What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.128 “Even a broken silhouette is an important part of your individuality. 90”s US-made Alfa MA-1.

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

This is the final episode of Season 16! For the 128th and final episode, we’re joined by YUKI from the popular Koenji shop “HIMSELF.” Now that we’re in the second round, what kind of new vintage finds will she introduce to us!?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

YUKI / Director, HIMSELF
Vol. 128: Alpha Industries' MA-1

—Let’s get right to it. What new vintages will you be introducing this time?

How about an MA-1 from *Alpha Industries (ALPHA INDUSTRIES)*—a style that’s come full circle and has seen its market price rise in recent years?

—Back in the “90s, when it came to military outerwear, the M-65 and this MA-1 were the popular classics. These days, though, it’s a sad state of affairs—they’re considered ”items that middle-aged men shouldn’t wear”… Still, when you take another look, they really are cool!

Right? At our store, we’re dedicated to collecting MA-1 jackets from the ’90s that were made in the U.S.

—Back then, you could buy them at any American casual wear chain—like “JEANS MATE,” “Right-on,” or “UNIQLO”—so of course I wore them, too. I wonder if all of those were made in the U.S., too?

In an interview with a representative from the Alpha Division of EDWIN—which served as the brand’s sales agent in Japan until the fall of 2025—the representative said, “I think everything was Made in the USA until the 1990s,” so that’s probably the case.

—Apparently, the company originally started under the name “Dobbs INDUSTRIES” and changed to its current name in 1959, when it became a contractor for the U.S. military. “Dobbs” seems to have a meaning related to “glory,” but as for how it sounds in Japanese… (laughs). Now, I think most people associate MA-1 with the image of “Alpha,” but why “Alpha”?

It’s all about its pedigree as a prestigious military apparel brand that once supplied the U.S. military, its ties to various subcultures, and the rarity of being a ’90s, U.S.-made piece. Those are the reasons it’s garnering attention. Even Alpha’s MA-1 jacket—which used to be available everywhere—gains a sudden surge in presence and value as “new vintage” when reevaluated with these factors in mind.

Alpha Industries MA-1 ¥36,300(HIMSELF)

—It’s certainly an essential item when discussing cultures and fashion such as punk, Ura-Harajuku, and hip-hop. How is the younger generation reacting to it?

Lately, with the growing popularity of flight jackets in general—led by collared models like the CWU-35P and 45P—many people are saying, “Well, if that’s the case, Alpha is the obvious choice.” When I was younger, I used to consciously avoid them, thinking, “So everyone ends up going with Alpha, huh?” but the younger generation today seems to accept them without any reservations.

—Is there a specific way to choose a “new vintage” MA-1 jacket?

Speaking of the 90s Alpha line, I’ve noticed that many of them have lost their shape and become saggy after repeated cycles of wearing, washing, and drying…

—So, I guess I should avoid that sort of thing.

Actually, the fact that the “original silhouette is distorted” is actually a good thing. The hem of the back panel might be pulled up tightly, or the sleeves might be asymmetrical. I think what’s most wonderful is that you can view this imbalance—resulting from the passage of time—as a unique characteristic of each individual piece. It’s precisely because of these individual variations that there’s such joy in finding a piece that fits you perfectly. Some of our customers even enjoy customizing their jackets by adding patches or brooches. I think it’s precisely because this is such a standard item that it allows each owner to easily express their own personal style.

Alpha Industries MA-1 ¥36,300(HIMSELF)

—Are there any differences in the details depending on the era?

While the basics remain the same, I get the impression that the outer fabric has a bit of sheen in pieces from this era. It has a slightly slick feel to it, if you will. Then there’s the scratchy sensation when you pull the front zipper, and how the ribbing tends to pill easily—things that would normally be considered drawbacks, but are part of Alpha’s unique charm. That kind of rough-around-the-edges quality, in a good way, really gives it that authentic American feel, doesn’t it?

—I’ve heard that market prices are rising, but what’s the actual situation?

Prices have definitely gone up compared to a few years ago. What’s more, if you’re specifically looking for items from the ’90s or made in the U.S., it becomes even harder to find enough of them. This time, we’ve prepared black, sage green, and navy, but I think it’s quite a challenge to ensure that all color options, sizes, and conditions meet our standards so that customers can choose freely.

—About 10 years ago, larger sizes like XL were popular because they created a rounded silhouette, but what about now?

As for sizes, there hasn’t been much change, and sizes L and XL are popular among shoppers. Among our generation, many say they want to “just throw on an XL,” but in terms of fashion trends, “a snug fit” is the mainstream preference these days. So the general rule these days is that teens and people in their early 20s go for size L, while those who want a tight fit opt for size M.

Alpha Industries MA-1 ¥36,300(HIMSELF)

—I wonder how everyone else is handling this.

For a trendy look, layer a hoodie over a tank top or an open-collar shirt, and pair it with rigid denim jeans. On your feet, go for sneakers from brands like 〈adidas〉 or 〈New Balance〉 for a city-boy vibe. Sweatpants actually go surprisingly well with this look, too.

—When you say “not trendy,” do you mean like Yasufumi Terawaki in the TV drama series *Aibou*?

We don’t really have anyone like that here (lol). That said, it’s incredibly popular with older guys. It’s a piece that works for everyone—from young kids to older guys—without trying too hard or looking out of place. It’s one of the “three sacred treasures” of American casual outerwear, right up there with denim jackets and varsity jackets, so I’d definitely recommend picking one up.

YUKI/ Director, HIMSELF
The concept of "HIMSELF" is to let the customers themselves (=HIMSELF) enjoy "how they are responsible for the future of used clothes" through the store, and also to enjoy the fun of building the store itself (=HIMSELF). Director of HIMSELF. He is also in charge of its sister stores, "KLIPP" in Sangenjaya and "BABE Store" in Shimokitazawa.
Instagram:@himself__koenji
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