HOUYHNHNM

FEATURE|Doublet and WISM, two rising dragons aiming for "Best in the World".

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The 17-18AW collection is finally in stores. It seems like the expectations of those around you are increasing with each passing season.
So, the collection will be in a shop soon, won't it? It seems as if everyone expects more every season.

well fieldWell, nothing has changed for me. I have to win each and every time. It is true that the people around me may have changed, but, yes, I am the same. Even now, I do things thinking that if I mess up once, it will be the end.
InoI just do my best each season. I feel the atmosphere might be changing but not myself. I still think if I make one mistake it might be over.

What kind of brand is "Doublet" for "wizm" now?
What's doublet for WISM?

moatIt is a brand that makes customers smile when they buy it. We started carrying the brand not because we think it has good taste or is trendy, but because we originally wanted to wear it ourselves. I feel that this desire is gradually being conveyed to our customers. The reason why we made special orders last time and this time is because we wanted to make it easier for people who wanted to buy or wanted to buy "Doublet" to buy our products. Inlines are not inexpensive.
HorikeTo be honest, I started to work with doublet because I wanted to wear it. It doesn't matter to me what taste a customer has or what kind of trend is up right now. And I feel the customer is starting to understand how I feel towards doublet. The reason why we made pre-order items in the last and current season is that we wanted to supply something that works for doublet and for the customer on both sides. Actually inline items are not always reasonable.

I see.
I see.

moatThen, this spring/summer season, our inline items sold very well. This was a miscalculation in a good way. Of course, some people are paying in installments because it is an expensive purchase. But everyone is happy to have been able to buy them. They look like they are ready to work hard tomorrow because they bought expensive clothes. It is true that there are some people who buy because they are rare. But I can tell when I see customers off. I think that the people who buy "Doublet" are the ones who are happy to have bought it, and who think, "I'll do my best tomorrow.
HorikeIn fact, we sold quite a few inline items from this spring/summer collection we weren't expecting. It's expensive and some people were paying in monthly instalments, but everyone looked happy to purchase them and I think the clothes make them feel good to go back to work. Doublet makes people happy or give them power.

The staff at "Wism" all like "Doublet" too.
The staff working in WISM likes doublet as well, right?

moatThat's right. Everyone is putting their heart and soul into serving customers, and it is taking shape, isn't it? It's like a whirlpool, a swell.
HorikeEveryone works with pride, so it creates a good atmosphere for everyone.

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Conversely, what is "wism" from your point of view, Mr. Ino?
What is WISM for you, Mr. Ino?

well fieldIt's kind of pleasant, isn't it? When I go to the store and talk with the staff, they are all very friendly. I feel comfortable in such a place, and I want to go there again and again. As a designer, it is a great pleasure to have my clothes lined up in such a store. It is also a store that is very close to me.
InoWhen I visit the shop and talk to the staff, they are so positive. The place makes me want to come back again. As a designer, it is such an honour for me to see my clothes in such a great place.

moatI think that you and Mr. Ino may be becoming a bit like a family. We resonate with each other first of all as people, rather than as work, and I think this has led to a sense of comfort and a good distance between us. Also, we can talk to each other because we both have the goal of being the "Best in the World. Best in the World" stores, "Best in the World" brands. We have to aim for that, because it is becoming a global standard.
HorikeWe like each other as people and that's what gives us a good distance and In addition, we have the same goal; 'BEST in the WORLD' as a shop, 'BEST in the WORLD We are heading for a world wide standard.

well fieldFamily is probably close to it. You don't often think about why you have a family. Wism" is like that. Just being there is comfortable.
InoYou don't question why you have a family. WISM is a bit like that. It's just there and makes me feel good.

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Can I also ask you about the 17AW collection that will be in stores from now on? What kind of collection is it again?
At last, can I ask about the 17AW collection?

well fieldFirst of all, we are using the inspirational theme (of the drama series) "Minors".
InoThe theme is based on the TV drama "Miseinen.

