FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

An assertion lurking in anonymity. What identity does UDA embrace?
Unknown Design Addicts

The claim that lurks in anonymity.
What is the identity that UDA embraces?

Do you know the brand "UDA" that suddenly appeared in WISM in December 2018? Under the concept of "Unknown Design Addicts," this is a brand that focuses on blending in with various brands of clothing, with itself playing a supporting role. Nevertheless, the clothes do make a strong statement, and the four bottoms released so far have sold out in the blink of an eye. Until now, little has been revealed about the brand's inner workings, but now, for the first time, designer Masaki Uda has appeared in the media! He and Ryu Horike, director of "Whism," talk about all things related to "UDA.

  • Photo_Ari Takagi
  • Text_Yuichiro Tsuji
  • Edit_Ryo Komuta

Neither party takes the initiative; it is an even relationship.

Are the items produced in your sewing factory?

Uda:I would like to do so if I could, but that would put pressure on other orders, so I ask the factories that helped me in my previous job. There are many fabric mills in Hiroshima, and there are many sewing factories in those places. I am very grateful that the factory was willing to accept my request, even though I had to quit my previous job for my own reasons, and they must have lost their work as a result. So I would like to make up for that by creating more jobs.

Hori family:I myself went to greet Uda-chan's family when I asked her to start a brand with us. I said to them, "I'm from a store called Wism, and we'd like you to start your own brand" (laughs).

It sounds like a wedding greeting (laughs).

Hori family:I value duty and humanity.

How do you go about the actual design process?

Uda:Earlier you mentioned that you thought on your own that you were good at pants, but I don't think I'm good at pants (laughs). (Laughs.) But I do like thick pants. My previous experience in various fields has broadened my design techniques and the range of details, so I add sewing and other skills to that. However, adding too much technology can create a sense of discomfort, so I try to adjust the silhouette so that the details are as unobtrusive as possible.

A: At first glance, none of the pants you have released so far make a statement, but if you look closely, you can see that the small details are effective and make a strong statement. I think this sense of balance is the charm of "UDA".

From UDA official Look

Hori family:That's right. If they were on a rack in a store, many people would pass by. However, when people wear them, they turn into a great item. So, "UDA" is like a plastic model. It's more like a construction type of item.

Uda: ..........

Hori family:Uda-chan is really not very reactive in general (laughs). But she sends me very long sentences explaining the products (laughs).

Uda-san, what are your thoughts on the balance between assertiveness and non-assertiveness?

Uda:It's almost like addition and subtraction. First of all, Mr. Horie gives me a subject. First of all, Mr. Horike gives me a subject, such as "easy pants" or "denim.

Hori family:That kind of exchange might be similar to what you are doing with Mr. Ino at "Doublet".

Uda:I would develop an image in my mind from the subject and think, "I would like to add this kind of detail. For example, I might want to add tucks. Then, when I have a certain idea, I draw a pattern and actually make a prototype sample, try it on, and worry about it again. That's why I don't draw a design at the beginning. I try on the prototypes and repeat the process of cutting out the volume that I think will appear here and there, and adding the volume that I think is lacking here and there.

You don't have a goal in sight, do you?

Uda:Yes, I am. I think about how to add one strange element at the beginning and make it less noticeable. But I try to find a balance so that the pants' quality is enhanced by the presence of that detail. That's why the first prototype is no good at all; we make various corrections in the second trial, and from there we make samples and show them to Mr. Horie. We would then make samples and show them to Mr. Horike, where we would exchange opinions and brush them up. So it's as if you and Mr. Horike are working together on the product.

Hori family:I'm in Tokyo and Uda-chan is in Hiroshima, so even if I wanted to go see her, I wouldn't be close enough to see her right away. When you are close, you can see the hardships. I learn things that I don't need to know. I think that is why we are able to maintain a good relationship. Neither of us takes the initiative. I think about the store, and Uda-chan thinks about the clothes, and then we share our opinions.

The fact that you have been able to continue in this way for so long is proof that you have produced a good product.

Hori family:That's right. Our staff also loves "UDA" very much. It is very gratifying to know that the people on site can convey his enthusiasm to the audience.

INFORMATION

WISM Shibuya

Address: 5-17-20 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Hours: 11:30 - 20:00 (Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun),
11:30 - 20:30 (Wed, Fri, Sat, eve of national holidays)
Phone: 03-6418-5034

WISM Shinjuku Store

Address: 2F, 4-1-7 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Hours: 11:30 - 20:30, open year-round
Phone: 03-5361-7760

WISM Horie Store

Address: 1-9-7 Minami-horie, Nishi-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka
Hours: 11:30 - 20:00, open year-round
Phone: 06-4390-4050

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