Vintage Summit 6: What's new in vintage clothing for four well-known vintage clothing enthusiasts?
HOUYHNHNM's famous "Vintage Summit" has now reached its lucky seventh edition, including spin-offs. This is the sixth in the regularly numbered series, and we are pleased to present a passionate talk session with four of the industry's best-known vintage clothing enthusiasts: Tomohiro Konno, Fujihara Yutaka, Michihiko Kurihara, and Takashi Abe. By unraveling the brands and categories they are interested in, they will guide you into the ongoing world of vintage clothing, which is so special to some and so maniacal to others, that it is said that the future of the vintage clothing power structure will change drastically. Let us take you to the ongoing world of vintage clothing, which is very special to some people and quite maniacal to others....
Born in 1977, he started NEXUSVII. in 2001 in N.Y. In March, he just held NEXUSVII. presents "VLACK VINTAGE SHOW" featuring vintage Burberry at the experimental directly managed store "V.E.L.".
Fujihara Yutaka / Director, BerBerJin
Born in 1977 . Produced and produced John Man denim for the reopening of the John Manjiro Museum in Kochi Prefecture. The limited edition of 120 pieces were sold out. . The special piece released at the 20th anniversary of "Berber Gin" on February 24 and 25 last year became a hot topic among vintage fans.
Michihiko Kurihara / Vintage Buyer
Born in 1977, he started his freelance career in 2011. He is one of the most trusted vintage buyers in Japan, not only from vintage clothing stores, but also from many select stores and brands. His name is now well-known worldwide, including Bangkok, where he was recently interviewed for "Unplugged" and was heard everywhere.
Takashi Abe / staff of beams online store
Born in 1976. He has been involved in men's fashion magazines as an editor and writer, and has handled many articles related to vintage clothing. He is currently in charge of writing for his company's website, and is also known as a collector of vintage bandanas.
Lecture 1: Tomohiro Konno
The more "roles" are attached to the shape, country of origin, materials, and specifications, the higher the price.
80's Burberrys' Tielocken Coat
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Again, I'll start with myself. The first is the "Tylocken Coat" by "Barberly".
section (of an orange, etc.). It's probably the hottest item on the market right now. When you search for "Burberry" on Yahoo! Auctions, you will see the search term "【 single sleeve", and it seems that everyone is looking for it.
chestnut fieldHeh . Is that something that is not limited to "tie-locken" but also regular trenches and stainless collars?
section (of an orange, etc.)Yes, I do , I do.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Tylocken originally started to be produced in the late 1800s, and was temporarily almost lost from the market. This coat is said to be the prototype of the trench coat, but I personally think it is easier to wear than the trench coat, and I think it is a Burberry coat that is less likely to be worn by other people. . I was told by the person who gave it to me that this is from around the 80's.
Fujiwara:One sleeve means, in essence, that there is no stripping on the arms, right?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Yes . Usually two-piece sleeves with strips are common, but some single sleeves have been found in both trenches and sten collars. I happened to be able to get one made in England, but I have never seen that many from other producing countries.
Fujiwara:Does that mean something like China-made?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I don't think it was china.
chestnut fieldI thought everything was a licensed product except England Made , no?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I think they are probably licensed, but some of them seem to have been produced in countries where they are considered rare again. The other day, I held a vintage Burberry event with the help of Stray Sheep (a vintage store in Mito that specializes in European items), and I was told that out of several thousand Burberry coats found, only one or two were made in France. I was told at the time that out of the thousands of Burberry coats you could find, only one or two were made in France.
section (of an orange, etc.)The other day, I checked a certain vintage clothing store in Koenji that had a few single-sleeved pieces on sale, and they also had one all-cotton piece made in France.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)So how much are you putting on it?
section (of an orange, etc.)About a gopher.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Cheap.
Fujiwara:5,800 yen?
section (of an orange, etc.)No, no, no, it's $58,000 (laughs).
chestnut fieldI mean, it's cheap at $58,000 (laughs).
Fujiwara:. I also thought it was a world of 15,800 yen or 19,800 yen.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)No, no, no. Do you know the regular price of "Burberry"? In Japan, it starts at over 200,000 yen. If you know that, 58,000 yen is a small price to pay. This is just anecdotal information, but it seems that Burberry coats were originally made for the wealthy in Europe, so they have never lowered their prices worldwide.
