In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
With all the new stores replaced, this Series is now in its 12th season! The 92nd issue, the last of the first round, features Yoshiyuki KINOYAMA of "NOOK," who has been with us since the 5th season. What new vintages will he introduce?
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Yoshiyuki KINOYAMA / Owner, NOOK
Vol.92_Levi's Slates slacks
It's been a while since your last appearance here, but what are the new vintage items you are introducing this time?
First of all, I must warn you that, as for this story, I have chosen it completely based on the atmosphere of the item alone, so the poop factor is thin (sweat).
No problem at all! So, slacks, huh?
At first glance they look like just slacks, but they are actually Levi's®︎ , and I would like to introduce Slates®︎ , which was a dress and business trouser label from 1980 to the early 2000s.
Levi's ®︎" has a variety of labels, doesn't it? Dockers®︎" also has an image of slacks.
Dockers (®︎) was born as a chinos label offering casual cotton chinos that could be worn to the office, and is now popular as a full line of not only slacks but also chinos, shorts, denim pants, and even tops, and was merged into the In its long history of over 170 years, this line is probably the only one that has made only slacks. The appeal of slacks in general is that they are easy to match and highly versatile. . But that's why the problem that bothers me when I try to find them in used clothing is that there are too many choices.
It is true that there are many aspects of a good pair of slacks, such as the material and silhouette, that are not apparent until you actually hold them in your hands.
It would be nice if we had the confidence to make a choice based solely on our own knowledge and sense, but we don't, so we are in trouble. But since I don't have that knowledge, I'm in trouble. You can rest assured that " Slates ®︎ " is the place to go. However, not all items are good-looking in general, so this is just a good starting point for your selection.
I remember you also had "ACTION SLACKS," didn't you?
In 1964, "Stay Presto (STA-PREST)", commonly known as "Staple", was created as a wrinkle-resistant and practical series by applying a sharp, durable center press to non-denim material. Its successor was the "Action Slacks," which, as the name suggests, are highly athletic slacks, and "Slates ®︎" is a descendant of the Action Slacks, but the Sta-Presto itself is also a current series, which is a complicated story (smiles). . In short, I think it would be better to remember that it led to "Dockers ®︎" from there.
I understand (laughs). Do items found in the market have something in common?
Hmmm . There may be some types with a shallow or narrow crotch in the transitional period, but I have a feeling that the silhouette is basically a loose silhouette with a generous crotch width and a thicker & deeper crotch, perhaps reflecting the era of the 90's. . The basic material is polyester 100%, which does not require ironing. There are also cotton, wool, and rayon blends, as well as no-tuck and two-tuck styles, giving a dressy rather than a stiff impression.
Slacks by Levi's_®︎ Slates_®︎ ¥5,390(Nook)
There are many variations, aren't there? This tag says "CLASSIC FIT" and "STAIN DEFENDER".
The two-tucked, thick, draped silhouette is indeed classic. The material is polyester with viscose rayon, and looks like a stain defender, which is a stain resistant synthetic fiber blend fabric. . This fabric is also seen after the transition to Dockers.
The tag on the other pair is labeled "ORIGINAL FIT. The waist size is large, so it is a little hard to tell, but the leg line is straight with no tuck. This one is made of 100% polyester and has a slightly casual look.
Slacks by Levi's_®︎ Slates_®︎ ¥5,390(Nook)
Recently, there are many young people who wear leather shoes with slacks like this. There was a time when slacks were in fashion, and I think we are seeing a return to that trend.
Yes, there are a lot of them. About 20 years ago, during the hairdressing boom, slacks were very popular, and I used to wear them a lot. As is the case now, leather shoes or "All Star" shoes by Converse were the standard. At that time, many people wore thin, low-rise slacks, but nowadays, the mainstream is to wear loose-fitting, deep-crotch slacks with a tight top. It's easy to look stylish and, more importantly, it's easy to move around in. I myself wear slacks when skating, and they work quite well.
As Mr. Kinoyama says, the versatility of slacks is one of their charms, but how can the adult generation avoid looking like old men when wearing them?
I am painfully aware of my lack of taste, and I have no idea what the correct answer is, but . . it is standard to add a work taste to dressy bottoms, for example, by wearing a chambray shirt and a denim jacket. Similarly, military jackets are also a good choice. Or college sweatshirts and slacks are casual but classy and fashionable. Also, as I have been feeling recently, I think it is very cool to wear a faded or damaged shirt with a casual look.
. If you want to buy some slacks but don't know what to buy, you won't have to worry about it.
I think there are still many people who don't know about this label itself, so it's also a good target for those who don't have anyone to nominate and buy, and for those who want something a little different from the rest of the crowd. However, as I mentioned earlier, it will be merged into "Dockers®︎", so if you can't find "Slates®︎", you can look for slacks with the same groove there, where you can still easily find them. Ah, but that would be a total waste of time.
Yoshiyuki KINOYAMA / Owner, NOOK
After graduating from college, he worked at the skateboard store "Hawk" in Harajuku for about 2 years, then at the vintage clothing store "LOOP" in Omiya and Nakameguro for a total of 7 to 8 years before going independent in 2011. He opened his own used clothing store, "NOOK," and after relocating to a new location a 5-minute walk from Toritsu Daigaku Station in 2015, he is now in his 11th year. The store has many fans among people in the industry and offers good regular vintage clothing and selected items that anyone can freely match with their own style, just like a jazz freestyle session.
Instagram:@nook_toritsudai
Official site:https://ameblo.jp/nooker/
