PROFILE
Born in 1977, he started "NEXUSVII." in 2001 in N.Y. He opened a new store at Shibuya PARCO, which reopened in November 2020. In January last year, "NEXUSVII. x GREGORY EXLUSIVELY FOR URBAN RESEARCH" became a big hit.
PROFILE
Born in 1977, he started his career as a freelance buyer in 2011. He is one of the most trusted vintage buyers in Japan, not only from vintage clothing stores, but also from many select stores and brands. He also has his own store "Mr. Clean" in Oku-Shibuya.
PROFILE
Born in 1977, he is known as an advisor to the L.A. denim brand YANUK, and is also the supervisor of "Levi's VINTAGE DENIM JACKETS Type l/Type ll/Typel lll", the culmination of the recent G-Jan boom. He is also the supervisor of "Levi's VINTAGE DENIM JACKETS Type l/Type ll/Typel lll," which is a compilation of the recent G-Jan boom.
PROFILE
Born in 1976. He has been involved in men's fashion magazines as an editor and writer, and is an expert in handling many articles related to vintage clothing. Currently, he is in charge of e-commerce, company newsletters, event planning, etc. at the apparel manufacturer "World. He is also known as a collector of vintage bandanas.
first lecture
Tomohiro Konno
'40s ROYAL AIR FORCE WOOL COAT MADE BY BURBERRY
Konno: The first is an RAF (Royal Air Force) wool coat, both of which were manufactured by Burberry and still have the inner tags.
Abe: Where did you get it?
Konno: Both are "Brackets" (a vintage store in Oku-Shibuya).
Fujiwara: What decade is it from?
Konno: The tag also has the date 1943.Aug.13, so it was probably made around the 1940s. Even if it is made by Burberry, when it comes to the ones for officers and other executives, metal buttons are mainly used, with the RAF stamped on them. However, I thought that would give too solemn an impression and would be difficult to use for street wear.
Kurihara: So there are two types of molds?
Konno: Yes, yes. But in common, the front opening is slightly offset. The Burberry coats that use this gray or air force blue fabric seem to be generally RAF coats. In addition, the handwarmer pocket flaps are slanted on the executive version as well, which is another common element.
Abe: Is this model without metal buttons made for people of lower rank?
Konno: What do you think?
Kurihara: I wonder if this is an official delivery item, not something that was ordered by an officer? If it is a delivered item, I think it should have some kind of specifications (model number, etc.).
Konno: Indeed. Maybe there's a possibility of an order.
Abe: By the way, how much does it cost?
Konno: The price for both is a little over 100,000 yen. However, the price of "Burberry" made in the U.K. has been soaring to an extraordinary level recently, so the price may still be reasonable.
Fujiwara: Are there any other models of this model that are not made by "Burberry"?
Konno: Maybe there is, but I don't think I have seen it so far.
Abe: Are there any other military items made by "Burberry"?
Konno: In the British military, there seems to be a long gown-like coat with no buttons on the front opening and only a belt to fasten it.
Abe: Like a tie-locken (a coat that locks at the waist tie)?
Konno: It's close, but the shape is different from the so-called "Burberry" tie-locked coat.
Abe: That's right.
Konno: Yes, I have seen it before as a personal item of Nigel Cabon (British Heritage designer). I had seen it before as something that belonged to Nigel Kevon's (a British heritage designer) personal effects. I think it was probably from the Navy as the body was navy.
Kurihara: This offset is also still distinctive.
Konno: It's a strange shape, isn't it? And European clothes are so well tailored that you can learn a lot about how to use a hair core.
I found it at a time when I was looking for something that looked like a mutant."
'80-'90s Levi's GALANTIC WASH DENIM JACKET & JEANS
Konno: The second is the bleached version that Levi's introduced in the 1980s. The line is characterized by detailed bleaching like a starry sky.
Fujiwara: How did you make these? Did you bleach them one by one with spray or something?
Abe: Aren't they bleached at the fabric stage?
Konno: No, I think it is post-processing as some of the faded areas cross over the parts.
Abe: Wow. That's very elaborate. Do you have a series or line name?
Konno: I've seen images of flashers online before, but I've forgotten (laughs). (It seems it was developed under the name "GALACTIC WASH" / researched by editorial staff)
Abe: (Laughs). But the fact that this was released inline as a product, not fan-made, is interesting in itself. How did you find it?
Konno: I was looking for something with a different weave from common blue denim, like stripes or herringbones, and I asked a friend of mine at a vintage clothing store to take a look when I was buying, but there were surprisingly few of them.
Abe: Is it 80s?
Konno: Maybe there are 90s, but what do you think?
Kurihara: If it is 80s, it was made in 1988, and if it is 90s, it was made in 1998 (looking at the inside tag). I can read from this 058 that it was made in May '08, but I'm pretty sure it was made in '88 based on the other details.
Abe: That's as good as it gets. What number is the 527 in front of it?
Fujiwara: It is identical to the number stamped on the back of the top button.
Abe: What does this number mean after all? Is it a factory as some say?
Kurihara: At this stage, I think the factory theory is the most plausible. (See Mr. Abe's version for details.)
Fujiwara: I have two pairs of pants myself, but you can hardly find them nowadays, and I think they were probably only available for a few seasons.
Kurihara: Well, you don't see them. I don't remember selling most of them either.
Abe: Price-wise?
Konno: I've seen them for around 20,000 yen. But if (Fujihara Yutaka) wears them, the price will go up immediately, so I'd rather he didn't (laughs).
