[Series: 【 – What Exactly Is “NEW VINTAGE”?] Vol. 126 "Not quite what you'd expect" is what makes it interesting. DKNY, from the '90s to the Reiwa era.

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

This series is now entering its 16th season! For the 126th installment—the second spot in the second round (it’s a bit confusing, isn’t it?)—we’re featuring “Anthem Chill,” a popular spot in Yutenji. What kind of new vintage finds will they introduce to us!?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Yuto Inada / anthem chill Shop Manager
Vol. 126: DKNY Trousers

—Well, now that we’re on the second round, I’m looking forward to seeing what new vintages you’ll be introducing.

I’m thinking of going with these DKNY trousers—I’m sure they’ll resonate with people from the generation older than me, especially those in their 40s and up. Our buyer and owner, Watanabe, happened to discover some deadstock from the ’90s while in the U.S. and brought them back, and they’re actually quite an interesting find.

DKNW Trousers ¥ 12,000 (Ansumチル)

—When it comes to DKNY, the casual line from Donna Karan New York, it was quite popular here in Japan from the late 1990s through the 2000s, wasn’t it?

I’m not from that generation, so I didn’t know much about it, but the brand was founded in 1988 and launched the following year. Since 2002, it has been part of the LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton) Group, which owns Louis Vuitton, and it appears to be going strong even now in the Reiwa era. A quick look at the official website reveals a simple and modern aesthetic, which seems to be in line with DKNY’s recent trends.

—It does seem a bit different from how it was back then. I imagine the way it’s viewed will vary between those who experienced it firsthand and those who didn’t.

Back when I was into vintage fashion and used to dress that way, I wore a nylon bomber jacket from DKNY. I honestly thought it was just “a recent brand with a Y2K, tech-inspired vibe” (wry smile). So, I think younger generations who aren’t as old as me and don’t know the vibe of the ’90s will be able to enjoy it with a fresh, unbiased perspective.

—That’s true. What’s the key feature of this item?

First, let’s look at the fabric. It’s a cotton-spandex blend with a slightly crisp texture, and thanks to its stretch, it offers a slim silhouette while still allowing for plenty of movement. Another standout feature is the front pocket, designed for easy access from the top so you can slip your hand in without fuss. I believe this detail is designed to balance practicality with a unique selling point, making it a great choice for everyday wear.

—Back then, while the main line, *Donna Karan New York*, was known for its urban sophistication, this brand had a more casual, street-style vibe. Perhaps because it was popular mainly among B-boys, I recall that the pants were mostly wide-leg denim styles.

Exactly. That’s why I picked it—I thought that unexpected twist was really interesting. In fact, rather than looking like your average chinos, it features details you’d typically see on traditional trousers. Plus, even though it’s nearly 30 years old, it’s in deadstock condition with the tag still attached, and the price is just 12,000 yen. Even when you weigh it against the quality, it’s incredibly cheap—I’m truly blown away. The owner, Watanabe, was absolutely thrilled!

—The fact that it’s deadstock is what makes it so awesome.

That’s true. However, some younger customers have said things like, “I don’t really care if you call it ‘deadstock’ or whatever,” so there’s a chance this message might only resonate with older vintage enthusiasts…

—That’s too bad. By the way, this length is pretty long, isn’t it? Does everyone get them hemmed before wearing them?

When I’m assisting customers, if they try on a pair of pants that’s a bit too long, I usually suggest taking them in. However, when they’re this long, there’s a risk that taking them in too much could throw off the balance, so I ask them, “How do you want them to fit?” and proceed only if they’re okay with that.

—Finding the perfect balance for myself is part of the fun. The real challenge is figuring out how to pull off this “unconventional” look.

With such a beautiful silhouette, you might want to go for a traditional look. Pair it with a lapel jacket and loafers. If you want to add some variety to that dressy ensemble, it might be fun to go with a slightly classic outer layer, like a shearling coat. The key to bringing out the "Ansumチル" vibe is what you wear underneath. By adding a playful touch, like the “frilled shirt” we featured last time, I think fashion becomes more free and fun.

—The joy of discovering “little-known items” from “brands that are familiar to some” is something unique to vintage clothing.

As I mentioned last time, I think this is exactly the kind of item that “isn’t overly expensive, but is hard to find and unlikely to clash with anyone else’s style.” Deadstock of these kinds of staple items rarely turns up, and since even the owner—who claims to have “absolutely no interest in items that have been worn to death”—finds this one “interesting,” I really hope you’ll take this opportunity to give it a try!

Yuto Inada / anthem chill Shop Manager
Located on the second floor of Motsuyaki Ban, a five-minute walk from Yutenji Station, is the hideaway store anthem chill. With its unique and distinctive selection, the store is supported by highly sensitive people such as designers, stylists, hairdressers, artists, and entertainers.
Instagram:@anthem_chill