Inheriting the DNA of surfing, we move on to the next path.
As mentioned at the beginning of this article, "Magic Number" has been led by Mr. Ryu Nakamura for many years, but Mr. Umezu will take over as the new director from 2024. He has been involved with numerous brands, working on designs and patterns, and we wonder what direction the brand will take under his direction. Here we trace the future of denim and the brand through an interview with Mr. Umezu.
About Denim setup
This is the first "Made in Japan" denim item for "Magic Number" in about three years. Japan denim items. The past masterpieces are expressed in the "magic number" style with modern sizing, and reconstructed in a timeless yet contemporary silhouette. Two colors are available: "INDIGO" and "VINTAGE Sales will start on February 21 (Fri.).
Q. When will the items that you worked on as director be released?
Umetsu: Deliveries begin in February 2025, and the season starts in spring/summer 2025.
Please tell us about the changes that have taken place since you became director.
Umetsu: In the past, I have been entrusted with most of the work, but from now on I will be in charge of the season's theme and concept as well. However, the founder is still Nakamura.
You have not changed the brand's identity, which is to create products that give a sense of the sea, have you?
Umetsu: It has not changed. We are not an ordinary apparel brand; our backbone is surfing, so how do we show that or hide it? I think it is my job to adjust the amount of that through design.
And the denim set-up is symbolic of the collection for which you are the new director, isn't it?
Umetsu: Yes, I am. I wondered what would happen if a brand with a strong image as a "side-riding" brand were to seriously make a denim set-up. I thought we could definitely make something good, and I also thought we could take a different approach from other brands. I had made denim pants a few years ago, but this was my first time making a set-up.
Was it one of your specialties to make the products in Kojima, Okayama?
Umetsu: The town has been manufacturing denim products for more than half a century, so there is plenty of skill and know-how in this area. That is why I thought I could give shape to what I was trying to do, and I myself used to work for an OEM company headquartered in Kojima, so that connection also made it possible.
Umetsu: This is just my personal feeling, but there are many areas in Japan where textiles are flourishing, and I think Kojima has an environment where American-style clothes can be made. For example, while the Tohoku region is known for its delicate craftsmanship, Kojima is known for its openness and ruggedness.
Thank you very much. Now, please tell us about your denim obsession.
Umetsu: In any case, we paid close attention to every detail. To ensure uniform puckering, the stitch widths for both the jacket and pants are the same, down to the needle count. For sewing, we used several different types of machine for the winding stitches.
How about the jacket?
Umetsu: The thong back is one of the features seen in G-jans from the 1940s to around the 1960s, and is a detail of Levi's first type. However, we have incorporated the second type of Levi's as a base. The pockets that would normally be placed high are lowered a little so that they can be used in place of the chest pockets.
The silhouette has been adjusted to a wider body width and a perfect length for compatibility with shorts. It can be worn in two ways, as it becomes a balloon silhouette if you have the cinch back cinched.
I feel the surf element in the way it is designed to be worn with shorts. How about pants?
Umetsu: The pants have hidden rivets driven into the sides of the hip pockets for strength. In this way, we wanted to pay as much attention to detail as possible. The time-consuming sewing process is only possible thanks to Kojima's skilled craftsmen and their sewing machines. Neova buttons and rivets are also originally made.
The silhouette is also very distinctive.
Umetsu: As for pants, they look fat at first glance, but when you try them on, the waist is just right, but the hips and crotch are wide. With vintage pants, you have to choose a larger size to get the silhouette you want, but with our denim, if you normally wear a 32-inch pair, you can get the ideal silhouette by wearing a 32-inch pair. The center line is also shifted outward, making the pattern look as if the legs are spread apart. So, if you want to tie them to the ocean, they are designed to be easy to straddle on a motorcycle or beach cruiser.
The ounces are nice, not too thick and not too thin.
Umetsu: It is 13.5 oz. This thickness can be worn all year round and is less likely to cause stress.
I heard that there are two color variations this time, and that each color has its own wash.
Umetsu: I gave my archives to the factory to get closer to my image, but I did not want to put beards on either of them. I also wanted the vintage-washed model I am wearing today to look as close to authentic vintage as possible, so I asked the factory to pinpoint and fine-tune the color fading. I requested that the color fade be as natural as possible.
I have the impression that denim set-ups are a bit of a challenge, but the colors and silhouettes of the "Magic Number" set-ups are tuned to the modern age, so I can wear them without any hesitation.
Umetsu: I think it is precisely because it is still so interesting. Up until now, "Magic Number" has been conservative in design, aiming for the greatest common denominator, including color choices. From now on, however, I would like to add my own essence and create something a little more radical.
