Serialization 【, What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.122 "Elegance Blooming in the Age of 2022". Men, now is the time for frill shirts.

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

This is the 16th season of this series! The 122nd edition, the second in which all new stores have been replaced, is the popular store "anthem chill" in Yutenji. What kind of new vintage items will they introduce?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Yuto Inada / anthem chill Shop Manager
Vol.122_Ruffle shirt

-The theme of this series is "to find good regulars in the present that will remain in our records and memories like a true vintage. So, what is the definition of "anthem chill" or "new vintage" for you, Mr. Inada?

In my opinion, as you mentioned, among the vintage clothes that are not true vintage, they are "items that are genuinely interesting and appeal to the senses. Many of the items we carry in our store are good regular items selected from a different point of view than the age or rarity of the item, and I myself fell in love with them. In a sense, I thought that the items we carry at "Unsamuchir" could be described as "New Vintage".

The owner is in charge of purchasing. What is it that makes Ansamchir so unique?

This is my personal opinion, but I feel that many of the items are colored with the atmosphere and culture of the time. The owner has a long career as an importer of designer brands as well as vintage clothing, so items that are selected based on the knowledge he has cultivated through his long career as an importer, and based on his judgment that "it would be difficult to make this item with the brands that exist today due to various factors such as cost and production background," are very much like our shop. I think it is very typical of our company. The owner always says, "I am not interested in items that have been worn out," and we pick items that are not expensive, but are hard to find and not worn by anyone else, which is a characteristic of secondhand clothing.

I see. So that's the reason why you have a different selection from other vintage clothing stores that deal in so-called "American casual" vintage clothing. So, what does "Unsamuchir" introduce to us this time?

Men may not pick up these shirts easily, but that's why these "frill shirts" are the ones you should be looking for. Basically, most of them are from the 70's, so they may not meet the prerequisites for new vintage shirts, but that's the charm (laugh). (Laughs) In the first place, these items were worn in the framework of parties and dresses, and I think it is a bit different to treat them as something similar to casual shirts, so I have been proposing them for a long time. In this sense, I think it falls under the category of "New Vintage".

After Six ruffle shirt ¥16,000(Unsamuchir)

I think there are many people, including the author who is 44 years old this year, who have been dismissing frilly shirts as being too difficult to wear.

It is true that being able to wear it well = being a fashion expert. I think that the reason why thrifted clothing has not penetrated the secondhand clothing industry for men is that it is not an item that appears frequently because it is structurally demanding and categorized as a luxury item rather than a daily necessity. In fact, the owner said, "I still have to go to 10 thrift stores to find one of these items when I go shopping.

Palm Beach ruffle shirt ¥16,000(Unsamuchir)

Some people say they don't know the right way to incorporate it.

Surprisingly, it is also easy to take it in with the same ease as an oxford shirt. Above all, the fabric has a nice feel to it. It is thin, slightly transparent and shiny, and has a certain sex appeal. I heard that people used to avoid them for that reason, but now it depends on how they are worn. There is definitely an atmosphere in which it is fashionable for men to incorporate feminine elements and for women to incorporate masculine elements into their styling, and I myself like such fashion. In general, I would say that these are items that can be proposed in this day and age.

Fredericks of Hollywood ruffle shirt ¥12,000(Unsamuchir)

I see. If you talk about it from the perspective of "items that match the changing value standards and atmosphere of the times," then it is truly a new vintage. What are some of the points that we should pay attention to in terms of items?

The basic style is not that different between all of them. The only difference is the shape & size of the collar, and the amount and extent of the ruffles. As I mentioned earlier, the most popular style is the one in which the ruffles, the most distinctive feature, are carefully sewn in a full and detailed manner, or the piping is in a different color, as they are highly designed and stand out with an elegant atmosphere. Of course, white is also available, but pastel colors predominate. If you go to the trouble of choosing one, we recommend a brightly-colored one.

pep ruffle shirt ¥16,000(Unsamuchir)

How to wear it?

Although it is a standard practice, try to hit on the opposite taste. For example, creating contrast by pairing with masculine items such as leather or military gear. For example, sporty bottoms such as tracksuits and motocross pants, or layering frilly shirts over each other like in the Polo Ralph Lauren look would be an interesting approach. Ralph Lauren also occasionally offers ruffled shirts for women, sometimes in chambray material depending on the age, and sometimes in elegant and sexy styles. I think it would be a good idea to take a look at these looks as a reference.

Now that it's not so familiar to us anymore, we can enjoy it freely without being bound by rules.

That's right. I want to enjoy fashion in my own way. I want to enjoy fashion in my own way. We hope these people will give this item a try.

Yuto Inada / anthem chill Shop Manager
Located on the second floor of Motsuyaki Ban, a five-minute walk from Yutenji Station, is the hideaway store anthem chill. With its unique and distinctive selection, the store is supported by highly sensitive people such as designers, stylists, hairdressers, artists, and entertainers.
Instagram:@anthem_chill