What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.117 Women's wear, but "I've noticed that I've become a fan". If you're going to wear a garçon now, how about this?

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

This is the 15th season of this series! The 117th issue, which marks the start of the second round, is a new store in the Sangenjaya area, where the number of vintage clothing stores is rapidly increasing. What kind of new vintage items will they introduce this time?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

YUKI & KOUHEI / KLIPP Director & Store Manager
Vol.117_Trico Comme des Garçons lapeled jacket and knit cardigan

-What new vintages will you be introducing this time?

In the last issue, we introduced the universally popular NIKE golf and tennis lines as the intersection of the top trend and the next trend in the global fashion movement, not only in Japan but around the world. This time, we would like to focus on a Japanese brand that matches the atmosphere of the times. This time, we would like to focus on a Japanese brand that matches the atmosphere of the times: tricot COMME des GARÇONS.

Old pieces from COMME des GARÇONS and COMME des GARÇONS HOMME are in high demand among archive collectors. I think there are many readers who wonder, "What is Trico in the first place? First of all, please explain what kind of brand Trico is.

Comme des Garçons is one of Japan's most well-known brands, and is also known for its many different lines that have existed at different times. Among them, "Tricot Comme des Garçons" started in 1981 as a women's line specializing in knitwear only, as if the word "tricot," which means "knitting" in French, was given to its name.

Later, Trico began to offer woven T-shirts in addition to knitwear, and in 1987, the designer passed the baton from Rei Kawakubo to Junya Watanabe. Incidentally, Junichi Abe, a former designer for "kolor," was first assigned to Trico when he joined Comme des Garcons. In 2002, Tao Kurihara took over as designer, and the brand name was changed to "Tao" in the spring/summer 2022 season, so it can be said that Trico is now a defunct brand. It can be said that Tao is now a defunct brand.

This is the first time that women's items have been featured in this series.

It is true that the brand is often described as "girly" because it is a women's brand, but in fact, while it inherits the DNA of COMME des GARÇONS, it has items that are easy to wear on a daily basis and are suitable for a wide range of people. From an archival point of view, the brand is new even for our generation in our 30s, and I think it will be even fresher for the younger generation.

It's hard to put into words, but I understand what you mean. By the way, what is the difference between "archival" and "non-archival" items of such collection brands?

I think it is the reproducibility. The number of pieces that appear on the market is one of the conditions for "archival" or "not archival. For example, the bomber jacket by ISSEY MIYAKE, the "C" shaped rider by Maison Margiela, and the jacket by Garçon are examples.

They were not made as special items, but as a result of the buyers positioning them as masterpieces among the inline items at that time, they came to be called "archives. On the contrary, the majority of items were not "archived," and I think that the new vintage is sleeping in those items. The important thing is whether or not they are in tune with the trends and moods of the time.

I see. It is true that values change with the times, and that makes sense. And what is it that you would like to introduce to us?

The first is a wool lapeled jacket, made in 1990, with the most distinctive feature being the asymmetrical hem. It is also slender and lightweight. The inside is beautifully tailored, and although the length is short and the arms are narrow, the front is unisex (left front), so men's jackets can also be worn as long as you pay attention to your size.

Trico Comme des Garçons lapeled jacket ¥33,000 (clip (paper, surgical, etc.))

The distortion and the careful attention to detail give it a garçon-like quality.

Right? And another knit cardigan, also made of wool. According to the information on the tag, it was made in 2012, still more than 10 years ago. This one features individually colored front buttons and a partially sheer knit design. The arms are also very thin and tighter than the jacket. The buttonholes are also very carefully made, making this a "typical" item that shows great attention to detail.

Trico Comme des Garçons knit cardigan ¥25,300（clip (paper, surgical, etc.))

Indeed. The younger generation nowadays has a good style, and they prefer compact and short tops, so I thought it would be a good match.

In the first place, the approach of "men daring to wear women's clothes" itself is very nostalgic. That was a quick way for our generation to break through the fashion barrier when we were young (laughs). (laughs). I hope that such tension will come around again now.

At the same time, it is a question of how to insert them into the styling.

The current mood is to wear wide silhouette slacks or jeans with a tank top as an inner layer. A tank top as an inner layer and a shirt as a top layer are the standard. A-line silhouettes are the standard these days, so it's easy to get the idea. You could also match it with chinos. I think it would be fun if you could wear it in the context of "from JUNYA, from GARSON," and I think it would give you a greater degree of freedom.

It's a simple item, but the moment you try it on, you can tell it's cool.

True vintage and archival pieces are cool, but they have so much character and presence that if you are half-heartedly prepared, you will feel like you are being "dressed by the clothes. On the other hand, I think this cardigan blends in perfectly.

It looks ordinary at a quick glance, but if someone who knows what they're doing sees it, they'll say, "That's...?　That's..." and "This is a Garçon tricot. That level of tension is ideal. It's fashion only if you wear it. It would definitely be cool to see young men wearing Trico items, so please give it a try!

YUKI & KOUHEI / KLIPP Director & Store Manager
KLIPP opened on April 19, 2025 along Chazawa-dori in Sangenjaya, a district crowded with restaurants and vintage clothing stores. Regular and vintage clothing from domestic and international designers and maison brands are lined up in a clean and sophisticated space reminiscent of a high-sensitivity select store. Its sister stores are HIMSELF in Koenji and BABE Store in Shimokitazawa.
Instagram:@klipp_sangenjaya