What is the New Vintage anyway?
In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
The thirteenth installment is by Hajime Sakamoto of "instant bootleg store" (instant bootleg store).
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Hajime SAKAMOTO / President of instant bootleg store
Vol.13_Timberland Field Coat
-Now, what are the new vintage items you would like to introduce to us?
The theme of this issue is a brand that has been on my mind recently, "Timberland". When one hears the name Timberland, everyone associates the yellow nubuck "6-inch Premium Waterproof Boots" with the brand. For me personally, as well as for the HipHop generation who spent their youth from the 90s to the early 00s, these boots are icons. They are also known by the nickname "yellow boots. This time, however, I would like to introduce items other than the boots.
. - I occasionally see apparel in used clothing, but I am too impressed with the boots....
I know, right? I was like that, too, but my experience of seeing how timbers are used in the U.S. led me to think, "This could be interesting. I was also like that. In the U.S., I saw many 40-plus year olds wearing Timber apparel at supermarkets and outdoor stores in larger cities....
-I see. And you were shocked by the sight?
. I don't mean that at all (laughs). I simply thought, "Ah, that's how it is. It is an indisputable fact that African Americans brought the brand into the mainstream, but now it is recognized as so-called "everyday casual wear" that is worn not only by African Americans but also by white men. It is the same with L.L. Bean and Eddie Bauer. All of these brands were originally based in the context of the outdoors. I realized again that the outdoors has always been a major influence on the American casual fashion style.
-. yes, that's a big part of it.
Then I asked myself, "What is NEW VINTAGE? The choice of "Timberland" came naturally. Before,GAP" in this SeriesAs I mentioned in my previous article, it is not fashionable unless there are a certain number of items, and it is not worth digging for. In the first place, the word "vintage clothing" does not refer to a single "thing" but rather to a culture. Even if only iconic items gain popularity, it is difficult for them to become established. From this point of view, Timber has a large variety and quantity of items, and it is a good choice because it produces a wide range of items! For example, this one....
Timberland field coat ¥16,500-TAX IN each(Instant Bootleg Store)
-It's a field coat. The "typical" colors are also attractive.
This year this looked like a real good choice, and I had been collecting them as spring arrived. I first encountered this coat a few years ago when I saw one of my seniors selling it, and I thought it was a very modern silhouette, in line with the popularity of fishtails from mod parkas. There are also colors that are only available in that season, and the more you dig, the more fun it is to dig. . Then, let's pick one to try on.
Timberland field coat ¥16,500-TAX IN(Instant Bootleg Store)
-What a color scheme! What are some of the highlights in terms of details?
Wouldn't a slightly higher stand collar be better than a mod hoodie? . In this season, I recommend wearing it over a T-shirt with just the top button fastened. In the fall and winter, I would layer it with a sweatshirt hoodie and wear it with a deliberately heavy neckline. The zippy look gives off a great vibe, and it gives off the image of an old man walking around in the cold in an East Coast town in a heavy snowfall, which is very American and cool! Anyway, the convenience of being able to wear it in all three seasons except summer is also similar to the mod parka, and we are pushing it this season.
The logo on the back of the collar is also a good detail! I enjoy naming it "Back Woods" (laughs). (Laughs) I enjoy naming them "Back Woods." It's like a black culture lover gave them that name, right?
-street vibes, right , that kind of thing.
Another point is the quality label tag, which basically indicates the year of manufacture and the season in which the item was released on most items from the 1990s to the present day. This means that you can enjoy vintage clothing in the same way as we did with Patagonia's vintage clothing. Men, in particular, become more attached to things as they learn more about them, and that excitement leads to a desire to buy.
. - I know it seems a little difficult for the younger generation, but I think it makes vintage clothing more enjoyable when you know the ins and outs of it.
I have been looking at the vintage clothing scene for the past 10 years, and I have felt that the "existing way of enjoying vintage clothing" has reached a plateau. Even in video games, when a big RPG title was released, you were so into it that you thought, "I'm going to get to level 99! But then, all of a sudden, you get bored at level 75, don't you? (Laughs). (laughs). At that time, if you don't encounter a new title, you will leave the game itself. The current vintage clothing scene is like this. Both the sellers and buyers are changing generations, but I think there were many people who felt that there were no new encounters. I think it is important to find "new things that can be enjoyed in the existing way. In the culture of vintage clothing, "Timberland" has a lot of potential. I think it would be interesting to pay attention to this brand from now on.
Hajime SAKAMOTO / President of instant bootleg store
He worked in the vintage clothing industry for over 8 years at "BerBerJin" in Harajuku, Tokyo, where he also gained experience in buying. After that, he joined the select store "FAN". In 2020, he launched "instantbootlegstore" and has been involved in various projects. Hajime Sakamoto's store, which sells what he considers to be good quality items, is based on the theme of "a wonderful way to spend your allowance.instantbootlegstore."The first is.
Instagram:@hajime0722