Vintage Summit 10: The industry's leading eccentrics talk about vintage clothing. | feature

The '80s were interesting because the sampling was messy, but in a good way."

1980's RALPH LAUREN M-51 TYPE COAT, 1980's L.L.Bean SHAWL COLLAR DENIM JACKET, 1980's NEWMAN M-65 TYPE DENIM JACKET

Kurihara:The next item was sampled and made from vintage around the 1980s.

Fujiwara:I like this denim M-65!

Konno:That's cool. What brand is that?

Kurihara:It's a brand called "NEWMAN.

Abe:That means Shinjuku (laughs).

Kurihara:No, it is France (laughs).

Abe:Did you buy it in the U.S.?

Kurihara:Yes, I have seen the brand's items in the past. I've seen items from this brand a few times, and they have stylish designs.

Konno:I love the color of this denim.

Kurihara:It's not very Euro-ish. I like the design because it doesn't have epaulettes or any strange extra details.

Abe:It looks sophisticated, doesn't it?

Kurihara:Yes, that's right. Replicas made in recent years are of course faithful to the originals. However, the replicas sampled from the vintage period are not faithful to the original at all, and in a good sense, they are a bit crude.

Abe:It's interesting that there are designs that have been sampled from this period.

Kurihara:Yes, I think this shawl-collar jacket is also inspired by a US Navy jacket. I think the shawl collar jacket from "L.L. Bean" is also inspired by US Navy, but it doesn't look vintage. It has the green denim that is unique to this era, and the cuff design that is typical of the brand. That's what's good about it, isn't it?

Konno:It's true that "L.L.Bean" of this era often uses bat-dye denim.

Kurihara:Yes, it is.

Fujiwara:This M-51 coat by Ralph Lauren is great.

Konno:This red embroidery on the left hem is cute, isn't it?

Kurihara:The big polos that were popular in the 90's have the embroidery on the hem on the right side. This one is on the left side.

Fujiwara:It's true.

Kurihara:The size of the garment is small for its size, so it may be a women's garment like the one I mentioned earlier, but I still think that Ralphs, who made M-51 garments from different materials in this era, was a master of their craft.

Konno:Can you wear a liner like the original M-51 (lol)?

Kurihara:Unfortunately, I can't put it on (laughs).

Abe:Have you always liked these slightly different items?

Kurihara:No, I wasn't really interested before. I think it was only after I started doing wholesale at work, especially in the last 4 or 5 years. As I saw more and more 80s and 90s items for wholesale, I gradually became more interested in them. I used to be completely uninterested in old fashioned items and ladies' wear, but as I broadened my perspective, I began to see that there were interesting designs from this era as well.

Fujiwara:The amount of Kris you are looking at is extraordinary.

Kurihara:In terms of quantity, I think I'm one of the more observant among my peers. But because of that, I don't remember where I bought it, from whom, or how much I paid for it like I used to (laughs).

Abe:It's amazing because he still goes out buying alone and just goes around thrifts and dealers during the day.

Kurihara:These items are not expensive, but they are not something you can find and buy on the Internet. So you have to search for them on foot, just like I do. Finding something unique from your own point of view is one of the best parts of vintage clothing.

Konno:It's really true.

Kurihara:When I wear it, sometimes people ask me, "What's that jacket?" but that makes me a little happy (laughs).