[Series 【: What Exactly Is “NEW VINTAGE”?] Vol. 141 “What’s Next After Rasler!?” What Is “Texas Stretch” from the 2000s?

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

Before we knew it, this series has reached its 18th season! In this 141st installment, we return for a second visit to “197,” a hidden gem of a shop located between Sangenjaya Station and Komazawa-Daigaku Station on the Den-en-toshi Line. What new vintage finds will the owner, Mr. Mochizuki, introduce to us this time!?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Kota Mochizuki / 197 Owner
Vol. 141: "Texas Stretch"—Wrangler's Stretch Jeans from the 2000s

Wrangler "Texas Stretch" Stretch Jeans ¥9,900(197)

—Let’s get right to it. What new vintages will you be introducing this time?

Following on from our previous post about Western boots, I’d like to highlight a pair of stretch jeans from Wrangler that go perfectly with them. They’re called “TEXAS STRETCH.”

—When it comes to the company's denim, it has a reputation as “jeans for real cowboys,” led by the iconic "13MWZ" model. What kind of model is this?

From the perspective of simply “stretch jeans,” we’ve carried them in our lineup since the 1980s, just like competitors such as Levi’s and Lee; however, this particular model dates from a slightly later period, around 2000. It’s a series that’s currently in production in the U.S. Although there are model numbers for each silhouette, they aren’t well-known enough to be recognized by their numbers—unlike the aforementioned “13MWZ”—so even in the U.S., it appears they’re referred to by the series name, much like the “Wrancher” series, which is also aimed at cowboys as a dressy option.

—Since you’re positioning yourselves as a brand for cowboys, do you have any distinctive features?

Now, let’s take a look at each part. Since these are designed to be worn by cowboys, they need to be both easy to move in and durable—hence the sturdy double-stitched side seams and a straight silhouette. The legs are gently tapered toward the hem, allowing the shafts of Western boots to fit neatly inside. These details certainly give the pants a distinctly cowboy-inspired look.

—What about the design aspects?

The front coin pocket also features a label, and the embossed leather patch with the brand logo on the hip pocket is slightly smaller than on the current model. Even when comparing this model, the current model, and a slightly older model, there don’t seem to be any significant differences in the details.

—If there aren't any standout details, the biggest selling point is definitely the stretch fabric.

They have just the right amount of stretch to allow for easy movement, yet they don’t have that flat, two-dimensional look typical of stretch jeans. I think that’s one of their standout features. With older stretch jeans, perhaps due to the subpar quality of the polyurethane yarn blended with the cotton or the dyeing techniques used, the color often fades in a flat, uniform way even after repeated wear. However, compared to those, this pair has a distinct variation in shade, giving it a look that’s close to what’s known as “super black.”

—I hear this is a series that’s still in production, but I’m also curious if there are other styles available.

The basic style is a clean, straight cut, though there also seem to be models with a slightly slimmer silhouette. As for colors, we’re featuring the black version here, but of course, blue jeans are also available. Even among the blue jeans, there are variations in shade, so there seems to be a wide range of color options. If you’re interested, please check the official website in the country of origin.

—Thin, straight hair, black. That might be the right choice.

〈Wrangler〉 black jeans are widely available and hold a solid, unshakable position as a staple in the vintage market. Given that, choosing the “Texas Stretch” black pair—which hasn’t quite made its mark yet—is definitely a great option. Plus, even though they’re described as slim-fit, they have a regular straight cut that adults can wear, so you can slip them on without feeling self-conscious.

—It seems like an interesting series, but I don't recall ever seeing "Texas Stretch" being promoted at Japanese select shops or anywhere else...

That's right. Possible reasons include the fact that "tight silhouettes aren't currently in style," and—based on the fact that the care label says "Made in Turkey"—I suspect it might be a European-designed item. If that's the case, since many shops source their merchandise from the U.S. or Asia, there's also the possibility that they simply "don't have the opportunity to stock it in the first place."

Indeed.

Besides, rather than going out of our way to source regular items from that era, there’s actually more demand for models from the ’80s and ’90s (lol). That said, as seen with the growing popularity of the sub-label “RUSTLER” in recent years, there’s a chance that items no one has paid attention to before might finally see the light of day. In any case, I think these are just the right kind of pieces for beginners to incorporate Western style into their fashion, so please give them a try!

Kota Mochizuki / 197 Owner
After branching out from the popular Setagaya select shop “fridge,” the business began operating as a vintage clothing store in 2023. On April 5, 2025, it opened a brick-and-mortar store under the name “197.” The shop is located along Route 246, roughly halfway between Sangenjaya and Komazawa. It’s on the fourth floor of a mixed-use building with a hard-to-spot entrance. You’ll be greeted by a 5-and-a-half-tatami-mat space packed to the brim with items centered around hippie and Western styles. The shop is open only on weekends; weekdays are by appointment only. Check their official Instagram for opening dates!
Instagram:@197_tokyo