What is the New Vintage anyway?
In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
Now in its fifth season, this Series has been relaunched with new participating stores. The 35th issue features Yoshiyuki KINOYAMA of "NOOK.
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Yoshiyuki KINOYAMA / Owner, NOOK
Vol.35_Alpha Industries' Cold Weather Parka
-What is the new vintage for you?
In our case, we buy items according to our mood at the time, so it is quite difficult to verbalize it. ...... (laughs). I often pick things that I liked or was interested in when I was in high school or college. So, if I were to categorize them as "new vintage," I would say that they are of high quality, but also that they have something "witty" about them that makes me "feel good" about them. I guess it's a regular thing.
-What are the criteria there?
To be honest, I don't care about what items are from what era, or where they are from. Rather, I think that the items should be real clothing that people from a wide range of genres would want to wear in their daily lives. . Therefore, I may be conscious of the ease of collecting items. In order for as many people as possible to enjoy our products, they should be easy to find in the market. The same goes for size.
-And it's more reasonable than the world's market price.
That's right (laughs). (Laughs.) I want to offer the food at a reasonable price for customers who come all the way to our store, which is not famous, as well as for customers who say, "I used to charge this much for the food. I sound like a very nice person, don't I? (Laughs). (laughs) Well, I guess my main desire is to make it accessible to everyone. If we do that, people will be able to try genres that they have never tried before, and they will feel free to try them.
-What items did you select from such a "nook" point of view?
This is a cold-weather parka of "ALPHA INDUSTRIES" made in the 1990's. It is a cotton satin version of the item commonly called "Gore-Tex Parka" as layer 4 of the "ECWCS" layering system developed and adopted by the U.S. Army. It is layer 4 of the layering system "ECWCS" developed and adopted in the U.S. Army, and is a cotton satin version of the item also commonly known as the "Gore-Tex Parka". The Alfa itself is also delivered to the military. Alpha itself is delivered to the military, but this is a civilian version. However, except for the fabric, the quality is almost the same as the original, but this is a relatively new item from the 90s. However, it is not so highly regarded and is not available on ......, probably because it is relatively new in the 90's and is downgraded in terms of functionality. Personally, I think they are easy to wear and I like them very much .
Alpha Industries Cold Weather Parka ¥7,490(Nook)
-. Indeed, the change in fabric makes the woodland camo pattern look a bit softer.
It's just right! Although there are some useful colors such as black, beige, and navy as color variations, the woodland camo is still very appealing. To be honest, in terms of market popularity, the woodland camo is not doing so well. Desert camo, tiger stripe camo, and hunting camo are more popular.
What is the most interesting thing about it as a - thing?
Since it is originally military gear, all the details are functional. Of course, GORE-TEX is more functional, but it is a bit of an exaggeration. On the other hand, cotton satin fabric is lightweight and easy to wear, soft and comfortable to the body, and stress-free. Moreover, you can wash it at home without worrying about the fabric deteriorating, and the more you wear it, the more puckering (bite) will appear on the fabric, so you can enjoy growing it.
-To be honest, I had a strong image of "Alpha Industries" = MA-1, but this one makes me want one.
It's a good thing, isn't it? They may be harder to find than the classic MA-1 or M-65, but that does not mean that they are exhausted, and if you look for them, you can find a few. But that is not to say that they are exhausted. In this day and age, it may be difficult to wear such straightforward military wear in the city. However, the hippies who adopted military wear into fashion in the 1970s did so with an anti-war connotation in mind. Besides, camo prints are cool above all.
-. How do you think it would look with the current situation? How do you think it would look good now?
It can be worn over a street-style sweatshirt set-up, or with a traditional outfit. This jacket is similar to the M-65 field jacket. It can also be worn over a tied-up jacket and shirt.
Yoshiyuki KINOYAMA / Owner, NOOK
After graduating from college, he worked at the skateboard store "Hawk" in Harajuku for about 2 years, then at the vintage clothing stores "LOOP" in Omiya and Nakameguro for a total of 7 to 8 years before going independent in 2011. He opened his own vintage clothing store "NOOK," which moved to a new location a 5-minute walk from Toritsu Daigaku Station in 2015, and is now in its 11th year. The store has many fans among people in the industry and offers good regular vintage clothing and select items that anyone can freely match with their own style, just like a jazz freestyle session.
Official site:ameblo.jp/nooker/
Instagram:@nook_toritsudai