Fujiwara:I see . I guess you do that unexpectedly (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.)There are also two types of cotton, all-cotton and T/C (polyester blended cotton), but there are very few all-cotton ones anyway. . Or rather, almost only T/C is available.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The more roles are attached, the more expensive it is. . First, the shape, followed by the country of origin, sleeve specifications, and material. However, about a year and a half ago, I wanted to buy a piece of "Burberry" myself, so I asked a friend of mine at a vintage clothing store to help me learn a bit before I bought it, and I was hooked by the depth of the collection. There are a lot of special-order items, so there is still a lot I don't know. Well, we all started with American vintage clothing, so I guess it's partly because the European stuff was simply new to me. Actually, we are planning to hold the second Vintage Burberry show of the VLACK VINTAGE SHOW with the cooperation of Stray Sheep for the beginning of this fall, so please look forward to it.
Sharday is an artist with whom we are so closely associated that we even cite the name of his song in our brand concept."
90's Hip-Hop&Black Music T-Shirt
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Next is musician T from the 90's. Hip-hop and black music such as NAS, Snoop Doggy Dogg, and Arrested Development are the main focus.
section (of an orange, etc.)I'm not familiar with this area , but I know it's getting expensive these days.
chestnut fieldYes, it is. But, compared to the skyrocketing prices overseas, Japan is still doing better. Australia, for example, is in a terrible situation.
section (of an orange, etc.)That's right.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)NAS is an artist that I have such a strong feeling for that I even made an official T-shirt for my own brand, and Snoop was suspected of murder when his first album was released, I believe (laughs), so I wanted to listen to music made by such a bad guy, and in a timely manner I got hooked! He is one of the artists.
section (of an orange, etc.)Are these all official?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)What do you think? I think some of the boot is in there too. But, truth be told, the boot is less common and more popular.
section (of an orange, etc.)Huh? You mean the boot is more expensive?
chestnut fieldYes, that's right. For example, the official designs of Nirvana, for example, are to a certain extent fixed, and fans may be tired of seeing them, or perhaps the bootlegs, which are more obscure, are more popular.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)At Inspiration (a large trade show held once a year in LA and NY) that I went to the other day, there were quite a few of these items on display , and they were ridiculously overpriced. They didn't offer any discounts at all.
section (of an orange, etc.)When it comes to a little older artist t, it's all rock music, so I once looked for a black music artist too, but at the time, I couldn't find anything at all. Who is this?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Thelonious Monk. When I started collecting black music, I asked people around me about it, and they told me that they couldn't find anything by Marvin Gaye. Then I started looking for Marvin Gaye, but I couldn't find a single piece of clothing.
chestnut fieldYou're right, I may not have seen it.
section (of an orange, etc.)I remember a local store once had a champion body by Donald Byrd, one of my favorite artists, and it sold out while I was looking in other stores. I guess there are a lot of collectors who collect only this kind of items.
Fujiwara:So everyone listens to music properly (laughs).
all of us(Laughter)
chestnut fieldDon't worry, I don't listen to it that much either (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)This Arrested Development one was given to me by a friend. . I've worn this Shaday item a lot and it's falling apart, but I haven't been able to part with it. When I started the brand, I was thinking of a concept for the brand, and I quoted "Bullet Proof Soul," a song from Shaday's album, as the last sentence of the concept, so I have a personal connection with this artist.
section (of an orange, etc.)How much does it usually cost?
chestnut fieldI remember the snoop's one costing about 20-30,000 yen, but I think it costs more in the US.
section (of an orange, etc.)Seriously.... It's amazing, isn't it?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I got mine cheaply long before the price went up, but I think this Shah Day would be no less than $500 in the U.S. today.
I've got a certain amount of G-jeans, so I was thinking of getting some longer coveralls next.
