PROFILE
After working as a buyer for “ÉDIFICE” and “L’ECHOPPE,” she is currently active as the creative director of her own brand, “FOUNDOUR,” and as the owner of “BOUTIQUE” in Gaienmae. In addition, she demonstrates her expertise in a wide range of fields as a fashion director and will serve as the Japanese concept developer for 〈Felisi〉 starting in 2025.
I was thinking of the exact opposite of that glamorous atmosphere.
Mr. Kaneko’s connection with Italy began about 25 years ago. He says his first visit was for a buying trip while he was working as a buyer for “Edifice.” Even “Pitti Immagine Uomo (Pitti Immagine Uomo),” now renowned as one of the world’s largest men’s fashion trade shows, presented a very different scene back then.
—I didn’t think there was much of a connection between Mr. Kaneko and “Pitti,” but it turns out he used to go there when he was a buyer.
Kaneko:I used to go there around the year 2000. Back then, “Pitti” was at the height of the “Classico Italiano” trend, and there were tons of booths for brands associated with it.
—So you were there as a buyer for “Edifice,” right?
Kaneko:I took a look around the Classico Italia booth and learned a lot. There was also a quiet “Designer’s Corner” area over in one corner, and that was actually where I was headed. There were so many casual brands you can only see there, so I always made a point of heading straight for that section.
—What was your impression of Italian craftsmanship?
Kaneko:The craftsmanship in Italy is just incredibly delicate and beautiful. Even the casual pieces have a certain elegance to them. Within that, I was looking for workwear and traditional-style pieces. There were just so many booths—it was a blast discovering brands that nobody had heard of. There were also plenty of factory booths, so it was easy to negotiate custom orders. Sometimes, a brand would take one of those pieces and turn it into a finished product. When I think about it that way, what I’ve been doing hasn’t really changed since way back (laughs).
—“Pitti” has a glamorous image these days, but was that atmosphere already there back then?
Kaneko:It didn't have that festive atmosphere at all. It was glamorous, sure, but it was much more subdued. I used to go until around 2002, but since the focus was on dresses, there weren't that many buyers looking for casual wear.
—I wonder when that festival-like atmosphere started to take hold.
Kaneko:It was after I left “Edifice” and stopped going there. I think casual brands must have gradually increased, and at the same time, the number of casual buyers must have gone up as well.
—From there, it turned into a battle of snaps, and highly decorative fashion started to stand out, didn't it?
Kaneko:Since I myself have always based my style on “unfashion,” I’ve been thinking about the exact opposite of that glamorous vibe ever since back then. That’s why I couldn’t really relate to it personally.
—Didn’t you go to Italy even during your time at “Leshop”?
Kaneko:Since “Pitti” takes place so early in the year, it’s hard to make it work unless you’re really committed to going—which is why it was on my list of potential destinations, but I ended up not going because I’d packed my schedule too full in other countries.
