In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
Season 14, which started with all new stores being replaced, is now in its second round! The 110th edition features Hiro of "marmalade" in Jiyugaoka. What new vintages will he introduce this time?
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Hiro / owner of marmalade
Vol.110_Nike Golf / Eddie Bauer / Patagonia Detachable Pants
-Please tell us about the new vintage you are introducing!
For the over-30s generation, the term "convertible pants" may be more appropriate.
Recently, I've been seeing a lot of releases not only from the vintage clothing industry, but also from street, outdoor, and sports brands.
That's right. This is a genre that our store specializes in, and I personally like to wear them a lot, so I picked them up for this issue. The most appealing feature is the interesting gimmick of being able to use them in both full-length and short length by detaching and attaching the hem, but the versatility of the design and silhouette to accommodate a variety of styles is also a highlight.
These items have a strong image from the 90's to early 00's. I wonder what kind of trend brought them back to the scene?
Although in its original context it was derived from the outdoor genre, I wonder if it is now attracting attention as a design-conscious item with the atmosphere of the time, partly due to the popularity of Y2K fashion. Personally, I think so. As for the first term, detachable means "detachable," and convertible means "convertible into multiple styles (usually two types)," so they are almost the same in terms of meaning. Incidentally, in the United States, the latter is often referred to as "zip-off pants.
It's very American, and the rationalism of two roles in one film is also very American.
I think it's a good idea. The U.S. is a large country, with time differences and different climates depending on the location, so these shorts can be used not only for outdoor activities such as hiking, but also for everyday situations such as travel, without being bulky and convenient. Also, since most of the zips are set at about half of the full-length length, I thought they would fit in with the recent trend for below-the-knee length shorts.
Yes, you have a point.
Also, since it will be hot in the coming season with the full-length garment, you can open the zip up to the middle of the garment with the hem still attached to allow for ventilation. This is also good for riding a bike, and it gives a bit of individuality, so I thought it would be a good way to wear it. However, I myself am afraid of losing the hem parts, so I honestly don't wear them with shorts (laughs).
(laughs). So, the first one we had prepared for you was "NIKE GOLF.
When playing a round of golf, it's a little chilly first thing in the morning, so full length. If it gets too hot while you are playing, you can change to shorts. However, since this is a "gentleman's sport", the shorts are tucked in and a bit stiff. The material is cotton, and except for the swoosh, there is no tech or Nike feel to them, which is also nice.
Nike Golf Detachable Pants ¥18,480(Marmalade)
They can be worn clean. White pants are a difficult bottom to wear, but if they look this worn-in and a little worn-out, you can wear them without hesitation. Next is Eddie Bauer, a classic outdoor brand.
Everyone loves cargo pants. Bauer's detachable pants have a strong travel nuance, and the cargo type is useful for reducing the amount of baggage. The material is 60% cotton, 40% nylon Rokuyon cloth, which is crisp and waterproof, and is useful for the coming rainy season. Judging from the tag, it must have been made in the late 90s.
Eddie Bauer detachable pants ¥18,480(Marmalade)
The shape of the pockets and the stitching that just barely falls into place along the curves are exquisite. The military ruggedness of the pockets has been restrained to create an urban and minimalist look.
Cargo pockets are gusseted, but not bulging. The zipper pulls have a military-like ruggedness, while the attached ring belt is classic. In this day and age, webbing belts are the norm, and if you are going to pursue convenience with detachable specifications, you may be asking yourself, "Why now? However, I think it is interesting to see the mismatch of details.
The right balance of arrangement is just right, he said. And the third item on the list is "Patagonia".
The period would be the 00s. The company currently releases a model called "Quandary Convertible Pants," which is a bit slimmer and quite stylish. In contrast, these pants have a modern and rugged atmosphere like the MARS series.
Patagonia Detachable Pants ¥21,780(Marmalade)
In terms of details, it looks more like a work or outdoor outfit than a military outfit.
The back pockets seem to be connected on both sides like the famous "Stand Up Shorts," and the L-shaped front pocket is easy to put your hand in. The rounded cane closure instead of a riveted closure shows a unique design aesthetic down to the smallest detail, which is very Patagonia-like. The unique hem silhouette is also unique, and can be adjusted to your preference when wearing the thicker, straighter version.
The side pockets on one side are placed at the hem below the knee, which makes them less sturdy when removed and used as shorts, which is also a curious feature.
It really is. And since the pockets are placed in such a way as to cut through the side seams on purpose, the question was, "Why add more pockets after increasing man-hours and raising costs?" I wondered. I also thought it would be a little difficult to use the pockets in this position because they cannot be opened and closed when the wearer is standing up (laughs).
The overall atmosphere is very good, though, isn't it?
I think the color, somewhere between khaki and coyote, will also resonate with those who like it. Whatever the case may be, I think this is an item that is just right for this time of year. The heat of summer has been brought forward, and they are convenient for the rainy season when it is damp and humid, while at the same time being in line with fashion trends. I think it is also important for the adult generation to be able to "make excuses.
What do you mean by "excuses"?
By choosing brands with a strong outdoor and sports background, you can say, "These are different from what the younger generation is wearing in the context of fashion. When someone says to you, "That's a fashion trend," you can say, "Oh, really? I just wear them because they are convenient. Excuses are important in adult fashion (laughs).
Hiro / owner of marmalade
He has been buying vintage clothing since his high school days and studied abroad in the United States during his college years. There, he was further immersed in American culture, including movies and music. After that, he worked as an intern at an advertising production company, but he could not give up his love for fashion and joined "ZOZO". She was in charge of purchasing and assessing used clothing in the company's used clothing department. After working at "Pocket," an accessory store on Harajuku's Tonchan Street, he opened "marmalade" along Jiyugaoka's Gakuen Street in 2023, selling vintage clothing and sundries mainly from the 90s, including outdoor and tech-related items purchased directly in the U.S. The store is located in the center of the city.
Instagram:@hmarmalade_jiyugaoka