Coincidentally, the special order T-shirt was "Lombake" and the season's underlying theme was "Minors.
Funnily enough the pre-order made T-shirt is based on "Long Vacation" (TV drama) and the main theme of the season is "Miseinen" (TV drama).

well fieldYes, that's right. It's close in age, since "Minors" was released in 1995 and "Lombake" in 1996. I was interested in that period. The good thing about "Minors" is that the main characters are all different, including a thug, a serious kid, and an otaku, but when you look at them as a group, they are all cool. I thought so when I was in high school. I decided to make a film based on those thoughts and feelings. When I look at it again now, it's really good as a drama.
InoMiseinen" was made in 1995 and "Long Vacation" was made in 1996, so the year of origin is quite close. I was interested in this period of history. What's good about "Miseinen" is that there are various characters in the story such as punks, normal people and nerds, but when they are together they look cool. At least I felt so, when I was I was a high school student. I wanted to expressed it in my way. And also the story is actually very well made.

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Do you have a particular favorite?
Do you have any favourite character?

well fieldAfter all, it is Issei Ishida, isn't it?
Ino: Issey Ishida.

moatI am Takashi Sorimachi after all (laughs).
HorikeI like Takashi Sorimachi.

Sorimachi wore a satin shirt with a terrotero satin shirt, with the buttons open.
Takashi Sorimachi was wearing a satin shirt with an open chest.

well fieldThat's right. I thought, "We have a satin scajan, too. I thought, "This is Sorimachi! I thought (laughs).
InoThat's right. we have a satin sukajan and that reminds me a lot of him. (laughter)

Is there something about Kawai Gamon?
Is there anything inspired from Gamon Kawai (another actor in "Miseinen").

well fieldKawai Gamon is, is it a shirt?
InoI'm not sure if it's a shirts...maybe shirts...

moatNo, no, there is only about one type of shirt. You're talking nonsense again (laughs).
HorikeWe have only one type of shirts. You are making it up. (laughter)

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well fieldI thought Deku-chan (Shingo Katori) was the one who made the sweatshirts with "USA" broken up.
InoThe jersey with a broken USA logo is inspired from Deku-chan (actor:Shingo Katori).

The "Minors" is an inspirational theme, and there's also a theme on the front, another one.
So, "Miseinen" was an inspiration and you have a concept for this season as well, haven't you?

well fieldYes, I am. The theme is "BE IN (VIN)TAGE". By the way, the ending theme of "Minors" is "I Need To Be In Love" (Japanese title: Seishun no Shine).
InoIn addition, the ending song in "Miseinen" was "I Need To Be In Love" (Japanese translation of "Miseinen"). In addition, the ending song in "Miseinen" was "I Need To Be In Love" (Japanese translation of Seisyun no kagayaki)

You're pulling me in (laughs).
So inspired!

moatYou love it already (laughs).
HorikeHe loves it. (laughter)

well fieldSeriously speaking, this drama is about 20 years old. 20 years ago, for example, is the age when wine is completely called vintage. In other words, I think the word "vintage" is becoming more familiar now.
InoSeriously, this TV drama was made 20 years ago. If it's wine, it would be called vintage. That's why Vintage is more close and familiar for us.

That's true. In our generation, there was a saying that you had to be from a certain age to be called "vintage," or that it was regular.
In my generation, we had more strict regulations for using the word "vintage". People say, it's not vintage, it's regular or something like that.

well fieldThat's right. In such a situation, I hope that the clothes I am making now will still be around in 20 years, or even 50 years from now.
InoI hope my clothes will be loved in 20 or even 50 years later.

Why is there so much attention being paid to the 1990s now?
Why the 90's?

moatI think it's simply because people of that generation are getting into those roles.
Horike:Simply because the 90's generation is leading the market at the moment, I think.

