FEATURE | TIE UP

Translated By DeepL

New inspirations born from fragrance.
Inspired by LE LABO

New inspirations born from fragrance.

Scent is a very personal thing. It can be a mirror that impresses us, it can change our mood, or it can evoke memories of the past. So, what kind of inspiration do creators receive from such scents, and what do they envision? This is the story of three creators living in Tokyo and the perfumes of "LE LABO" born in New York.

Urban rain and mountain rain.

PROFILE

Fujiki Kumagai
kearny designer

Born in Kanagawa , 1985. After graduating from college, he joined a select store, where he worked in planning, sales, and as a buyer. Fascinated by vintage eyewear, he launched "kearny" in 2013 and opened the long-awaited directly-managed store "sost." in 2021. . He is also the owner of the stores "feet" and "steef" in Yutenji.
Instagram:@fujiki_kumagai

Many of Kearney's frames are made of celluloid, not the more common acetate, aren't they?

Kumagaya:Unlike acetate, which can be laser cut, celluloid frames, which are difficult to process, are handmade by craftsmen who take time and effort to make them. One advantage of celluloid is its firmness, Since there is no need to put a core in the temples, light and soft spectacles can be made. Therefore, they fit well on the face and are not fatiguing to wear.

. It is also functional, isn't it? How about in terms of beauty?

Kumagaya:Originally, celluloid is derived from cotton, which gives it a nice, deep color. . For example, black is like lacquer, the more you polish it, the deeper the color gets.

Kearney's designs are easy to wear and perfect for everyday use.

Kumagaya:. I like classic designs, so I can't and don't want to do anything too eccentric. As for my consciousness, I think the fashion aspect, such as the ease of matching with clothes, is the 50%, and the rest 50% is the practical aspect. I don't know where it comes from, I want to make something good. . That's why we don't put a conspicuous brand logo on them.

The contrast between the poured concrete and reddish-brown fixtures is striking.

Kumagaya:I consulted with an architect I know, but I only had one theme to throw out: how to bring in light, which is important for eyeglasses. The reddish-brown color is plastered with red clay from Gunma Prefecture. . I used a lot of curves in the motif of the glasses, and used Japanese paper for the paper used inside the shelves, and I added Japanese elements in a modest way.

This time, Le Labo selected a perfume called "BAIE 19.

Kumagaya:I was attracted to the concept of expressing "the unique scent that accompanies the first rain after a long period of sunshine. Actually, Kearney also produces an original fragrance. It is not a perfume, but an incense type, and its scent has something to do with rain. When I first visited Fukui Prefecture, where the craftspeople who make Kearney's products are located, I was struck by a downpour of rain, I used the scent of rain in the mountains as a motif for the fragrance. . I personally put it as a reminder to myself not to forget my original intention.

The connection with rain. . Coincidentally, it fits very well.

Kumagaya:But even though it is the same rain, I felt that the rain scent of "BAIE 19" is more urban. I imagine it is because the brand was born in New York. On the other hand, the scent of "Kearney" is more of a mountain rain as a nature scent in the city. . That's the difference between urban rain and nature's rain.

I was asked to style the collection with "BAIE 19" as the inspiration.

Kumagaya:I usually pay attention to where a brand was born, so when I heard that Le Labo was born in New York, the image of rainy New York came to mind. So, I am wearing an M-65 jacket from a brand called "AIR GARMENTS" inside the jacket. This is made of reused airbag material and can handle a little rain. . It is a Japanese brand, but the shape was born in the United States. I thought it would be a good idea to wear clothes of this shape made in Japan and reimported to the U.S.

The 23-character message on the bottle label reads "Rain & Eyewear. Even the glasses you wear have a meaning?

Kumagaya:It is what I use on a regular basis. The color of the lenses has to do with rain, and the color is just right when the sky is overcast, such as in rain. If the visible light transmission is too good, it is too bright, and if it is too dark, it darkens the vision. In general, green and yellow are easier to see on cloudy or rainy days. The color is a mixture of those two colors, originally the color of tea. In fact, even on rainy days, it is better to take UV protection.

So, when you go to New York, where should you go dressed like this?

Kumagaya:. I like jazz, so I would like to go to a jazz bar. There is no dress code for a jazz bar, and it is perfectly fine to dress casually, but I feel like wearing a jacket. I would like to wear a jacket, so I would wear a jacket over it and take off my M-65 when I arrive at the bar. . I have not visited New York yet, but I hope to visit a jazz bar in New York in the rain......and I hope it will happen someday.

[Claire] Le Labo.BAIE 19 ¥25,850[50ml](Le Labo Customer Service Center)
BAIE 19" expressed "the unique scent that accompanies the first rain after a long period of sunshine. Dried juniper berries, known as the scent of gin, smoky sweet patchouli, and fresh green leaves spread out, followed by warm cade and musk. Kumagai's message on the label is "Rain & Eyewear.

INFORMATION

Le Labo Customer Service Center

Home Page
Phone: 0570-003-770

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