What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.134 “It's chic to wear it rough. Silk shirts with a larger body width are in style.

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

This series will be in its 17th season before we know it! All the new stores have been replaced, and the 134th installment is the second round of "pelo" in Shoinjinsha-mae, Tokyu Setagaya Line. What new vintage items will Mr. Taki introduce this time?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Yusuke Taki / Owner, pelo
Vol.134_Silk shirt with oversilhouette

Now, what new vintages will you be introducing this time?

About half of the customers who shop at our store are people who wear new clothes as well as old clothes, rather than wearing only vintage clothes. We would like to pick up “silk shirts” that are popular among such customers who consider vintage clothes as “everyday clothes” rather than special items.

Silk shirts found in second-hand stores have an image of being difficult to wear because they have very flashy patterns, are too small, or have too narrow armholes and too long sleeves. ......

It is true that silk shirts have a strong image of flashy patterns. Therefore, you should aim for plain shirts. The key is to choose the right size. There are still a number of items on the secondhand clothing market, but the chance of encountering “something that can be worn now” is much lower. Therefore, it is important to be discerning.

Is there such a thing as a good or bad silk shirt?

First of all, there are differences in the quality of fabrics depending on the country of production and brand, but in the case of so-called regular vintage clothing, there is not that much difference. I think the silhouette is more important. Sleeve length, armhole thickness, and length are of course important, but the most important thing is the body width.

Oh, is it width?

That's right. We are so conscious of this that we do not purchase items that are not wide enough. The item we prepared this time is just like that, and the sleeve length and the length of the clothes are just right, and the sense of size is exquisite.

I'm not too concerned about the width of your shoulders.

To begin with, the greatest appeal of silk shirts is the drape created by the soft and smooth texture of the material. Thanks to this, if you choose a large silhouette with a wide body, the shoulders will have a drop-shoulder look, and the silhouette can be easily faked. On the other hand, if you choose a narrower, slimmer silhouette, it will look like you are wearing a women's item, so be careful unless you “dare” to aim for that.

Are there any differences in the shape of the collar or the cut of the hem, etc., depending on the age of the garment?

In my experience, the overwhelming majority of the items I buy are from the 1980s and 1990s. Therefore, I have the impression that most of them have regular collars. However, there are some individual differences in the breast pockets. The curve of the corners of the pockets, the shape of the lower part, and so on. Some have only one breast pocket, some both breast pockets, and if you include the presence or absence of a flap, you will find a surprisingly wide range of variations. Also, some shirts by GOOUCH, a brand known for its silk shirts, have unique pockets, so I thought it would be interesting to see what you could find.

I see that the brand is also famous for its silk shirts.

There are so many brands out there that it would be appropriate to say that there are no particular brands at all. Apart from "Gooch," you can often find "ROBERT STOCK" at ......, but this time, we dared to skip such famous brands. First of all, this "PROTEST CLOTHING".

This is the first time I've heard of it.

It's a very good shirt, isn't it? In fact, there is nothing special to say about this shirt except that it is a regular-collar shirt made of silk (laugh). (Laughs) In short, I hope to convey that it is correct to choose a shirt based on its material and silhouette, not on the brand. So, in the extreme, we buy shirts regardless of whether they have name value or not, as long as they have the right three elements of silhouette, texture, and atmosphere.

Silk shirt by Protest Clothing ¥11,000(PERO).

The second item was Jean Maseric. This brand is also unfamiliar to me, but you can find it at .......

As “PARIS” is written on the tag, it is a brand originating from France, so if we read it locally, it is probably "Jean Masselic. The tag with an illustration of a human figure is also excellent, but the overall look is comparatively solid. The third and last one is "STUDIO. To be honest, we are not sure of the details of the brand. Unless a store selects these items with great attention to detail, they are probably treated as so-called "no-brand" items.

Jean Maselik's silk shirt ¥13,200(PERO).

Silk shirt by Studio ¥11,000(PERO).

Silk is a cool-to-the-touch material that feels cool to the touch, so I think it's perfect for the coming season.

Yes. On the other hand, it is also recommended as a countermeasure against air conditioning. My wife sells flowers under the name "Postmani" at our store, and the air conditioning is always on.

I was wondering, there are two types of hem cuttings, round and square, which do you recommend for silk shirts?

I had not really thought about it, but whether tucked in or tucked out, the rounded shape naturally connects the lines of the top and bottoms, making it easier to create a sense of unity. A rounded curve is even better if it is loose, which is also my personal current mood.

One more thing: I have an image that silk is hard to care for. ......

It is true that this material is delicate and must be handled with care, but that is why I think it is so cool to wear it in a rough, everyday manner. It is best to wear it tucked out rather than tucked in, and with the front open, as if it were a woven garment.

You are talking about “making silk shirts into real clothing. How do you take care of them?

Basically, I wash them in the household washing machine. There are often problems with buttons being damaged during washing, but if you put them in a net and spin them, the probability of damage is greatly reduced. Also, never use the dryer; it dries quickly, so it is OK to lightly remove wrinkles and hang dry in the shade.

That makes it sound a lot more familiar.

As I mentioned earlier, the appeal of regular items is that they can be enjoyed in the price range of around 10,000 yen, which may be similar to the position of leather jackets. It is similar to the position of leather jackets. Silk shirts are one of those items that are “worth buying secondhand.

Yusuke Taki / Owner, pelo
At his previous job at a certain used clothing store, he was in charge of purchasing in Canada for about two years. After working in PR, store management, and event planning, he became independent and opened "pelo" in September 2025 in Shoinjinsha-mae, Tokyo. In September 2025, he opened "pelo" in Shoin-jinja-mae. In the same space, "Postomani," a flower shop run by his partner Meibuki, will coexist, providing a special space surrounded by flowers and vintage items to enrich daily life a little.
Instagram:@pelo_shoinjinja