[Series: 【—What Exactly Is “NEW VINTAGE”?] Vol. 142 “It’s Just So Awesome” Chico’s Design. That all-over embroidered denim jacket is just so cool, isn’t it?

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

Before we knew it, this series has entered its 18th season, and we’re bringing you this installment from a new shop. For the 142nd installment, we’re back for a second visit to “Comp,” located in front of Shoin Shrine in Setagaya Ward, Tokyo. What new vintage finds will the owner, Mr. Ishikawa, introduce to us this time!?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Daiki Ishikawa / Owner of comp
Vol. 142_Chico's Design All-Over Embroidered Denim Jacket

Now, what are the new vintage items you are going to introduce?

Last time, I introduced a jacket from Cloudveil as “an item that has the potential to win over many people with just one little spark.” Following up on that, how about a fully embroidered denim jacket from CHICO’S DESIGN this time?

Chico's Design Denim Jacket ¥12,100 (Sold Out)

—I believe you defined “New Vintage” as “rather than rarity, mass production creates a foundation that makes it easier for many people to see and appreciate the work.”

That's right. In that regard, isIn Season 15, Mr. Kawasaki of "Atsurae Vintage" discussed...Maybe that’s why it resonates so well with readers. I’d come across it by chance while sourcing merchandise, think “This is interesting,” and pick it up—and before I knew it, I’d built up a collection. To me, *Chico’s Design* is that kind of brand. It was founded in the U.S. in 1983. It started as a small shop selling Mexican folk art-style goods, but later began designing, manufacturing, and selling clothing—primarily women’s wear. Until now, we’ve mainly carried plain linen shirts, so this is our first time carrying a lightweight outerwear piece from them.

—It’s true that light outerwear might be a bit of a rarity. The brand’s recent lineup gives the impression of being aimed at young, sophisticated women, but compared to that, this piece has a much stronger impact.

It really makes an impact, doesn’t it? When I first saw it, I thought, “It’s covered in embroidery—maybe the previous owner remade it?” After all, not only is the entire garment embroidered with a pattern and adorned with beads here and there, but there’s even embroidery on the seams where the pieces are joined. I wondered if anyone would actually mass-produce such a labor-intensive garment as ready-to-wear. But as I collected a few pieces and researched them further, I began to think, “Actually, this might be an original design,” and revised my opinion.

—What kind of pattern is this?

I wonder what this is? It has designs that look like the sun and animals, right? I looked it up online and found out that in the vintage clothing market, this is apparently called a “mural print.” That said, I don’t think Chico’s actually came up with that name themselves—I believe it’s just a common term. The silhouette is quite slim, and the waist is tapered, so I’d say it’s a women’s style. The fit is just barely wearable for me, but if you’re on the slimmer side, a men’s size might work too.

—The other one is a bit tighter, but the pattern seems to have a slightly different style.

Is this a cityscape? It has that handmade, artisanal vibe—similar to what you’d find in Japanese brands like KAPITAL. I imagine many vintage clothing enthusiasts prefer one-of-a-kind custom pieces, but what’s interesting about this is that, despite that artisanal feel, it’s actually a mass-produced item.

Chico's Design Denim Jacket ¥ 11,000 (Sold Out)

—That element of surprise might be the biggest selling point.

It has a charmingly amateurish vibe, almost like something a child drew, while also evoking a Mexican or South American feel. To me, it looks really fresh. The fabric weight is light—more like a shirt jacket than a traditional jacket—so it’s easy to throw on, which is a big plus. The embroidery’s color palette evokes a Southeast Asian ethnic feel, while the buttons have a South American vibe. The way this single piece blends influences from various countries—along with a slight “mature woman” vibe—adds to its charm, so to speak.

—Maybe that’s why it has a certain charm that seems like it would fit right in at a location with a local feel like Shoin Shrine-mae.

That’s definitely true. Just because it’s vintage doesn’t mean it has to come with a lot of background stories or specialized knowledge—it’s the kind of appeal that’s immediately obvious at first glance. It’s similar to designer vintage, but it’s reproducible, and if you look hard enough, you can still find pieces like it. That balance is just right.

—If this were a bit bigger, it would probably get even more attention…

Hmm, I think that might be pretty difficult. Both of these are size 0, and Chiko’s items are basically only found in the women’s warehouse. To begin with, maybe there just aren’t many larger, curvier women in the brand’s target demographic—as is typical in the U.S.—so larger sizes just aren’t available. It’s hard to imagine that “Chico’s good sizes sold out because they’re too popular” (lol), so it’s possible there just aren’t that many in stock to begin with.

—Given the brand’s background, I think there’s also a certain hippie-inspired aesthetic, so perhaps that’s why men would deliberately choose to wear women’s clothing. After all, back in the day, there was a culture among fashion-conscious people where even men would deliberately wear women’s clothing.

I wonder about that (lol). In any case, with a design this bold, it doesn’t matter if the top is from a women’s collection, so it might be a good idea to deliberately incorporate it into an American traditional style. For bottoms, you could go with chinos or military pants. You introduce an item with such a strong presence—one that creates a sense of dissonance in an outfit that might otherwise feel too over-the-top—and then pair it with simple pieces. I think that little bit of spice, or that sense of dissonance, is what makes it fun.

Daiki Ishikawa / Owner of comp
The owner of “Comp,” which opened in June 2025 near the entrance to the shopping district in front of Shoin Shrine in Setagaya Ward, Tokyo—an area that has become a hotbed of competition among vintage clothing stores. Based on the concept of “cheap chic,” the store offers vintage clothing that visitors can enjoy casually, without worrying about trends or prices. As customers discover clothes that truly fit them, this newcomer shop is drawing attention from vintage beginners to industry insiders alike.
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