What is the New Vintage anyway?
In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
The seventh installment is once again Takashi Aoki of SIESTA.
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Takashi Aoki / Owner of SIESTA
Vol.7_L.L.Bean's nylon jackets and nylon coats
-What are some of the new vintage items you will be introducing this time?
L.L BEAN" is one of the brands that we have been dealing with as a standard item for a long time.
-It's a major player in the used clothing industry, but can you still find interesting things?
It is true that the brand boasts a history of more than 100 years since its establishment in 1912, and some items are sold at high prices in the vintage market, but what I find interesting is the beanies from the 1980s onward. In those days of mass production, we expanded the scope of our genre, and as a result, we made a lot of things that had nothing to do with the outdoors (laughs). (Laughs). Even now, the vintage market is not interested in them at all, and that is why you can still find items that no one has ever seen before. I think that's what makes it interesting from a New Vintage point of view.
-I see. But how is it possible to find rare individuals that no one has ever seen, when they were supposedly mass-produced?
Elle Bean nylon jacket ¥25,000+TAX(Siesta)
Perhaps they are just sitting on the market. For example, this one, which I guess is an item from the 80's, has a corduroy collar, the look of the material, and the design. It's a "Bidail" by "Barbour" (laugh). Yes, it's cool, but at the price of secondhand clothing, one would be tempted to choose the original. That's why they were not selected until now. It is not impossible that some of these items were discontinued in one season because they did not sell well, and I think they were buried under the mountain of such items. As I mentioned in the third article, people who choose secondhand clothes tend to think that they are "good because they don't look like anyone else," so in that sense, they are probably a good target as well.
-A good product for those in the know.
Frankly speaking, you could just buy a "BABUA," but there are still those who are not so keen on that, and I can imagine that this product was born through the filter of the Americans. The difference is that it is made of cotton and nylon instead of waxed cotton. The chest switch and pocket flap are also differences. The other difference is the "vertical pockets," which is a standard Bean detail. Above all, I like the sense of American-inspired lining. If this were in England, I would have chosen a tartan check, but the American look of the flannel is a very nice touch.
-At a quick glance, it looks completely like "Babur," doesn't it?
Yes, yes. When I wear something and someone says, "That [BABUR] is nice," I want to reply, "No, it's actually a bean" (laughs). Polo Ralph Lauren also specializes in a similar approach, but they tweak their clothes from a fashion point of view, changing fabrics and combining details. On the other hand, I have the impression that Bean updates from a practical point of view to satisfy the itch of "this is how I want it to be.
-It's localized and better, isn't it? And the other one is a similar material, but a bit more shiny coat type. This one also has a somewhat déjà vu design and is available at .......
Elle Bean nylon coat ¥35,000+TAX(Siesta)
This one must also be inspired by "Game Fair" by "Babur" (lol). 80's made in the U.S., but this is seriously the first time I've seen it! It's in beautiful condition, so you can tell that the previous owner took good care of it. One of Bean's appeals is that "it doesn't look like that even if you have the whole body together." The brand logo on this one is embroidered in the same color, and the buttons are engraved with the brand name, which is also a good self-contradiction (laughs). (Laughs.) This is just right for people who are not good at asserting their logos.
-Albeit, the details are quite elaborate.
The corduroy collar can be made into a stand collar with chin strap, and there are hand pockets & pockets with flaps, so you don't need a bag unless you want to. The lining is the same checkered wool material as the previous jacket, with nylon lining at the lower waist and sleeves. The sleeves are padded with padding. There is a pocket in the part hidden by the wing, and this one is even better than the original (laugh).
-It looks meh and easy to use! I'm suddenly very interested in Bean.
Bean has a number of balls, so when you find your own unique hook, you can enjoy digging all at once. Also, the image is good for women. Especially if you have a family, the fact that your wife won't look at you with disapproval even though you are wearing old clothes is a big factor in surviving as a new vintage (laughs).
Takashi Aoki / Owner, SIESTA
After working at I&I, a popular vintage clothing store in the Jinnan area of Shibuya, he opened SIESTA, a store selling imported and vintage clothing and bicycle parts, on Tonchan-dori in Harajuku. With a selection that evokes the culture of the U.S. West Coast and surrounding areas, the shop has gained a wide range of fans from skaters, cyclists, city boys, and industry professionals. This year marks its 10th anniversary.
Official website:www.siesta81.com
Instagram:@siestastore
