FEATURE | TIE UP

Translated By DeepL

A new book on BEAMS, edited with director Motoki Yoshikawa. Chapter 8: "Schadaraparr Bose on the Importance of Sticking to the Basics
Strategy Of BEAMS

A new book on BEAMS, edited with director Motoki Yoshikawa. Chapter 8: "Schadaraparr Bose on the Importance of Sticking to the Basics

Fashion in the 2000s is once again on the rise. This season's BEAMS collection is also based on the theme of "Y2K" and focuses on the culture of the 2000s, which emerged after the 1990s. What kind of behind-the-scenes stories can be found in the clothes that have been created in this way? Together with Motoki Yoshikawa, director of the men's casual department, we explore the strategies for this season's original items.
Our guest this time is Mr. Bose of "Schadaraparr," a milestone in the Japanese hip-hop scene, who talks a lot about the 1990s and 2000s, as well as his own views on fashion.

  • Photo_Teppei Hoshida
  • Text_Yuichiro Tsuji
  • Edit_Yuri Sudo

All of the items at BEAMS are well-made.

This season, BEAMS is designing original men's items under the theme of "Y2K".

Bose:You mean the 2000s?

Yoshikawa:That's right. We are digging up the culture of those days once again.

Bose:Already 23 years ago....

Yoshikawa:At that time, futuristic designs were often used. Nowadays, these designs look fresh and new.

Bose:Until recently, the 90's were booming, and the clothes we were wearing back then are still being sold at vintage clothing stores. In short, the fashion of the 2000s was slim in terms of silhouette, wasn't it?

Yoshikawa:Yes, I think so. Hedi Slimane presented some crazy tight clothes in his collection.

Bose:So you're going to be thin again?

Yoshikawa:Maybe they will, I don't know. I personally can't go back to thin clothes anymore... (laughs)

Bose:I can't go back (laughs). But when you look at the young people of today, their pants are thick, aren't they?

Yoshikawa:The bottom is thicker, but the top is compact. I don't think we'll see tight overalls in the near future.

Bose:It's easier to be loose-fitting, isn't it?

What kind of lineup do you have this time?

Yoshikawa:We have a full lineup of short-sleeved items, shorts, and other mid-summer items, and we are pushing the American casual style that we are good at. We also effectively insert technical clothes that symbolize "Y2K" into the collection.

Bose:We have a lot of basic clothes that we wear ourselves.

Yoshikawa:I would like to start with this item, which was inspired by snowboard pants from the 2000s. Since these are snowboard pants, there are no shorts originally (laughs).

Bose:Interesting design.

Yoshikawa:Snowboard pants have large tabs to make it easier to open the pockets with gloves on. This is interesting from a design point of view, so we adopted this detail. The fabric is light enough to wear in mid-summer, and the design is intended to look a bit like military pants.

Bose:Yes, it is easy to open the pockets. I wish all my pants had these from now on.

Yoshikawa:I would like to propose this aloha shirt as a top to go with these shorts. There is a slight mismatch in materials, but I thought it would enhance the shorts. This aloha shirt has a special "BEAMS" name tag.

Bose:Ah! It's the Thunder Gate!

Yoshikawa:That's right. Also, there is a Shinkansen drawn on it. BEAMS has been making special orders for this brand for a long time, and we have been using the same name tag for a long time. They collect vintage aloha and reprint them.

Bose:Then this pattern is the one that really existed.

Yoshikawa:That's right. When we find a vintage pattern, we buy it and we are always coming out with new aloha.

Bose:It's like putting out Gunpla from the past as they were in the past (laughs).

Yoshikawa:That's right (laughs). BEAMS" is good at making crazy patterns, so we mixed four different patterns in this item.

Bose:It's true. You are thinking properly.

Yoshikawa:Next is this shirt. It's a really basic design.

Bose:Wrinkled, isn't it?

Yoshikawa:It has a wrinkle finish, so it stays wrinkled even after washing (laughs).

Bose:It's done this way on purpose. My mom would get mad at me (laughs).

Yoshikawa:I thought the exquisite young grass coloring would be perfect for summer. And these pants are what I would like to match with this shirt. They are so-called "baker pants," but they are made of a summer-specific fabric that is very light and feels good against the skin.

