Items you can always get your hands on and keep wearing.
—Aside from the sleeve ribbing, could you tell me what other details you’re particularly fond of?
Genma: I still check UK e-commerce sites regularly, and whether it’s vintage or current-season items, if I find something in navy or black with a nice texture, I can’t help but buy it. The silhouettes used to be a bit boxier, but I think I prefer the current ones. Right now, I’m into wearing them slightly oversized.
—If you keep buying new items every season, won’t your collection just keep growing and growing?
Genma: I suppose I just like the idea of becoming obsessed with a single item and collecting more and more of it. There was a page in an old issue of *Brutus* that featured Giorgio Armani’s wardrobe. When I saw the photo of nothing but rows upon rows of navy cashmere sweaters, I thought, “That’s so cool”—and I think that’s the moment my mindset, which continues to this day, was formed.
—I see. I think "reproducibility" is a key concept, especially from the perspective of what is essential.
Genma: Take *Comme des Garçons* as an example—their fit basically never changes, no matter the era. So, if you bought a size L jacket five years ago, the size L jackets on the store shelves today will basically have the same fit. The same goes for John Smedley. I think it’s wonderful that you can add to your wardrobe every season.
“There’s a stylish piece mixed in here,” he said, picking up a custom-made model from *Undercover*. It features a small collar and three-quarter sleeves. “As expected, when Jonio-kun puts his own spin on it, it takes on a really stylish vibe,” remarked Genma.
—Do you feel that your tastes and sensibilities have changed since the past?
Genma: I believe people are meant to change. I’ve gone through various phases myself and have changed quite a bit. Still, I like the idea that there are some things that remain constant. When I thought about what those things might be, it turned out to be the knitwear that I’ve kept the longest.
—It seems that his life in the UK and the experiences he gained there played a significant role.
Genma: That’s right. If it weren’t for that, I might not have gotten this hooked on it. I was drawn to its roots—its connection to Mods and various other subcultures, and the fact that the tags still say “MADE IN ENGLAND.” I think I have a visceral memory of all that.
When you think of Mr. Genma, black and navy are the colors that come to mind. But on this particular day, when I peeked under the table, I was surprised to catch a glimpse of camouflage cargo pants. The texture made me assume they were vintage, so I asked him about them. “They’re actually a new pair from *Komori* that just arrived,” he said. “The strap is a nice touch—it’s designed so you can attach a wallet chain.”
—Do you ever stray to other brands’ knitwear?
Genma: I tried out some brands that are considered luxury brands, but in the end, I came back to John Smedley. Their stuff is incredibly stylish, but maybe that’s exactly why it just doesn’t quite feel right. After all, I’m strictly a behind-the-scenes guy. There’s a stylist I’ve been working with for a long time, Carl Templer. One time, he pointed out to a PR agency staffer who showed up on set dressed in trendy clothes, “Since you’re behind the scenes, you should be dressed head-to-toe in black or navy, just like Daisuke and me.” And it’s true—I naturally end up dressing like this. That said, it’s not that “since I’m a behind-the-scenes guy, I have to dress this way”—it’s just that this style feels most natural to me.
—In the interview, you also mentioned, “It’s important to keep an open mind and not assume that ”because it’s this kind of item, only this kind of person should wear it.’”
Genma: Having an open mind is really important. I tend to think, “You shouldn’t wear this,” or “You shouldn’t mix that with this,” but then I also think, “Does it really matter?” Even with John Smedley, culturally speaking, Mods used to wear their clothes, but even if you wore one of their knits today, I bet no one would even notice. I think there’s something to be said for that anonymity. If you’ve never tried one on, I really hope you give it a go. It’s truly addictive.
—Anonymity can sometimes feel like a lack of individuality, but that’s exactly why you can wear it however you like. If you have any tips on how to style a long-sleeve polo shirt, please let me know.
Genma: First, button it all the way up, then roll up your sleeves just a little. I think there’s a certain fetishistic element to this. Alternatively, it looks good to wear it long enough so that the base of your thumb is hidden by the cuffs.
—One last question. What does “essential” mean to you, Mr. Genma?
Genma: If we define the act of breathing—and the air we need to survive—as truly essential, then perhaps the things I consider essential are those I can relate to on that same level. You could say they’re a bit closer to me and fit me better than the usual “standards.”
—Is that different from what’s commonly referred to as a “lifetime piece”?
Genma: I don’t really believe in the idea that you can keep using a single item forever. If anything, I think that some consumable items are actually built to last a lifetime. It’s precisely because you can always get your hands on them, keep wearing them, and keep using them that I think they can be called “essentials”—things that are indispensable to me. Is that an okay answer?
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