Serialized 【, What's the NEW VINTAGE? Vol.109 How to twist it in your own way. Polo is "free to wear" in rugby.

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

Season 14 has restarted with a new store, and the 109th issue features Kobayashi of "Navy blazer store," which has been attracting attention in Gotokuji!　What kind of new vintage items will he introduce?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Kobayashi / Navy blazer store owner
Vol.109_Rugby Ralph Lauren corduroy pants and tie

What new vintages will you be introducing this time?

In the last issue, we talked about the importance our store places on the use of materials and color schemes that match the seasons of spring, summer, fall, and winter. I then introduced an item that is a constant and universal item that goes well with the navy blazer that is also the name of our store....

It was a hoodie from ZOO YORK. I was quite surprised that it was a gory New York scaab brand.

So this time, we would like to go with "RUGBY RALPH LAUREN" for items that go with a more straightforward navy blazer. I'm sure many of you remember this brand as it is still fresh in your mind, but it was the casual line of "Polo Ralph Lauren" that existed from 2004 to 2013, and developed a lineup that inherited the tradition and spirit rooted in the brand for the younger generation. The brand was also present in 2013.

When you made your debut in Japan, you attracted a lot of attention, didn't you?

That is! Initially, it was only available in the U.S. and landed in Japan in September 2010. The brand targets university students. The brand gained popularity as a brand that allows young people to enjoy traditional, Ivy, and preppy styles at a price they can easily afford.

Items with designs not seen in the original Ralph Lauren, such as embroidered skull motifs, are also attractive.

The skull motif is also a mark used by a secret society called "Skull and Bones" at Yale University. In rugby, chinos, button-down shirts, tote bags, and other items embroidered with the skull motif were popular. While the original Rugby brand was associated with the image of the well-behaved child of a good family, Rugby had a preppy, fun-loving spirit that was very fresh and new. It was also popular on the streets.

So, these corduroy pants seem to be a rather mature item...?

Rugby Ralph Lauren corduroy pants ¥8,800(Navy Blazer STORE)

These five-pocket pants have a button-fly with coin pockets, and the fabric is fine-ribbed, with a narrow silhouette. Thick-rowed pants are in the mood for fall and winter, but we recommend these pants because they can be worn all year round with thin-rowed fabric. The use of canned stitching instead of rivets is also lightweight, and the white color gives them a spring/summer feel. The regular price at the time was about 20-30% less than Ralph Lauren's, but the quality was almost the same.

I heard that Mr. Kobayashi was a former staff member of the Japanese flagship store "Rugby Cat Street," which used to be located at the current "Double R RL (RRL)" location.

Yes, I am a member of the opening staff! I joined the company as an opening staff member. At the time, the MD in charge of the store in Japan checked the outfits of the staff and gave us a wardrobe that suited each of us. In my case, the basic style was a fairly formal jacket. I would tie up my shirts.

The way the brand's worldview was presented was also very thorough. Another item was the necktie.

Rugby Ralph Lauren tie ¥8,800(Navy Blazer STORE)

This is a must-have item for American traditional style, especially regimen (regimental stripe) is a standard item. The embroidered skull motif, which was mentioned earlier, is handmade with a single point on it. Moreover, it is an authentic made-in-Italy item. Although ties are often thought of as an advanced item that is difficult to try, they are actually surprisingly easy since you can tie up a button-down shirt and wear it over a rugger shirt, or do whatever you like with it.

I remember the Ralph look from the 80's and 90's was like that. They were really cool, but I thought they were quite reckless in their combinations and styles. Is this a proposal for real clothes?

In fact, I've seen students do it with a flippant attitude like, "It's chilly after school club activities, so let's put on a rugger shirt too!" I think we have adopted this technique after seeing some students doing it in a casual manner. I also think it's a matter of "practicing ideas that other people can't come up with. When I was a member of the rugby staff, I learned from my boss that it is important to "give it a twist. In short, by adding a twist to a common idea or object, you can add originality and interest.

For example?

This is exactly what I did last time, incorporating a skate brand hoodie into a preppy outfit. Instead of wearing Converse All-Stars on their feet, they would often wear Vans or Nike low-top sneakers.

So, could you please try styling with the items you introduced this time as well?

First, a button-down dungaree shirt is tied up, then a rugger shirt is layered over it, and a navy blazer is added. The bottoms are corduroy pants with Nike running shoes, which I don't know what they are, and a cap and chief as a point of reference.

The collar of the shirt should be chosen with attention to detail. The shape and the openness of the collar will greatly affect how it looks, but for the average Japanese, a regular collar is the best choice, and you can also use a color bar to create a three-dimensional V-zone. In other words, Rugby Ralph Lauren items are perfect for enjoying yourself in your own way.

Kobayashi / Navy blazer store owner
Navy blazer store" opened in September 2022 in Gotokuji Market, which has a history of about 100 years in front of Gotokuji Station. As the name suggests, the concept of the store is "Navy blazer," and select items, including used and new items and sundries, are styled and presented.
Instagram:@navyblazer_store