Vintage Summit 7, Part 2: A Vintage Summit discussion with special guests!
The second half of the second-hand clothing discussion with Kazutoshi Yamada, the representative of Berberzine, is finally underway. The five of us were talking more and more, and the drinks were helping. The five of us were talking more and more. They talked maniacally with the secondhand clothes brought by the five wise men. What are they interested in now? And don't miss the announcement of a long-awaited project for Vintage Summit fans at the end of the show. Let's start the second half of the Vintage Summit, shall we?
Born in 1977, he started NEXUSⅦ. in 2001 in N.Y. In 2014, he opened a directly-managed store "V.E.L." in Sendagaya, Tokyo, and plans to open a special pop-up store at a certain location in Tokyo in July.
Fujihara Yutaka / Director, BerBerJin
Born in 1977, he is also known as an advisor to the L.A. denim brand YANUK, and in June of last year he launched his own YouTube channel, where he is also active as a YouTuber.
Michihiko Kurihara / Vintage Buyer
Born in 1977, he started his freelance career in 2011. He is one of the most trusted vintage buyers in Japan, not only from vintage clothing stores but also from numerous select stores and brands. Last fall, he opened his own store "Mr. Clean Yokohama" for the first time in his career.
Takashi Abe / staff of beams online store
Born in 1976. He has been involved in men's fashion magazines as an editor and writer, and has handled many articles related to vintage clothing. He is currently in charge of writing for his company's website, and is also known as a world-class collector of vintage bandanas.
SPECIAL GUEST
Kazutoshi Yamada / BerBerJin Owner and Buyer
Owner and buyer of BerberJin, one of the best vintage stores in the world . He has been buying for 20 years and is still a key figure in the scene, living back and forth from the U.S. On Saturday, June 29, he will open his new store, & BerBerJin.
Lecture 3: Fujihara Yutaka Note the Patagonia color scheme of yesteryear."
Fujiwara:My first one is the "Lightweight Reversible Windbreaker" model from Patagonia. The pink and yellow one is from 1990, and the green and purple one is from 1991. In early spring, I've been wearing shells from The North Face for the past few years, but Patagonia has always been a favorite brand of mine, and I haven't worn a pullover in a while.
section (of an orange, etc.)The green one is still there, but you wouldn't wear the pink one, would you, Utaka?
Fujiwara:I'm going to wear it (laughs). (Laughs.) People around me often ask me, "Would you wear such a color? (laughs). (Laughs) Personally, I use it as a middle layer with denim over it. There are quite a few colors to choose from, and I'm thinking of collecting only the ones with the most flamboyant colors.
mountain fieldWhat are you going to do with the collection?
Fujiwara:No, well, it's a hobby (laughs). I think Kuri introduced Patagonia's MARS in this project before.See Vintage Summit 4.I'll leave that to you, but I was also interested in the inline color scheme, which is more in keeping with the Patagonia of yesteryear.
section (of an orange, etc.)It's never expensive, is it?
Fujiwara:Yes, you can still buy them for a few thousand yen. . two of them had originally come in and remained unsold, but something suddenly caught my attention.
mountain fieldThese two were made in '90 and '91, right? If you think about it, that means they are 30 years old. That would mean they wouldn't show up at all.
section (of an orange, etc.)Well, I don't think this model itself has ever been the focus of attention, so I think this project will be an opportunity for the market to go up (laughs).
mountain fieldI did think I saw a few "featherweight shell pullovers" from the late 80's, but I haven't paid much attention to this model.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.). The fact that it is reversible is also a nice touch.
chestnut fieldYes, the fabric doesn't deteriorate either. If it were the "Featherweight Shell Pullover" that Mr. Yamada mentioned, the coating on the lining would inevitably peel off, making it difficult to wear, but this model doesn't have that problem.
section (of an orange, etc.). If you look closely, you can see the color stitching and other elaborate details.
chestnut field. There's something like "Aqua Gear" (Nike's marine activity line that they had for a while from the late '80s), isn't there?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Indeed. It looks like "Aqua Gear. Moreover, it looks like a packable model that can be stored in the chest pocket, which might be convenient in early spring.
Just the right length and I like the double stitching on the collar."
70's LEVI'S SHIRT JACKET
Fujiwara:The second item is a 70s nylon jacket from Levi's. It is the same model as the one Kuri wore in our last interview with Chuck Toggle. It is the same model as the one Kuri wore in our last interview with Chuck Toggle. I had been looking for a jacket in my size for a long time. Actually, there is a third type in the exact same material, but it is shorter and not so comfortable to wear.
chestnut fieldThe yellow one doesn't have orange stitching, does it?
Fujiwara:Looks like it. Besides these two colors, there are also red and orange.
chestnut fieldThe part number is 606-57-1918. It's the same part number as the Super Slim, though it's not relevant because it's a different age.
Fujiwara:I think it was made for fashion. Like the "Patagonia" coat I mentioned earlier, it is just right for this time of year, and the double stitching on the collar is a personal favorite of mine.
section (of an orange, etc.)Really , it's a double. Are you actually wearing this?
