe, white denim fabric is popular. They want a clean look.
Tanaka:Japan seems to be an echo of design denim-like products.
Kuboshita:Simple things sell better in Europe.
Tanaka:Perhaps because there are so many brands in Japan, there is a feeling of wanting something differentiated somewhere.
In terms of 22FW,down jacketI thought it was very catchy.
Tanaka:Thank you very much. That down was quite popular.
Kuboshita:The shape is basic and easy to use. But it has a gimmick, something a little different from the others. I think it's good that it looks familiar, but not familiar at all.
That's exactly what "TANAKA" is all about, isn't it? Every item seems to have an image of how to twist basics.
By the way, what is the significance of the metal fittings on TANAKA items?
Kuboshita:TANAKA is a punk brand, so they wear razors.
Tanaka:In fact, I also have a punk spirit inside me (laughs).
I see. It is used by the military for personal identification of soldiers, isn't it?
Tanaka:I found it at a vintage store, and it is probably more than 100 years old. The fact that it is metal and will not return to the earth is similar to the idea behind the "TANAKA" brand.
It's "clothes that will weave the next 100 years," isn't it?
Tanaka:Yes, I am using the word "ayes" in the sense that this dog tag will remain even if it is torn to pieces 100 years from now.
Kuboshita:It's a way of leaving a mark on the times. That's what it means. But with a razor, it would be a cut (laughs).
That's a good point (laughs).
Kuboshita:By the way, the inside cutout is actually "TANAKA.
The one-of-a-kind necklace Tanaka wears around her neck is also a new item from "TANAKA" for SS23.
THE WORK JEAN TROUSERS" are the pants Mr. Kuboshita was wearing on this day. The soft fabric and details such as rivets and double knees create a gap between the two.
Your brand is still based in New York, right?
Tanaka:Yes, the company is located in New York. We are also making products mainly in Japan, so the brand is "Between NewYork and Tokyo".
I see. I look forward to seeing more creations that flexibly incorporate the good points of both cities and diverse stimuli. Finally, I would like to ask you about your future plans.
Kuboshita:I still want to do some kind of presentation or show. I would like to have more opportunities for people to see my work. I would also like to open our own store someday. We would like to express our own view of the world of "TANAKA.
Tanaka:For example, in that store, I would like to have all denim jackets from size XXXS to size L. If we could deliver the brand's original world view.
That's a good idea. TANAKA's clothes are graded irregularly to fit both men and women, so it would be interesting to compare them all.
Tanaka:That's right. Each size is made in a completely different way.
Kuboshita:I would also like to sell furniture. Rather than ending with clothes, I would like to propose a lifestyle.
I'm looking forward to it. Please open a store in Japan, too! I am looking forward to it.
Kuboshita:Yes, we are. The U.S. would probably be a good place to start, but we are not too set on that, so we may build one in Japan.
Thus, we unraveled TANAKA's creations through a visit to a production factory and an interview with the two designers.
We hope you now have a better understanding of the reason for the coexistence of a timeless, carefully crafted background and an arty, punkish mood.
Now that TANAKA has won the "TOKYO FASHION AWARD 2023," we will continue to pay attention to their every move, which will open up a new world in the future.