Do you mean that you are often in a central position in manufacturing?
You mean a lot of influential people grew up in the 90's?

moatThat's right. However, the way we express ourselves is different from others. Everyone is a bit cool and says "Back to 90's." No one says "Rombake" or "Minors" (laughs). No one says "Lombake" or "Minors" (laughs).
Horike:Yes, some people are just calling for "Back to the 90's", but no one is saying "Long Vacation "Long Vacation" or "Miseinen". (laughter)

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It is true that we tend to focus on something foreign. The fact that you chose to focus on a Japanese work this time is novel, but you also chose to make a drama series instead of a movie (laughs). (Laughs.) That is definitely a new point of view.
In fact, often people are focusing on the what the 90's looked like abroad. story, especially in TV programs, not films.

moatThis time, when I was making the release for the special-order T-shirts, "Rombake" and "Minors" came in, and I couldn't keep track of them anymore. The most difficult part of this project was making this release (laughs).
Horike:While I was working on the pre-order made T-shirt, we had new orders coming in for "Long Vacation" and "Miseinen ". This was pretty hard work for us.

well fieldThis time, it just so happens to be connected to a drama, but what is important to me when making clothes is that I make clothes that I have worn in real life. I never lie about what I thought was really cool. But of course, I don't just make the clothes as they are. I have come full circle, so I decided to take advantage of what I have experienced so far and give form to my thoughts at that time once again.
InoWhat's the most important thing in designing clothes, is to start from what I used to wear, and it also happens to be connected to the TV drama this time. I am excited to be inspired from the clothes I used to wear because I loved them. Of course I need to make it better than what I used to wear though.

So in each season, we get a glimpse into Mr. Ino's past.
So we could get a peep into your fashion by looking into the past for this season?

well fieldYes, I did. There was a time when I was in high school, and for the collection that I pushed through (16-17AW), I was inspired by the styles I wore when I was in my first year of technical school. Which era I choose is what I'm in the mood for at the time.
InoMainly from my high school age. When I made the big break through show (C16-17AW), I looked at what I was wearing in 1st grade in fashion college. Which period I choose is depending on my mood.

How did you come to that style of manufacturing?
How did you develop your working style?

well fieldWhen I try to create something from scratch, I end up trying to make it look stylish. It's more like I'm trying my best to make it.
Ino: If I try to make something from scratch, I try too hard.

If you try too hard, you will get gutted again (laughs).
If you work too hard, you might be told off again?

well fieldThat's right. So, my current approach is to base my ideas on the style I liked and add something humorous as an extra.
Ino: Yes, that's it. I prefer to add to what I used to like wearing myself.

I like the path of manufacturing without hesitation. I think it is strong and simple. However, you must have had a lot of trouble getting there, didn't you?
That's sounds very solid and clear. It is very simple and strong.

well fieldYes, I do. I am very slow in designing. I push myself to the limit.
Ino: Yes. I am very slow with designing because I try until I reach my limit.

You must be exhausted.
Isn't it exhausting?

well fieldI am. People around me say that I could do a lot more things if I could come up a little earlier.
Ino: Yes, it is. Often people want me to finish early so I can do more other stuff.

You are by no means a dexterous person.
Not so clever, are you?

well fieldI think it is far-fetched and clumsy.
Ino: Definitely, I'm clumsy.

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moatSurprisingly, however, I don't really see it that way. What I find amazing about this person is that while he creates things with great passion, he also looks at his own brand in a very objective way.
HorikeIno has an amazing passion, but at the same time he sees his brand with distance.

I understand a little. There's a sense of calm and watching your feet.
I know what you mean. He stands on the earth.

moatYes, I do. Because of that, it is easy for me to talk to him. I don't think he is doing it in a calculated way, but I can trust him because I know that he is calmly looking at his own brand from the exact opposite side.
HorikeThat's why it's easy to talk to him and trust him.

Are you aware of that?
Are you aware of it, Mr. Ino?

well fieldYes, it is. It is a normal thought.
Ino:Yes, that sounds quite normal for me.

In other words, that is already Yutaka Takenouchi.
Thats is Yutaka Takenouchi, aren't you?

