Vintage Summit 12: A Vintage Summit of the industry's leading eccentrics.

Konno:. The first one is a vintage varsity jacket. （Two of the jackets (left and middle) are the old type with button holes, commonly called "button studs," and the other one is a common snap-button type. I pulled them out of storage in the hope that they would be of some use in making varsity jackets for my own brand, but unfortunately, I had no particular success this time (laughs).

Fujiwara:The botasuta is 50's and the other one is probably 30's, and the snap button version is around '50s or '60s, I guess.

Abe:Brand.

Konno:Two of them have tags, but they are for the brand "Sandknit" and the retailer, while the other one is missing the brand tag and has only the size label.

Kurihara:Indeed, the tag around the neck only shows the name of the retailer, not the manufacturer, but the tag attached to the pocket indicates that it was made by Holloway, a company often seen on varsity jackets from the '80s.

Fujiwara:This untagged one feels to the touch and does not seem to be a mere melton.

Kurihara:Indeed . It's a little bit like a sweatshirt.

Konno:. yes, yes. It has underarm gussets and is made with mobility in mind, so it's kind of a mix between a sweatshirt and a jacket.

Kurihara:. In fact, the composition is knit-like and different from a mere melton.

Konno:The composition is totally in the knit category.

Abe:Why are you re-focusing on this area now?

Konno:Although it was not a hint for the production of the jacket, when I looked at it again, I thought the faded look of the body was interesting. Today, dyeing techniques and the quality of dyes have evolved, so the only way to express the faded, sunburned look unique to vintage jackets is to process them as much as possible.

Abe:I see.

Kurihara:The most common detail of old varsity jackets is the buttonhole design, but there are far fewer of these really old jackets on the market to begin with. However, even newer jackets, such as Champion's 70's jackets, are not completely devoid of buttonhole pockets, so patch pockets may be the most easily identifiable detail of the jacket's age.

Fujiwara:If you look at old magazines, they have gone out of their way to say that "all botastas were made before the '50s," but there are certainly exceptions to this rule at all.

Konno:Patch pockets are now a part of the varsity jacket.

Abe:Is there a clear difference between this on the East Coast and the West Coast?

Fujiwara:What do you think?Made in Canada, Abe's favorite.is almost always all-leather, but it is common (laughs).

Abe:That's right (laughs). But why is it all leather when it's made in Canada?

Kurihara:After all, it is thermal protection, isn't it?

Konno:It's simple, but that line seems likely. . and when I think of Canada, I think of cold.

Kurihara:Varsity jackets also seemed to be stuck for a while, but only recently have they started to move.

Fujiwara:Indeed . I have the impression that it has been getting a little more attention in the last few years.

Kurihara:Like the derby jackets, perhaps this is resonating with a generation that is not afraid of ribbed hems. Also, the three models you showed us today are all unlined and have set-in sleeves.

Konno:As it happens, I do indeed see more rayon-lined and raglan-sleeved jackets from the '60s onward. However, you really don't see the older varsity jackets, do you?

Kurihara:Yes, that's right. As with military items, many Americans keep these college-style outerwear as souvenirs even if they don't wear them on a regular basis, so they tend to appear at estate sales more often than rugs and thrift items. I think they are not on the market because there are not many people who are willing to part with them.

Abe:Oh, well . I don't keep my work as a keepsake, do I?

Konno:. Next is a hand-knit couchin. I found a rare vest type on a recent business trip to the U.S. , so I brought it along with me.

Fujiwara:Vests are indeed rare. But the sizes are generally small around here, aren't they? Are there any big ones?

Konno:. You don't see them when you get to be this age. I tried to make one for my own brand before, but when I got around to it, it turned out to be incredibly expensive. But I had always wanted a vest type, so I was lucky to find one by chance.

Abe:Swastika (a Native American good-luck motif that means "Life," "Love," "Luck," and "Light"; used from the 1880s to the mid-1930s, but eliminated during World War II because it looked like the Nazi swastika). Does that mean before the '40s?

Konno:I'm sure you're right. And it looks like many of the swastikas were burned during the Great War.

Kurihara:Is it made in Canada?

Konno:I wonder.

Kurihara:The word "swastika" also seems to include Harkenkreuz in a broader sense, so it seems to have fallen out of use in the West.

Abe:. yes, I know. What can I say?

Kurihara:With Whirling Log, it doesn't seem to be a problem.

Konno:I bought two cowhines from the same seller, one with this swastika motif and one with a swallow motif knitted into it, and I was told that swallows, because of their biology, have a meaning such as going to war and coming back safe and sound. . I believe it was a pawn store in the Gallup, New Mexico area.

Abe:Heh, that's the kind of message you're trying to convey.

Kurihara:So maybe it is made in the US, not Canada. And I don't see the image of swastika in Canadian aboriginal people.

Konno:. maybe. Also, according to what I heard there, the shawl collars that don't have the front part of the shawl collar attached are older, and the ones that do are newer than that.

Abe:Heh . This means it's old because it's not combined.

Konno:Yes, the seller told me that he knitted it himself in the '30s, about 20 years ago . But I gave the swallow motif to a friend, and now I only have this swastika.

