FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

An assertion lurking in anonymity. What identity does UDA embrace?
Unknown Design Addicts

The claim that lurks in anonymity.
What is the identity that UDA embraces?

Do you know the brand "UDA" that suddenly appeared in WISM in December 2018? Under the concept of "Unknown Design Addicts," this is a brand that focuses on blending in with various brands of clothing, with itself playing a supporting role. Nevertheless, the clothes do make a strong statement, and the four bottoms released so far have sold out in the blink of an eye. Until now, little has been revealed about the brand's inner workings, but now, for the first time, designer Masaki Uda has appeared in the media! He and Ryu Horike, director of "Whism," talk about all things related to "UDA.

  • Photo_Ari Takagi
  • Text_Yuichiro Tsuji
  • Edit_Ryo Komuta

Martin Margiela was in Hiroshima.

You have released slacks, easy pants, denim, and corduroy pants, and now you are proposing a set-up.

UDA〉Blouson ¥39,000+tax,
Pants ¥24,000+TAX

Uda:I was talking with Mr. Horike and we decided to do tops. The slacks are a slightly tweaked version of the first item we released.

Hori family:These slacks have a good reputation among people in so-called dress stores, who say it is very difficult to sew with such a blank space.

Uda:The seam allowance is sewn leaving a centimeter of width, and this allows for size adjustment. This is the specification of old slacks. It is so that when they are handed down from parents to children, they can be properly adjusted. It is the same with jackets. You can keep the seam allowance.

Hori family:Wow, that's the first time I've heard that story (laughs). That's the first time I've heard that story (laughs).

Uda:Sewing is simplified these days. For easier sewing.

How did you decide to do Tops?

Hori family:I didn't ask him to do the tops, but I had a vague feeling that he wanted to do them. Then one of our staff members said, "I'd like to see Uda's tops.

Uda:So I made a prototype as usual. Mr. Horike came to Fukuyama just at that time, and when I showed him the prototype, he said, "Well, let's set it up.

Hori family:When this blouson is worn with the front open, the opening of the collar comes out very nicely. When I first put it on, I thought, "What? Martin Margiela is in Hiroshima! I thought, "There's Martin Margiela in Hiroshima! (laughs). It's such a nice opening.

From UDA official Look

Uda:The design is a combination of a swing top and a dazzler. The sleeves are set-in, but are switched to look raglan-like, and flap pockets are made at the end of the sleeves.

Hori family:One of UDA's signature details is the layering of tucks, so when it came to expressing this in the top, we decided to use double pockets. One pocket is a hand warmer, and the other is a large pocket for a wallet. This is another detail that I was particular about.

The silhouette is relaxed and masculine. The armholes are also designed to be large.

Hori family:The back view is really nice. When worn with the front closed, the fabric sags nicely.

Uda:The fabric has a strong bounce, which makes it easy to create volume. The silhouette makes the most of this characteristic.

Is the fabric wool?

Uda:Yes, it is. It is a firm fabric called cheviot wool, similar to tweed. I was initially thinking of a cooler, more summery fabric, but this fabric has a dry feel and lightness, so I thought it would work well for the coming season. Besides, I liked the graininess of this fabric and suggested that I definitely wanted to use it.

Hori family:It is an English fabric, but it is hand combed to make it thinner. It is firm, but not thick, so I think it is suitable for all seasons except summer. This is not black and gray, but black and navy. The one Uda-chan is wearing today is navy.

It's true. If you look closely, you can see a bluish tinge.

Hori family:Combing the navy fabric makes it whitish and gives it an exquisite grayish hue. I really like this color myself.

INFORMATION

WISM Shibuya

Address: 5-17-20 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Hours: 11:30 - 20:00 (Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun),
11:30 - 20:30 (Wed, Fri, Sat, eve of national holidays)
Phone: 03-6418-5034

WISM Shinjuku Store

Address: 2F, 4-1-7 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Hours: 11:30 - 20:30, open year-round
Phone: 03-5361-7760

WISM Horie Store

Address: 1-9-7 Minami-horie, Nishi-ku, Osaka-shi, Osaka
Hours: 11:30 - 20:00, open year-round
Phone: 06-4390-4050

Related Articles#wism

See more