What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.114 If you're looking for US-made polo chinos, you'll want something with a "little twist.

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

This is the 15th season of this series! This is the 114th installment, the second in which all the new stores have been replaced. From the Yoyogihachiman area, home to many famous and new stores, here is Tatsuki Hashimoto of "Ayahuasca Clothing Store". What new vintage items will he introduce?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Tatsuki Hashimoto / Owner, Ayahuasca Clothing Store
Vol.114_Polo Ralph Lauren Chino Pants & Shorts

-The theme of this series is "to find good regular items that will remain in our records and memories like true vintage. So, what is the definition of "New Vintage" for "Ayahuasca Clothing Store"?

For our generation (now in our 40s), we are still a little reluctant to consider items made in the 2000s or later as vintage, so we would say that vintage items should be from the 1980s to 1990s, with a small number of items made in the United States, Italy, England, France, and other countries that are fundamental to the clothing industry. I guess you could say that the vintage is still a little bit difficult to define.

I see. If you look at it from the perspective of "finding interesting items," in the case of "polo ralph lauren" and "patagonia" of the same age, there is a high probability that the good-looking items are made in Hong Kong or Taiwan. or even made in Hong Kong or Taiwan.

That is true. However, as for Ralph Lauren, which is also my old stomping ground, American-made products are gradually becoming harder to find, so the rarity of American-made products is a positive factor for me. We are of the generation that has been showered with such education and ideas from our seniors, and have just barely inherited the "it has to be that way" ism, so I would like to be a bit particular about American-made products, including that.

I see.A previous contributor to this seriesMr. Kobayashi of "Navy Blazer" was also formerly from "Ralph Lauren," but are there many people who like vintage clothing?

What do you think? I got the impression that there were more people who did, but not the brand as a whole.

Ralph Lauren in the street context of LO LIFE, and Ralph Lauren as American traditional wear. If you had to decide which was more important to you, I would say that the latter was the mainstream.

I am an Ivy man myself, so I am the latter. Many of the customers were also American traditionalists, so I learned a lot from them.

Has this influenced the selection of the current "Awoyaska Clothing Store"?

I am not good at following trends, so I basically aim for "authentic, yet interesting" items. I myself don't like styling that doesn't have a sense of style, so I buy items that will serve as a hook to create a rhythm of individuality and personality.

I felt that maybe that's why the items in the store were all "colorful," both physically and mentally.


Thank you very much! We are always trying to respond to our customers' requests for items that they have picked, and then make further suggestions. The item I would like to introduce this time is the "Polo Ralph Lauren" chino pants, which everyone loves and customers respond well to.

long vowel mark (usually only used in katakana)Earlier in this article.As Mr. Hoshino of ARMSCLOTHINGSTORE introduced, I wonder what Mr. Hashimoto will propose for these so-called "polo chinos.

I'm the type of person who lives by feel, and I'm not good at rambling on, but polo chinos have an aura about them that is immediately apparent at first glance. The basic silhouette is tapered, with a deep crotch and very thick crotch and gut. I like the way the color of the colored ones fades with age, and I also like the exquisite firmness of the fabric due to the beating process.

The most important point is that they are becoming harder to find and more expensive than before, and they look good on anyone. This time, we would like to feature American-made products among them.

It is interesting that the position and wording of the name tag differs depending on the time of year, even though it looks the same at a glance.

It is a very common tag on the back pocket. The square tag with "POLO CHINO" on the back pocket is familiar, but it is hard to say for sure since the country of production and the tag can be different even for the same age, but the American version was made from the late 80s to the early to mid 90s. This time, we would like to focus on the summery orange color.

Polo Ralph Lauren chinos ¥13,000(Ayahuasca Clothing Store)

It has a strong statement, but the faded atmosphere is also perfect for summer. Polo enthusiasts say that the side seams are double-stitched, which gives them a beautiful bite...but I'm not interested in packability myself, so I'm not sure (laughs). However, I like the fact that the fabric is still in good shape even after that much wear.

I think you can tell how good they are when you actually wear them.


Even if the size is a little or a little big, it fits well if you tighten it with a belt. Catalogs and advertisements of the time show this kind of styling, and it does not seem to make much difference whether you choose the right size or a larger size. There are also a variety of colors, but the basic chinos are khaki, off-white, and navy. The rest are seasonal colors. Colored items that are currently soaring in the used clothing market fall into this latter category.

Next, shorts. In-seam two-tuck shorts are the standard of the standard "TYLER", aren't they?

Polo Ralph Lauren chino shorts ¥8,000(Ayahuasca Clothing Store)

This model was its predecessor, and at that time it did not yet have a model name tag. However, the design is almost the same. The crotch is very thick and the tucks are generous. The crotch is deep, and the hem is just above the knees. Simply put, it is a silhouette that suits men and women of all ages. Incidentally, only the waist size is indicated on the size label for shorts. Note that shorts that show the length as well are cut off from the long length. There are so many other types of shorts, such as those without tucks, in different colors and fabrics, that there is no limit to the number of types you can find.

What is the correct way to match socks with bare feet and sandals or sneakers?

In the Ivy League style, socks about mid-shin length and loafers or deck shoes were the basic attire. At Ralph Lauren, where I worked, the promise was to wear shoe-in socks that could not be seen from the outside and loafers.

I see. And the third one is full-length again. Compared to the first model, we can see a difference around the waist.

Polo Ralph Lauren chinos ¥11,000(Ayahuasca Clothing Store)

They are front straps without belt loops and have side straps for size adjustment. They are a simplified version of the so-called Gurkha pants, or perhaps a variant. The material has a crisp feel, but the quality label on the tag says they are 100% cotton. When worn with the hems rolled up, the relaxed feel is enhanced and the atmosphere is very good.

It makes me want to wear them to the beach. Also, the clubless version of the Polo Golf crest is a highlight.

I think this is one that fits the bill of "authentic, but interesting. I introduced this piece because I think it is one that fits the description of "authentic, yet somehow interesting. As I mentioned earlier, in my case, I choose items from a fashion point of view and my senses, so I can't talk about them from a cultural point of view. But I think that's fine. It is important that the person who buys the item is satisfied with it, and the poop is just one of the hooks. People who are curious can look it up, and we dare to leave such a "margin for enjoyment" (laughs).

Tatsuki Hashimoto / Owner, Ayahuasca Clothing Store
A happy and hip space on the first basement floor near Yoyogi-Koen and Yoyogi-Hachiman stations, just off the elevator in an exploratory mood, is the Ayahuasca Clothing Store. It will open in March 2021. The store offers a wide lineup of items that have the scent of music, movies, and other cultural influences of the owner, from true vintage items from 100 years ago to good regular items.
Instagram:@ayahuasca_clothes