Ino & HorieBetween Calm and Passionate" (laughs).
Ino&Horike: "Reisei to Jyonetsu no Aida" (some other MOVIE program). (laughter)

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well fieldAs for what we are making, we put a lot of heat into it. I believe that if I don't put it in, it won't reach you. I ask myself over and over again, "Is this really OK? I ask myself, "Is this really OK? I don't want to compromise on that. But when it is finished, it is already objective. I think about what people will think when they see it, and how it will appear to others.
InoOtherwise it's not going anywhere. I am questioning myself again and again until the end. I don't want to compromise but when it comes to the stage of being a product, I am quite objective. I don't 'want' to compromise but when it comes to the stage of being a product, I am quite objective.

The other strength of the brand is that it possesses a high level of technology when it comes to the realization of the humorous elements that we talked about earlier. It is not just a matter of momentum; we do not just print interesting graphics on T-shirts, parkas, and caps and call it a day. I think the greatest appeal of "Doublet" is the coexistence of momentum, humor, and technology.
Also, coming back to what we talked about earlier, the strength of your products is in adding high quality to the humorous design by using technology. The appeal of doublet is this co-existence of idea, humour and quality, not just printed on T-shirts, hoodies, caps.

well fieldMaybe it is because I have been designing small items for a long time. Shoes are the same, but basically they have a fixed shape. T-shirts also have a fixed shape. T-shirts also have a certain shape, so it's not just a matter of putting a print on it, but what can you do with it?
InoShoes, T-shirts, they already have a format. I keep challenging not only printing but also how to add an idea to make the whole format look different. I keep challenging not only printing but also how to add an idea to make the whole format look different.

moatI see. Well, this may be the first time we have talked so properly (laughs).
HorikeI see. this might be the first time to talk to you properly. (laughter)

well fieldYes.
Ino:It is.

I think it was a valuable dialogue, really.
This is valuable time.

moatAs for ourselves, we will just do our best to present what we think is interesting at the moment. We have a lot of things in store for this pop-up as well. For example, we have asked the musician who did the music for the "Doublet" show to create a soundtrack that will be played in the store during the pop-up. In my mind, this song is the one that I think of when I think of "Dovelet. It is the theme song for Tetsuya Naito, a professional wrestler.
HorikeWe are preparing a few surprises in this pop up shop. For example, we asked the musician who made songs for the doublet to make some new background music for the pop up shop as well. I have a key song for doublet, which is a theme song for a professional wrestler; Tetsuya Naito.

moatPlease definitely include this song! I'm asking you to please put it in. When this song comes on, I go "ooooh!
HorikeI already asked to include this song in the music selection.It makes me so excited!

People who don't know about it are a bit piqued, though (laughs).
I feel pity for people who don't know this song.

moatThe person who made the soundtrack for this project is also a pro-wrestling fan. I felt sympathy for him.
HorikeHe had a great understanding of what we like.

I understand that such a pop-up store will start on Saturday, July 15.
The pop up shop will open from 15th of July.

moatYes, we do. From the very beginning, there will be a lineup of special order T-shirts and inline items. It's the middle of summer, but we also have things you can buy and wear right away.
Horike:Yes, there will be pre-order T-Shirts and inline products. There will be summer stuff as well, which you can wear straight away.

The timing of the start-up is very early.
This timing seems quite an early start.

moatYes, we are. We are rather ahead of our competitors. We hold exhibitions overseas, so we have almost all of our products available at this time. So, we are positioned as a collection brand.
HorikeSince we already had a show abroad, products are ready to go by now. Therefore, our position could be called a collection brand.

That's going to happen, isn't it?
That's right.

moatThis pop-up store is a mixture of what Mr. Ino wants to do, what I want to do, the staff's desire to introduce "Doublet" to everyone, and many other things. I am sure it is all mixed up in a good way. But I hope people will enjoy it.
HorikeThis pop up shop is full of what Mr. Ino wants to do, what I want to do and also our staff, who want to introduce doublet. It will be a chaotic space in a good way.

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WISM Shibuya
Address: 5-17-20 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Hours: 11:30 - 20:00 (Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun), 11:30 - 20:30 (Wed, Fri, Sat, eve of national holidays)
Phone: 03-6418-5034
wism-tyo.jp/

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