Bose:It's really very thin. Looks comfortable to wear. Are the hems cut off?

Yoshikawa:When worn, they are about 9-part length, making them easy to coordinate with sandals and the like. Recently, more and more people don't wear belts, so I put a drawcord around the waist.

Bose:I guess everyone is like that! I'm fine without a belt myself (laughs). (laughs) Once I get used to this, I can't go back to the belt.

Yoshikawa:I also have belt loops, but it is by far the easiest thing to do with these.

Bose, is your choice of clothing becoming more and more relaxed?

Bose:I tend to choose such items somehow. The number of such clothes is gradually increasing.

Yoshikawa:On the other hand, the younger kids wear belts and put their jackets in. There is a polarization.

Bose:This T-shirt over here looks like old clothes, doesn't it?

Yoshikawa:This item was made using today's technology, inspired by old clothes that have been worn and tanned over the years.

Bose:How do you process this tan?

Yoshikawa:They are dyed using a special dyeing method and then hand-bleached to remove the colors. Items found in secondhand clothing stores are attractive because they change over time, but the fabric may be thin, and you may worry about their durability. But this is brand new, so you can wear it for a long time.

Bose:I see, so you are solving those niche problems.

Yoshikawa:Processing technology is also evolving year by year, so we make our products with an eye toward this area as well.

Bose is often associated with the image of red clothing.

Bose:That's right. I thought, "Isn't this T-shirt the one I used to wear? I thought, "This is what I used to wear once upon a time.

Do you have any feelings about the color red?

Bose:It's simply a red ranger role. There are three Schadaraparrs, so it's like "blue, green, red". I could just wear this T-shirt and go home.

Yoshikawa:The silhouette is a bit loose.

Bose:Big polo" used to be around once upon a time, but now we are back to the size of those days, aren't we?

Yoshikawa:Next, I would like to introduce a classic summer shirt from BEAMS. It is a button-down shirt made of heavy oxford, which is a very stiff fabric.

Bose:The size is quite large.

Yoshikawa:We make it quite large. However, the neck is fitted to the neck, and the length of the garment is well balanced. We did not just make the garment larger, but we balanced the entire garment to make it easier to wear. In the past, people used to wear XXL or XXXL, and I think there was some imbalance.

Bose:Yes, I think so. The length of the clothes is very long.

Yoshikawa:The neck is also a bit too loose, but we are working on solving these problems as we make this shirt. I would like to match this shirt with these denim shorts.

Bose:This is also a beltless pattern.

Yoshikawa:This is a special order from Gramichi, and the silhouette is very modern. The waist is true to size, with a line that bulges out around the thighs.

Bose:In the old days, we used to wear shorts that were extremely large, such as 36-inch shorts, and squeeze the waistband in tight.

Yoshikawa:This is a border T-shirt with a very fine pitch. From a distance, it may look like a solid color, but it is actually a border. The fabric is cotton mixed with rayon.

Bose:It's true. It's a little thicker.

Yoshikawa:That leads to a bit of a cool feeling. The design is really basic, so it is easy to match with various outfits.

Bose:It looks amazingly clean.

Yoshikawa:This is an item that mothers will love (laughs).

Bose:It's like, "You should go out with a girl who wears this kind of clothes" (laughs). (laughs)!

What was your impression of the items you saw here?

Bose:Overall, it was very basic. It was very familiar. So I thought it would be easy to pick it up and put it on quickly without worrying about anything. After all, normal is good. And if the material is good, I'm even happier. If I'm not careful, people will think I'm wearing fast fashion. However, the items at BEAMS were all basic, and yet still very proper. They have all the right points.

Yoshikawa:When we think about design, we are careful not to make it look like fast fashion. That is why we make it clear what points to focus on for each item.

Bose:The wearer is also concerned about that. It is something that touches the skin, so if possible, they want to choose something of good quality. As he explained the process to me, I realized that this is firmly in place.

INFORMATION

BEAMS 23SS COLLECTION

Official Site
Instagram: @beams_official @beams_mens_casual

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