Serial 【, What's the NEW VINTAGE? Vol.129 “Eighties” or "Nineties"? Denim overcoats that are "fun to look at.

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

This series will be in its 17th season before we know it! The 129th installment, the top of the series with all new stores, is at SWANK, a 5-minute walk from Setagaya Station on the Tokyu Setagaya Line, which has become a fierce battleground for vintage clothing. What kind of new vintage items will Ms. Nogami and Mr. Odaka introduce to us?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Shunsuke Nogami & Yuki Odaka / Director & Shop Manager, SWANK
Vol.129_Guess denim jacket, Get Used by Ellie denim jacket, Pamir denim vest

The theme of this series is “to find good regular items that will remain in our records and memories like a true vintage. First of all, please tell us about ”SWANK's unique selections.

We hope to convey to as many people as possible the fun of vintage clothing as well as the joy of fashion through vintage clothing by proposing and presenting items that are unusual in material, shape, size, pattern, detail, etc., and styling that mixes and matches a wide variety of genres, but has a sense of unity. We hope to convey not only the fun of vintage clothing but also the joy of fashion through vintage clothing to as many people as possible. We also aim to be a store where you can find items that you think are “cool” regardless of your age or gender.

What is Swank's definition of "new vintage"?

The difference between a true vintage and a so-called “true vintage” is that a vintage piece is valued from the viewpoint of “visually and sensuously cool,” which is different from the viewpoint of “information on history and details. I think it is something that you feel value from the viewpoint of ”visually and sensuously cool". In other words, it is different from finding value in "information such as history and details". In other words, "objects that have value in terms of design. I thought that this could be the "New Vintage".　I think this is what new vintage is all about.

I see. So, the items you are introducing here are also such items.

I guess you could call it a "true vintage" value. It was not until the 1990s that the concept of denim fading, biting, and whiskers was born. Therefore, we prepared interesting denim outerwear designs from the 1980s, which was before the 1990s.

I am 45 years old this year, so this is exactly the kind of image of America that I saw in real time during my childhood. I feel that this area is just on the edge of the paper, generationally speaking.

As you mentioned, many of those who knew the era may dismiss it as the dullest of all. However, it is quite interesting when you look back at it again. That is why I chose a GUESS denim jacket as my first item.

Guess denim jacket ¥37,400(Swank)

This brand was quite popular in the 80s and 90s, wasn't it? When I was in junior high school, there was even a “Guesspan hunt” as well as an Air Max hunt.

Denim itself was very popular at that time. There was a huge increase in variations, and at that time there were many unique and decorative items in both silhouette and design. However, this one is relatively quieter. GUESS" released several types of denim jackets reminiscent of the G-jacket worn by Marty in the movie "Back to the Future," and I think this is one of them.

The stonewashed look of the stonewash also gives off the smell of those days.

It is made of two colors of denim fabric, has a western yoke-like transition on the shoulders, and a ribbed hem. It also has a short length and a tight fit. The fabric is high in ounce, thick, and lined. The action pleats on the back ensure mobility, and the patterning is very particular and shines.

The lining has a large print of a football player.

What is this? To be honest, I don't feel a single element of football in the design (laughs). This kind of “unintelligibility” is one of the joys of secondhand clothing. Next is "GET USED by ELIE," a denim brand that gained popularity in the early 90s, known for its edgy designs that made famous hip-hop artists such as LL COOL J and 2Pac fall in love with it, and is even collected by some collectors.

I guess this sense of “nookiness” that you don't think about is also very fresh.

Get Used by Ellie's Denim Jacket ¥34,100(Swank)

It is. The most important point is the switch to a collage of American comic-like illustrations with a Roy Lichtenstein flavor. The intricate details and construction of the item itself are solid, and in the sense that you can find value in it, I think it deserves to be called "new vintage" without a doubt. And yet, it can also be worn with a modern sense, and the white denim is just right for wearing in early spring.

You mentioned collectors earlier. Are all of your brand's items like this?

In terms of 80’s taste, yes. Bottoms are also high-esteem, with a thicker crotch and tapered hems! The last one seems to be more mature than the other two, but chemical wash jeans seemed to be the best at the time. The last one is a vest that seems to have a more mature design than the other two, but the chemical wash is typical of the time. The brand is "iN CROWD by CELEBRATION.

Get Used by Ellie's Denim Jacket ¥34,100(Swank)

It's an unfamiliar brand, but it also has more than enough presence (laughs).

The placement of the pockets and other small details give it a military flavor, and the check flannel fabric inside gives it an "American" look. In the first place, even though it is lined and padded, it is a vest after all, so I don't know whether it is cold or hot (laughs).

Is this area categorized as "design vintage clothing" in the industry?

That is up to interpretation, or rather, the line is also ambiguous. In the sense that the material is denim, it is in the context of authentic American casual vintage clothing, but it could also be called design vintage clothing in the sense that it is designed as a fashion item, rather than designed for a specific purpose or function....

Personally, I think that “low reproducibility” is one of the definitions of design vintage clothing.

In other words, it is unlikely that you will find the same thing even if you try to find it. Well, in the end, it depends on the person who wears it, so either way is fine (laughs).

I am sure of it. What is the right way to incorporate these items nowadays?

I don't know if this is the right answer, but I don't want to make it too cozy, so I suggest combining it with something made of a different material. You can enjoy the contrast of materials by layering the tops with soft shell outerwear. Then, for the bottoms, you can wear sporty nylon pants or beautiful slacks. I often style them in such a way that they are not too casual while adding variety.

I guess the right thing to do would be to shift it a bit. Especially if the older generation wears it, they may mistake you for someone who has been wearing it from that time until now, and even the younger generation may think you are someone who wears old clothes lying around at home without thinking about it.

That is why it is important to make the most of the individuality of each item and combine items of different materials and tastes to create a “I'm wearing it with a purpose...” feel. It is therefore important to create a sense of "I'm wearing it with an aim. It is also important to be proud of your choice and say, "I like this kind of clothing! I think it will make your vintage clothing selection more enjoyable.

Shunsuke Nogami & Yuki Odaka / Director & Shop Manager, SWANK
In August 2024, the actual store "SWANK" opened near Setagaya Station on the Tokyu Setagaya Line, focusing on U.S. goods, but not focusing on so-called rarity or added value such as age or brand, but rather on vintage and regular items, The selection is wide ranging from vintage, regular, classical, culture-inspired, and even designer brands.
Instagram:@swank.usedclothing