Vintage guru who enjoys wearing outerwear on a daily basis.
No.2 Mayu Kato
PROFILE
After working as store staff at a number of stores, she is currently a buyer for BEAMS BOY and the original director of BEAMS JAPAN WOMENS. His mix of vintage and casual outfits that ooze his own character are popular.
Instagram:@mayukato
What is important is not what you wear, but how you wear it in your own way.
What were your deciding factors when purchasing outerwear?
Kato: I have about 20 pieces of outerwear, but all of them were purchased in a manner similar to love at first sight. I think of vintage clothes as "encounters," so when I think, "This is it," I try to buy it! When I go shopping, I try to buy items when I think "this is it! When I go shopping, there are times when I go looking for a specific item and other times when I just take a quick look and buy. If I go looking for something, that is all I can see, so I try to enjoy shopping for chance encounters as much as possible.
Online shopping is convenient and efficient, but I value "buying from people. I value "buying from others". I like to share the joy of finding an item, or the feeling of "I love this part! I like to share my feelings with the staff when I buy an item. I still visit vintage clothing stores.
I think that may be the sense of shopping that only Ms. Kato, who has experience as a salesperson, can give us. What is your favorite vintage store?
Kato: I love "Witch" and "MITSURU" in Nagoya and "suntrap" in Koenji. I check out not only clothes, but also all the sundries and accessories. Some of the secondhand clothing stores in Nagoya are a little cheaper than those in Tokyo, so it's easy to buy. Even if you find the same item of secondhand clothing, you still buy it because it is one-of-a-kind.
Recently, I have been interested in costume items. I like things that are a little different from others, things that pack a punch just by adding them, things that go well with my denim style... I enjoy finding things that have a crafty feel to them. When I find something that has a crafty feel to it, I am drawn to its unique mood and enjoy wearing it.
Woolrich's robe coat
This Woolrich coat is a rare gem, isn't it?
Kato: This is a robe-type Hudson Bay coat with horizontal stripes on the front and sleeves. I think this coat was made by Woolrich based on a handmade set of blankets that someone cut up as a hobby. It is a gown type, has no buttons, and the hood is triangular, so it looks cute in the back. I sometimes see various types of gowns at thrift stores, including short-length and double-breasted types, but this gown tape with fringe is rare, so I wear it with care.
Since it is a so-called overcoat, the pocket is through, and I frequently make the mistake of putting my phone in by mistake and letting it fall (laughs).
It looks like it would go well with the frilly blouse you are wearing today.
Kato: In the past, I used to combine military items all over my body, which is what you would call a man's combination, but recently I have come to like items with a bit of an open neck. I like to add a little bit of femininity to my current look.
What's next?
Leather blouson from BEAMS JAPAN
Kato: BEAMS Japan Japan, I wanted to create a leather blouson that women could also wear in a good balance. I think I am not the only woman who feels that leather items give too rugged an impression and are difficult to wear.
The original personalized vintage jacket.
Kato: The shape is based on an oversized, button-less jacket that can be easily thrown on. We dared to make it one size fits all so that it can be worn by both men and women. Men can wear it just the right size, and women can wear it larger, with the hem fluttering in the wind.
When planning a project, I always worry about the size. What is important to me is how I want the garment to be worn. It is best for the customer to wear the garment in their own size once it is in their hands, but as a creator, it is also important for me to think about how I want the garment to be worn. I always have in mind the mood of "how I want the garment to be worn. I always have a mood in my mind of "how I want them to be worn".
Next up is Patagonia. You also wear outdoor outerwear, don't you?
Kato: Military, work, outdoor, traditional... I wear everything regardless of genre. The only thing I don't wear is down jackets, which I have always had a hard time matching with my wardrobe.
Of all the outdoor manufacturers, I think I like Patagonia the best. My husband is a big fan of Patagonia, so I was educated to be gifted as well (laughs). (Laughs.) He knows a lot about rare items with limited production years and the history of their tags.
Patagonia Guide Jacket
What attracts you to Patagonia?
Kato: It's the coloring. If I'm going to wear Patagonia, I'd rather try a flashier color than black or navy. I have other fleece blousons in various colors. This one is from the 90s, so it's relatively new, but if you think about it, it's vintage even for that decade. And the details are interesting if you look closely, like the reflectors on the kids' items.
I don't buy items because they are old or rare, but in my case, I am petite and can wear kids' sizes, so I may have rare items as a result.
Naya Rhea's wool check coat
The next piece is a coat by Naya Rea. The next piece is a coat by Naya Rea. It is one of the catchiest outerwear items in your wardrobe, isn't it?
Kato: I bought this from Inuzuka, director of Vermeerist BEAMS, who told me, "It will definitely look good on you. BEAMS] director Inuzuka told me, "This dress will definitely look good on you," so I bought it. It is rare for me to be recommended clothes by people I think are beautiful, so I was encouraged by his words.
Fermeisto Beams has always been buying from a perspective that is not limited to a particular style, while incorporating elements that give a sense of the London context. The London-chic block-check coat is a rare item in my wardrobe.
The silhouette is very cute when the front is closed because the waist part is tightly cinched. I'm curious to see how Kato-san wears this coat.
Kato: It is cute to wear a lace shirt peeking out from the collar with slightly menswear-like pants, or a ragged sweatshirt with old denim shorts. I try to keep a loose balance when coordinating my outfits. If I make everything too feminine, I'm probably embarrassed because I think, "Maybe I'm not a character. (laughs). (laughs) I also try to look cute from all angles, which is probably my theme when choosing clothes, not just outerwear.
Next is a special order D-1 mouton jacket from UNITED CAR. Next is a special-order D-1 mouton jacket from UNITED CAR. It looks cool.
Kato: This is the "United" brand, a sister brand of "BUZZ RICKSON'S," a line of "BUZZ RICKSON'S" of "Toyo Enterprise. This is an outerwear made by the sister brands "United Car" and "Beams Boy" of the "BUZZ RICKSON'S" line of "Toyo Enterprises. This is an outerwear made by "BUZZ RICKSON'S", a sister brand of "BUZZ RICKSON'S", and "BEAMS BOY". When we think of "military," we think of "military", but today's military clothing has an image of "military goods". I really like this item, including its roots, because it is also the basis of today's clothing.
I also admire the stiff military look, but I am careful not to take it too seriously (laughs). (Laughs) I'm also particular about the design, which is not smooth sheepskin but patchwork, which gives it a certain expression.
The minimalist design, which eliminates zip adjusters at the hem and pleats to enhance mobility, is also cool, as the original item was designed for airline mechanics. And what's more, it's comfortable to wear and warm. When it is cold in the middle of winter, it is more dependable than a down coat.
united car x BEAMS Patchwork D-1 jacket by BOY
We were introduced to five outfits in various directions. Looking at the staple outerwear, I could tell that Mr. Kato enjoys fashion every day.
Kato: I have always been a collector, so I collect items that I like. I wear different outerwear every day, and I get excited thinking about what to wear with it. Thanks to a senior colleague who once told me, "You should wear a variety of clothes," I have a habit of choosing clothes from a wide range of genres. I wear a variety of clothes, including both original items from BEAMS and items from up-and-coming brands, but just by mixing in one item of vintage clothing, I can make it look like me.