Keiji Kaneko × Keigo Murakami × Masato Kamieda.
A new back German, evolved by three professionals.

Kaneko: After all, everyone who loves fashion goes through a military thing, don't they? German trainers, in particular, have a high affinity with fashion. Military shoes are often bulky, but these shoes are stylish in both color and shape. You are the one who digs up such things from various countries like you wouldn't believe, aren't you?

Upper branches: That's right. I have been working with German Trainers as a design source for 10 years now, and they are consistently popular.

Murakami: It is simply the most recognizable.

Kaneko: Another important point is that they definitely go with standard men's items. Chinos, jeans, and so on.

Kaneko: The inspiration came from skaters. I saw a skater wearing a sweatshirt inside out and thought it looked great. I had been buying German trainers from France and Germany for about 25 years, but I felt I had seen enough. Then, when Mr. Kamieda's "Reproduction of Found" started to emerge....

Upper branches: I still remember that over lunch, Mr. Kaneko asked me, "Can you make that inside out? I still remember that Kaneko-san asked me over lunch, "Can you make that upside down? It was such a trivial conversation that started Ura-German.

Murakami: The idea is still great, isn't it?

Upper branches: But it was really hard to communicate with the factory. From the factory's point of view, they would say, "Why are you making these shoes inside out? From the shoe factory's point of view, materials used for joints and reinforcement are meant to be hidden, but they didn't understand why we had to show them (laughs).

Kaneko: It's kind of charming to be perfect, but have a glimpse of something that shouldn't be shown in some part. Sometimes it is too beautiful, but sometimes it is too subtle. In that sense, I thought I had created a very good balance of being beautifully put together, but with glimpses of that kind of thing peeking out when you look closely.

Murakami: Basically, at first you say, "It might be difficult...". Well, we are asking them to do a certain amount of work. But when I tell them why I think it would be cool to change it, they eventually say, "Well, let's give it a try. He is very kind.

Kaneko: Mr. Kamieda is a very realistic person. In the past, he even responded to an outlandish order to make skate shoes with German trainers. We have worked together on a variety of new products every season.

Upper branches: You made it! But I have to say that the ideas that come out of the two of you are so wonderful that it would be hard for me to come up with something like that. That's why I enjoy working with you every time.

Kaneko: They bring stories that I would normally pass over and say, "I made it! (laughs). (Laughs) And they do it without hesitation. Isn't that amazing?

Upper branches: I don't want to be too thick-skinned if I insist on too much hard work (laughs).

Kaneko: Talking about collaborations and special orders, Mr. Murakami, now that this "END ON END." has been created, do you feel that you will be doing more of such things in the future?

Murakami: The store has just started, so I hope to gradually develop it. It takes a lot of courage to make a request, partly because I am the creator.

Murakami: When you are making clothes for a collection and working on it in detail, asking someone to change the color or shape is quite a challenge, I think. I am the type of person who is OK with being told what to do as long as it is interesting, but there are those who are not so sure. It's a bit of a quandary.

Kaneko: Aside from the collaboration, you are now going to various exhibitions as a buyer to show up and pick up the products, right?

Murakami: Yes, I can forget that I am engaged in manufacturing and immerse myself in it. I can see things from a flat perspective. I try to capture the creator's way of thinking and the image he/she wants to show as much as possible. Also, I try to understand the space of "END. ON END." space, I try to create a well-balanced product lineup that feels a little strange, but at the same time fits in well.

Kaneko: I think that is a perspective that only a designer can have. I would like to see the behind-the-scenes Murakami-san.

Murakami: I'm asking so much about size. How big is the pitch of the developing size, etc.

Kaneko: You wouldn't like that (laughs).

Kaneko: That's right. This solidity, this fineness of detail, he does not slack off in the slightest in order to create something he is satisfied with. I feel that all of Mr. Murakami's creations are contained within. And because it is easier to understand than clothes, I would like people from all walks of life to take a look.

Murakami: It is embarrassing. Mr. Kamieda was a big factor in the creation of this product. It was very reassuring to have a professional in between us and the factory, and it was very easy to work with.

Murakami: That's right. Basically, I'm only being selfish.

Kaneko: He is by nature a very selfish person (laughs).

Upper branches: I hope it has been properly fulfilled.

Murakami: I actually haven't made many of those.

Upper branches: You feel like you're selling it for a lot less than it's worth, don't you?

Murakami: Yes, quietly. It's been a long time, and I thought it would be somewhat better that way.

Kaneko: We're having this roundtable discussion in spite of our quietness (laughs).

Murakami: That's good. We don't see each other very often without this kind of opportunity, so let's talk like this once in a while.