Fujiwara:Yes, I have a shirt type. The third type is difficult to wear, but this shirt type is just the right length and easy to use.
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)This fabric is also very nice. I think it would be quite expensive if it were made now. It looks like it would take a lot of work.
section (of an orange, etc.)Is this one already soaring too?
Fujiwara:I think it's something like 19,800 yen.
mountain field. price, but you can't find it anymore if you look for it. When did Utah get it?
Fujiwara:I think it was about 3 or 4 years ago . At the time, I was looking for these because of the unique Levi's details such as the tabs and the arched cut of the pockets, but I just wanted to wear them at some point.
mountain fieldHow much was it then?
Fujiwara:I believe it was 7 or 8 thousand yen .
mountain fieldWell, if it was $70, I would stock it. Because Utah will buy it for twice as much, right?
all of us(Laughter).
Interesting 501® oddball t-shirts up to the '80s."
80s LEVI'S 501® PRINTED T-SHIRT
Fujiwara:The third item is also from Levi's. This is an official "501®" T-shirt.
section (of an orange, etc.)The photo T is interesting in that he is making the number "501" with his fingers.
mountain field. I bought this for Utah as a souvenir, didn't I?
Fujiwara:No, that's not true. I was very happy about that one, too, but it was a bit of a mess (laughs).
all of us(Laughter).
Fujiwara:But I liked it so much as a motif that I was looking for one and finally found a decent one at last.
mountain fieldThen give it back (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)End of the 80's maybe?
Fujiwara:Yes, it could be early 90's, but I think it's around that time. Many official "Levi's" of this era used this "Haynes" body, so I think it was probably around that time, judging from the age of the body.
section (of an orange, etc.)Who are these character prints?
Fujiwara:No , I don't understand.
mountain fieldOn the back it says "The Buttons Shall Set You Free" . Yes , what does it mean?
chestnut field. something like, "Buttons, 501 will set you free."
mountain field. you have a more clever way of putting it.
section (of an orange, etc.)Is it a big joke (laughs)? Is there not a lot of printed T's around here to begin with?
Fujiwara:I don't think there are many.
chestnut fieldI've seen it a few times, but it's not something I see that often.
section (of an orange, etc.)Are you going to wear it?
Fujiwara:I guess this is also in the realm of my hobbies, but as the 90's approached, the bodies also changed to those made by Levi's, so I'm still searching around for some oddities from this era that are not well known yet.
mountain fieldI'd love to wear that finger print. Come to think of it, isn't this navy-body T-shirt one of the ones I stocked too?
section (of an orange, etc.)Even though you purchase so many items every month, you still remember what you picked, don't you?
mountain fieldThat's true, isn't it? Hey, Kris?
chestnut fieldNo, I've forgotten quite a bit (laughs).
mountain fieldCorrection. I've forgotten most of it too (laughs).
Fujiwara:. Generally speaking, this (navy body) is not something that Mr. Yamada bought, either (laughs).
all of us(Laughter).
. four pieces have been identified in the country. Second thong."
50s LEVI'S 507XX "T-BACK"
Fujiwara:The last one is a Levi's "507XX" , thong. I have known of its existence for more than 10 years, but recently I finally got my hands on a pair that I am satisfied with.
mountain fieldYou hardly ever see thongs in seconds. Where do you get these things?
Fujiwara:You bought it from Mr. Yamada, didn't you?
mountain fieldI don't know if that's right (laughs).
section (of an orange, etc.)I knew you forgot properly (laughs).
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)The badge on the flap pocket is an awesome one for what it's worth. I believe it's from around the 20's and I've seen it for sale for a few hundred dollars before. The spelling on the coveralls starts with a K. .
mountain fieldYou mean the same as the kids category?
the recently departed (and buried or cremated, etc.)Perhaps so.
Fujiwara:In the "507XX," I am guessing at this stage that sizes 42 through 50 are two-stitched with additional stripping under the armpits and sewn together, and that sizes 52 through thongs and beyond.
section (of an orange, etc.)What size is the one you brought, Yutaka?
Fujiwara:This unit has an actual size of 52, so I'm guessing the original description is 54. A certain senior owns a piece with an actual size of 50, so I am guessing that the original description is 52. However, as far as the catalog of the time shows, the size variation of "507XX" is only up to 50, so the larger sizes may have been made as a special order. The tag also says "507XXEEE" instead of "507XXE" (E is an abbreviation of "Extra").
Fujiwara:Also, although only three pieces, including mine, have been confirmed in Japan at this time, a piece that appears to be a fourth piece was recently sold on an auction site and became a topic of conversation in some circles, didn't it?
section (of an orange, etc.)I believe it was sold for $1.3 million?
Fujiwara: That was 1,390,000 yen.
section (of an orange, etc.)Yikes . Is this less than a First (506XX) thong?
mountain fieldThere are far fewer of them. . but the shape is bad (laughs).
chestnut field. The width is longer than the length, right?
Fujiwara:Recently, a size 56 506XX was discovered, and Fake Alpha sold a dead stock size 50 as well, so I am still researching to see how much variation there is.
