In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
The 16th season has arrived with all the stores newly replaced! In the 124th issue, the last of the first round, YUKI from the popular store "HIMSELF" in Koenji will appear for the third time! What new vintages will she introduce this time?
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
YUKI / Director, HIMSELF
Vol.124_Polo Ralph Lauren's Drizzler Jacket
HIMSELF" has been around since Season 8, but you appeared in Season 15 as a sister store "KLIPP". From the viewpoint of "new vintage", do you see any changes in what customers are looking for?
Although there is a transition in fashionable brands and items from time to time, there does not seem to be any major change. However, overall, there may be an increase in the younger generation who are "paying attention to authentic items again.
Are they authentic items? What kind of items, for example?
If I had to name a brand, I would say "Patagonia. It is a classic in the world of vintage clothing, but each store picks completely different items, and I think it is interesting to have a brand that offers a wide variety of choices and allows each store to bring out its own color. Another brand that is a classic is Polo Ralph Lauren. Among these, the Drizzler jacket is the most popular at our shop.
It has been released in the current version as well, and is one of the first standard items, isn't it?
Every used clothing store carries at least one of these. We have customers from far away outside of Tokyo who come to our store just for this item. We produce a look once every two months, and we have been using them for a long time, so I think they are finally gaining popularity as "an item that can create a cool style.
We have prepared several outfits for you this time. At a quick glance, they all look the same except for the coloring.
It's just a small part, but there are differences in details such as lining, action pleats on the back, and ventilation under the armpits. Moreover, the interesting thing about "Polo Ralph Lauren" is that you can find variations even in the same age group, rather than "variations by age.
Is this the most basic form?
Yes. Simple design with elastic closures at the hem and cuffs, no fit adjustment adjusters, and no underarm ventilation. The silhouette is wide and short in length. The armholes are thick, so when worn and the front zip closed, it is round and cute.
Polo Ralph Lauren Drizzler Jacket ¥27,500 (himself)
There is a sense of American-style revival in the air these days, and it's a good atmosphere, isn't it? What do you think of the color variations?
The standard colors are khaki, beige, black, and navy. In addition to these, seasonal colors are also available, so if you look for them, you will find that they are quite profound. Even in blue and yellow, there are many different types with slightly different tones. The country of production has shifted from the U.S. to Euro, then to Hong Kong, China, and other Asian countries, and recently, you can find many Korean products.
Is there any difference between countries of production?
The design itself has not changed much, but there are some differences in size and details. Also, in the old 80's models, the texture of the fabric is quite different, even if it is the same cotton. The former is popular among those who want to enjoy puckering and fading after wearing. There are also peach skin-like fabrics, smooth poly blend fabrics, and leather. These are in demand for those who want to wear them beautifully.
The lined one has a particularly American feel to it.
Models with checkered lining, cuffed sleeves, and leather zip pulls are basically one-rank higher specifications. They are all cute and very popular. Also popular are the Euro-planned items that use cordieroy fabric. These also go on sale as soon as they arrive.
Polo Ralph Lauren Drizzler Jacket ¥27,500 (himself)
In the 90's, oversized drift jacket with checkered lining was popular among East Coast B-Boys on the streets. What kind of outfits do you still suggest in terms of "Himself"?
I miss it. At our house, the basic bottoms are slacks. Loafers or sneakers on the feet, and a layered shirt and knit top or crew-neck sweatshirt. I think it's a good idea to keep a hint of street style, while styling it in a clean way. Until recently, there were not many young people wearing the Drizzler jacket, so I think it looks fresh.
I was surprised because I thought it was affordable and a standard item.
There is no doubt that it is a standard item, but it is true that there are those who avoid it because of a somewhat image-based reason, such as "everyone has it," just like "Carhartt," which is also a standard item. However, they are in line with the current fashion scene, and the products themselves, such as the production and silhouette, are excellent. It can be said that they are indispensable for expressing American traditional, which has become a trend in recent years, in the "Himself" style.
What do you recommend in particular?
In terms of coloring, beige is not a recent trend, so I'll give it a rest (laughs). Conversely, navy, olive, and bordeaux are also popular. Colored items such as yellow and pink that have been worn and faded quickly sell out.
Polo Ralph Lauren Drizzler Jacket ¥27,500 (himself)
Polo Ralph Lauren Drizzler Jacket ¥27,500 (himself)
It's fun to customize it by adding a Ralph cap (that thing with the icon embroidered in a single point on the front) here, or a little brooch or badge.
If you are thinking, "I'm going to wear the same cap as everyone else because it's a standard item," please give it a try. Because both Drizzlers and caps are standard items, they fit in with your outfits without being too assertive, and you can create your own "personality" by customizing them in this way, so you can enjoy fashion even more.
YUKI/ Director, HIMSELF
The concept of "HIMSELF" is to let the customers themselves (=HIMSELF) enjoy "how they are responsible for the future of used clothes" through the store, and also to enjoy the fun of building the store itself (=HIMSELF). Director of HIMSELF. He is also in charge of its sister stores, "KLIPP" in Sangenjaya and "BABE Store" in Shimokitazawa.
Instagram:@himself__koenji
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