What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.135 Daring to stick to the “unimportant”. Ralph's multi-bordered polo.

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

This series will be in its 17th season before we know it! With all the stores newly replaced, the 135th installment is the second round of Ensemble, which celebrated its 10th anniversary this year in Kichijoji, Tokyo. What new vintage items will the owner, Mr. Takeuchi, introduce this time?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Hiroaki Takeuchi / Owner, Ensemble
Vol.135_Polo Ralph Lauren polo shirts circa 1990s-early 2000s

What new vintages will you be introducing in this second round?

last timeThis time, we are going to introduce polo shirts, which are also the most royal item of all, from “Polo Ralph Lauren”, the most royal item of all, in connection with the American tradition. However, since there are too many types and designs, I would like to introduce them with the restriction of "border patterns from the 1990s to the early 2000s.

I have an image that this kind of striped polo shirt was worn in the 80s and 90s by the father's generation of the author (45 years old). How is the reaction in stores?

To be honest, I don't move much (laughs). This time...well, the same thing happened with the previous Abercrombie and Fitch, but I like Polo Ralph Lauren, stripes, and polo shirts, so I collected them as a triumvirate of items, and I wanted more people to like them too. However, the criteria for judging these items is “my personal subjectivity” (laughs).

I am totally fine with that, because personal subjectivity is important when talking about the new vintage! Now, let's see the items.

First of all, the material is basically 100% cotton. In terms of fabrics, canoko is the standard. Let's start with that. I prefer multi-borders that combine multiple colors and borders of different pitches, and I tend to choose blue, navy, or gray as the base color, which gives an intellectual and mature impression.

Polo Ralph Lauren polo shirt ¥8,690(Ensemble)

Some of them are the same cotton 100%, but in a soft, stretchy fabric like a cut-and-sew or high-gauge knit. This is it, with a slightly more mature and luxurious feel.

Polo Ralph Lauren polo shirt ¥8,690(Ensemble)

I hate to put it this way, but it looks very plain.

When it comes to summer tops, T-shirts come first, short-sleeved shirts come second, and short-sleeved polo shirts come a long way down the list as a third choice. I think the short-sleeved polo shirt is a good candidate for the third candidate, which is a long way down the list. However, there are some points to be aware of in a modest way. First, the width of the body. The “1990s to early 2000s” silhouettes we have prepared this time are relatively loose-fitting. This makes it easy to accommodate the modern silhouette.

The silhouette is important. If it is too tight, it will give the impression of being from “those days of my father's generation. What details should we pay attention to?

Basically, they are all the same, but the sleeve tips have ribs and are made of the same material as the body. But that, too, is a part that you won't notice unless you look closely at the comparisons side by side.

-I'm not sure what to expect, but I'd like to know what you think of the newest trends in the industry.

Polo Ralph Lauren polo shirt ¥8,690(Ensemble)

We don't care too much about it. This is the only American-made one among those introduced here, but the color scheme is a bit odd and not to everyone's taste, but it seems to stick with those who can get into it.

-Certainly austere. There are many different countries of production.

China, Peru, Bolivia, Sri Lanka, Singapore, Malaysia, the Philippines, etc. It is not that there is any difference in quality, but there are many cases where I have seen tags from Bolivia and Peru when I thought "Hey, this color and pattern are nice! I often see tags that say "Bolivia and Peru," so I get excited about these two countries.

Polo Ralph Lauren polo shirt ¥8,690(Ensemble)

Polo Ralph Lauren polo shirt ¥8,690(Ensemble)

Next, here it is. What do the small golden circles embroidered on this tag mean?

Polo Ralph Lauren polo shirt ¥8,690(Ensemble)

There are various theories, but it is said to mean a B-grade or outlet item. This one seems to have more elements with a gray base and borders of different pitches and colors, but it is a surprisingly cohesive piece.

What do you think about the size?　I think that old canoko polo shirts often differ in size from the actual measurements on the tag.

In my case, as long as the border pattern and color are good, I don't care too much whether I buy a S or an XXL. I don't really care about the size, because some people like to wear a single piece just right, while others may want to wear a larger piece with a T-shirt or a long T-shirt underneath.

How would you dress?

In the summer, I would wear it with a pair of chino shorts with a loose silhouette to balance it out. The world has a strong image of plain polo shirts as something old men wear. The addition of a striped accent makes it more attractive. This is also true of the embroidered logo of the polo player (PP). If you wear it, you look like a “nice guy,” but on the other hand, if you wear it, you look like a “very delinquent person.

How do you wear it? and the fact that it is completely unrelated to a mounting war is also a good thing!

Compared to solid colors, I think the border itself has fewer balls, but there are literally as many variations as there are stars, so it is not easy to find things that are exactly the same as the ones shown here. But you can usually buy one at a price within ¥10,000. I think this level of value is just right. Even our prices are 8,690 for ¥.

The price is uniform regardless of the age or detail, and it's also rather unique. That's also what makes this item so unique.

In the case of a multi-striped pattern such as the one featured here, it is easy to pick up the color and match it with the color of layered items, shoes, hats, and accessories, in short, it is easy to incorporate it into your outfits. In short, they are easy to incorporate into one's outfit. I think this is an important aspect of choosing new vintage-style items.

I have changed the way I look at Polo Ralph Lauren polo shirts, especially the striped polo shirts.

Even people who are not interested in fashion know about Polo Ralph Lauren. There are some items that are valued as vintage, and there are some enthusiasts. But that's just one aspect of the brand, and the majority of inline wearers are not like that. If you find interest in polo shirts that “aren't” polo shirts, you can enjoy "Polo Ralph Lauren" even more.

It's like the more you stick with it, the deeper you get into it.

It's like a bottomless swamp (laughs). Personally, I carefully select the pitch and color of the border patterns, but the people around me only see “Oh, it's Polo Ralph Lauren,” and think it's unimportant. I think that's what's so good about it. Polo shirts from "Polo Ralph Lauren" are good.

Hiroaki Takeuchi / Owner, Ensemble
His love of vintage clothing led him to open “Ensemble” in January 2016 to start his own vintage clothing store. Based on his own roots in American casual wear, he picks up "items he finds interesting regardless of genre" mainly through purchases in the United States. The items that fill the store are all in good condition and reasonably priced. The store just celebrated its 10th anniversary this January.
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