MONCLER invited outstanding creators and designers from around the world to participate in the "MONCLER GENIUS" project, as if to celebrate their uniqueness. The project is also known for its inclusion of Hiroshi Fujiwara, Jonathan Anderson, Craig Green, and others.
One of these projects is . For those who don't know, the brand was born in 2018. The designer is Sergio Sambon, who has also worked for Fendi and Acne Studios.
The theme of the latest collection, which just launched this September, is "Tokyo Mindset. For this collection, Japanese brands such as "&Wonder" and "Suicok" were selected to create a selection of exclusive items. In addition, the down jackets and other outerwear essential to Moncler are named after Tokyo, which is another feature of the collection. What was the inspiration behind this pop and witty collection? We at HOUYHNHNM applied to Zambon for an e-mail interview.
PROFILE
Designer. Born in Egypt. Raised by an Italian father and Croatian mother, he studied fashion at the European Institute of Design. In 2018, he was appointed head designer of 2 Moncler 1952 Mann.
-I heard that you focused on the city of Tokyo for "2 Moncler 1952 Man". Could you tell us how and why?
I am a big fan of the vibrant megalopolis that is Tokyo. I am always fascinated by the style of Tokyo's youth and Japanese fashion brands. I am also fascinated by the progressive thinking as well as the visible cultural heritage.
-What have the collaborations with AND WONDER and SWITCOCK brought to the 2 Moncler 1952 Man wardrobe that you have created?
Since the Spring/Summer 2020 season, we have been collaborating with cities through our creators. Last year we chose LA, and this year we chose Tokyo. I love the minimal and functional style of [and Wonder] and the iconic sandals by [Swicok]. I love the sense of community that comes from the collaboration, both in the overall Moncler Genius project and in my collections. I enjoy working with different creatives, and I think it's positive to see how we influence each other through collaboration.
The collection visuals are a composite of photographs of Tokyo landscapes.
The down jacket worn by the model on the left is a collaboration item with "&Wonder.
Sandals made in collaboration with Suicok.
-What can you tell us about the idea of "rest" that you say is at the heart of your collection? Does it have to do with the past year and a half that people around the world have spent?
Closely related. In the middle of the pandemic, I was wearing [Birkenstock] shoes, cashmere socks, a tracksuit, and outerwear, going out to buy food, my only opportunity to go out. This is my way of life and my inspiration. And during that time, two factors were very important to me: sustainability and comfort. Unlike before, they are now key to creating projects.
-What is your current idea of "comfort"?
Comfort means going out in sporty sandals, a knit tracksuit, and a down jacket over it.
-What are the key elements of this collection?
Rather than a specific look or item, the color palette is the key. Green and black capes, minimalist and new approaches to color blocking, and pops of color. As you can see, I love to play with color. I believe that color can have a positive impact now that we are in the midst of a pandemic. I like to play with warm and cold color combinations and use color to represent different ages and styles.
A short movie of about 30 seconds expressing the world view of the collection.
-Do you have any personal episodes related to "Moncler"?
I remember that "Moncler" was a big hit in Italy in the 1980s in connection with the "Paninari" street movement. The fact that "Moncler" is an Italian brand shows how Italians are leading the way in contemporary luxury.
-How does the legacy of Moncler, founded in Monestier de Clermont, live on in 2 Moncler 1952 Man?
Several items are linked to the brand's heritage, for example, the updated fabric and silhouette of the iconic Moncler "Karakoram" jacket. I like the challenge of giving iconic down jackets a new image, and that's why I created this pop look. It's a challenge to evolve the Moncler style and carry on the tradition, but to do it in a completely new and contemporary way.
-Please tell us about one of your collaborators, Kalo Akpokyere, a graphic designer from Nigeria.
When I first saw him at the "Venice Biennale," I was fascinated by his reimagining of old Japanese graphics and thought it was perfect for this collection.
Akpokier created the American comic-like graphics for this down jacket.
-2 Moncler 1952 Mann uses fabrics and accessories that have a low environmental impact. The fashion industry is said to have a particularly large impact on the environment.
Sustainability is an ongoing process. We know that innovations are being created every day, like Vegan Mushroom Leather, and we strive to incorporate sustainable materials whenever possible.
-Mr. Zambon, you have worked for Fendi and Acne Studios. Please tell us about your ideal fashion designer or someone you admire.
I was also influenced by Yves Saint Laurent, streetwear and music, and I really admire the products of Craig Greene and Jonathan Anderson, who are involved in the "Moncler Genius" project.
2021 AW COLLECTION WITH "TOKYO MIND-SET
This season's theme is "Tokyo Mindset. The image of the metropolis through the filter of Zambon is expressed as graphical designs. Furthermore, one of the features of this collection is that it incorporates relaxed elements in keeping with the changing times. Here is a wardrobe with moderate functionality all at once.
BUNKYO
This down jacket, made in collaboration with "&Wonder," is coated with a highly reflective resin to create a reflector around the entire body. The inside is made of recycled nylon ripstop fabric, and straps are provided to allow the jacket to be hung over the shoulder.¥248,600
EDOGAWA
This one from AND WONDER is a hybrid model that uses recycled nylon ripstop fabric for the lower half of the body and partially reflector material for the upper half. The fact that both sleeves and the hood can be removed is also a nice touch. The model in the photo is available only at the online store.¥302,500
KUNITACHI
Reversible down jacket with a completely different impression on the front and back. The front side is printed with the work of Nigerian graphic designer Kalo Akpokyere. The comic-like work, which looks like a motif of the Moncler logo, is eye-catching. The reverse side, made of recycled nylon, is plain. The flap pocket and zip pocket on the reverse side are also very useful.¥336,600
TAMA
This down jacket is characterized by the way the body is quilted. The yoke is casually switched to a shiny nylon material, and the left sleeve has a logo in the same color as the body. The geometric design differs from Moncler's standard down jackets.¥218,900
This pair of work pants is an eye-catching, bold colorblocking arrangement. It is based on a thick cotton material, but expressed by combining it with Cordura nylon. Another key point is the use of reflector material on the piping and back hem. As mentioned in Zambon's interview, he is particular about the use of color.¥68,200
Authentic crew-neck long sleeve T-shirt in comfortable cotton jersey. It is decorated with "MONCLER 1952" graphics in different designs and has a slightly oversized, loose-fitting shape.¥51,700
The open-toe sandals teamed up with were based on the brand's signature work. By inserting natural rubber into the outsole, the sandals have a different feel and look than usual. Colors.Black baseand "Moncler".Mint green, exclusive to the online storelineup. Each ¥58,300
Photo_Kazuma Yamano (Still Life)
Text_Tatsuya Yamaguchi