60's Hercules & Oshkosh Coveralls
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The third is a pair of coveralls covered with patches. The body was made by "Hercules" or "Oshkosh" around the 60's, but the patches themselves were mainly from the 70's. Well, the deciding factor was the patches. Well, the deciding factor was the patches.
section (of an orange, etc.)What does this jacket mean in the first place? Not that there are that many of them , but you see them from time to time, don't you?
chestnut fieldThe patches are almost all from railroad-related companies, so I think they were owned by railroad people or collectors of railroad stuff, but I don't think they were worn to work with these.
Fujiwara:Yes . When they come out, they are almost dead stock, so it doesn't look like they were used on a daily basis.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Well, I had seen them a few times myself, but I wasn't that interested in them at first. However, since I was able to get a certain amount of G-jans, I was interested in coveralls with a little bit longer length next. Like this time, when I see a lot of patches like this, the dealers usually say, "If you calculate it out at say $0.00 per patch, it's definitely a good deal.
chestnut fieldThat's a common practice (laughs). Conversely, if I want a badge but can't do anything about the body, I convert it to the cost of a badge.
section (of an orange, etc.)If they do come out, are they mostly from the 60's or something?
Fujiwara:Yes, I agree. In the 1950s, I got the impression that engineer jackets were more common than coveralls.
chestnut fieldThis "Oshkosh" also has a railroad patch and is in near-deadstock condition, so I think it was probably worn to a railroad-related event.
section (of an orange, etc.)So it's for train enthusiasts over there?
chestnut field. perhaps . . perhaps it was like buying more patches for each event and gradually adding more and more.
section (of an orange, etc.)I see. But in the recent Japanese market, as Yutaka mentioned before (see the spin-off project), if the body is the same, I wonder if the one without the badge is more popular.
chestnut fieldBut that is because this is a Japanese vintage clothing market. For example, even for military items, it is not uncommon for a single patch to cost several hundred dollars to over a thousand dollars overseas, but our market does not have that level of culture. But our market does not have that kind of culture.
Fujiwara:The material value is naturally higher than the general unpatched ones, and as a person involved in vintage clothing, I don't want to put a lower price on them. However, whether it sells or not is another story.
The top button being a dove plus moving button was a complete first for me."
20's Carhartt Heart Button Coveralls
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)In connection with the coveralls, I'd like to conclude with a vintage Carhartt.
section (of an orange, etc.)This is amazing.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)I asked Kawamata of Smiley in Mito, who is writing a book on vintage 501XX with Yutaka, to take a look at them, and he said that they are probably the oldest "Carhartt" coveralls he knows, considering that the top button is not hammered in, there is no pocket flap, and the arms are reinforced with rivets. I think these are probably the oldest "Carhartt" coveralls with heart-shaped change buttons that he knows of.
section (of an orange, etc.)But you have a theory that these tags are made in Canada. . the one marked "master cloth" says Canada.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)This is generally the case, but from what I have heard from people in the know, it seems that this tag was not used only for Canadian-made products. Since it is called "Master Cloth," it was probably a high-end version, and there were both a high-end version and a low-priced version that did not have the Master Cloth specification at the same time.
section (of an orange, etc.)I see.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The color fading was a bit peculiar, so I looked it up and found out that it is left twill for this particular piece. The collar is also straight, and as I mentioned earlier, the top button is not hammered in, but a dove + moving button, which was completely new to me. . probably from around the 20's.
Fujiwara:No, it could be older than that. It seems that there is a specification that the top is a chinstrap + change button instead of a moving button, but again, that's a fine line if you're asking if that's older.
section (of an orange, etc.)How much would you charge?
Fujiwara:It depends on the condition, but if it is the same specs and in about one-wash condition, I might put 3 million yen on it.
section (of an orange, etc.)Seriously (laughs). Are the coveralls themselves moving around a lot in stores these days?
Fujiwara:There are some customers who buy the smaller sizes, such as 36, but I don't feel that they have regained much popularity yet.
section (of an orange, etc.). oh, I see. Some people still prefer the smaller size.
Fujiwara:Those who have been searching for a long time may be interested in the justification. In fact, looking at the data from the 20's to 40's, not all American workers of that time were large, and there is not much difference between their body shape and that of Japanese people nowadays. This means that even though the size range of 36 or 38 was common, the current situation of 40+ in the vintage clothing market suggests that there are not many golden size pieces in good condition left, which means that they are rare and in high demand.