Kurihara:On the other hand, the fact that you don't see zip-up type cowhats with very old zippers on them suggests that the pullover type was probably more common than the zip-up type before the '40s.

Konno:Indeed . Maybe the prototype was a pullover. Well, the vest type has a Lightning Zip (the oldest zipper brand in the U.K., with a strong influence from the British occupation of Canada, which became a de facto independent nation in 1931), and I think it is definitely Canadian-made, but maybe it is not that old in terms of age.

Kurihara:Lightning is also an old one with a U-shaped clasp (U-shaped clasp located at the top of the zipper), so it's probably later , around the '60s.

Abe:Not much interest in golf patterns, totem pole patterns, or other so-called kit-type couches?

Konno:No, at one time I had a good collection of them, but eventually I kept only the wolf-patterned wooden gray body and gave away the others.

Abe:A wooden gray wolf pattern is pretty rare, isn't it?

Konno:Yes, I think so. There are two kinds of gray, a solid gray and a heathery wooden gray. I had three colors on hand: black, wooden gray, and light blue, but only the wooden gray is rarely seen, so I kept that one.

Abe:I see a lot of them, and I don't get the impression that they are that overpriced, but how much do wolf patterns still cost?

Fujiwara:Do I get the impression that even 50,000 is pretty cheap?

Abe:That's right.

Kurihara:Well, cowhide is hand-knitted and is quite expensive to buy new in the current version, so it can be said that even vintage items are inexpensive except for some rare patterns, and basically, knitwear is a good value category when it comes to vintage clothing considering the cost.

Konno:The next model is the WEP, or G-8 by Spiewak, which comes in three types: one with ribbed hems, one with ribbed hems, and one with a slightly longer length without ribbing. Since "Supreme" released a photo T of skater Mark Gonzalez wearing the latter type without ribs, which was also nicknamed "Gonz Jacket" by some fans, it has been called "Gonz Jacket" by some fans. Since Supreme released a photo T of Mark Gonzalez wearing a skater's portrait taken by photographer Ali Markopolos, it has been nicknamed "Gonz Jacket" by some fans.

Abe:Which one is this?

Konno:. This is the regular with ribbed hem. I used to have a long one without ribbed hem, but I gave it away to a friend, and these days I wear the regular one with ribbed hem.

Abe:Is it getting expensive around here already?

Konno:Stores that recognize Gonz Jacket are pricing it accordingly, so there is still some variation in the market.

Kurihara:. but it is almost 30 years old now, so I wouldn't be too surprised if it is treated as vintage.

Abe:Well, yes, that's right. At the time, you were also released under a double name with "Supreme," weren't you?

Konno:Yes, that's right. It seems that back then, they were frequently doing OEM and double name work with Stussy and Supreme. It seems that Spiewak's manufacturing had a high affinity with the street, and since the brand was founded in Brooklyn, it may have felt familiar to them.

Editorial:The G-8, which was double-named with Supreme, was produced in very small numbers at the time, and recently fetched as much as 100,000 yen.

Abe:Wow, that's great, I think they also released N-3Bs and M65s back then, but they certainly had a more modern image than the originals, maybe more of a street impression.

Konno:When I was in high school, the Titan cloth version of the "Spiwak" was very popular, but as you said, it looked very different from the original. Titan cloth itself was said to be resistant to melting or damage even if a cigarette was held against it for several seconds, and it certainly had a more modern image than a real flight jacket.

Fujiwara:. but it is actually a brand with quite a long history.

Konno:Yes, that's right. They used to supply the military with jerkin vests (leather vests used by the British and U.S. armies during World War I) and four-pocket pea coats. The company was founded in 1904, so it has been in business for more than 100 years, making it a surprisingly old brand.

Kurihara:Yes, that's right. I have the image of a brand that used to make many items for police and uniforms other than military items.

Abe:How much would you charge, Mr. Chestnut?

Kurihara:. what do you think? But if it is the long black one that Gonz was wearing, I would pay more than that.

Fujiwara:If I remember correctly, the longer length models are labeled "L" (long) on the tag.

Konno:. I see. I knew you were completely military in origin.

Konno:Lastly, two oddball 90's pieces from Ralph Lauren. Ralph Lauren has always been one of my favorite brands, but I have only kept a few rare items. I think this combination down jacket is also quite a rare model. The only other time I've seen this jacket around is when the martial artist, Kaoru Uno, owned a reverse version of this jacket.

Abe:. yes, it is. When was it from?

Konno:Just '90. There is a similar model with a Native American rug pattern, but this combination type with leather has never appeared. The type itself seems to be a standard item that has been available for many years, and this is a variant of it.

Fujiwara:. This is a model that seems to be very expensive right now. Well, Ralph Lauren itself has seen its oddball models skyrocket in recent years, and there don't seem to be very many of them to begin with.

Konno:. seems like it's skyrocketing worldwide. I didn't bring it today, but you know those swing-top jackets with chin straps that used to be common in outlets and such? I recently found that black denim type and bought it because it was also quite rare.

Fujiwara:I have never seen black denim. Is the chest pony red?

Konno:Yes, a red pony . I hear that the price of the Snow Beach series has gone up to unaffordable nowadays.

Abe:Wasn't it reprinted a few years ago?

Konno:There was. But it seems that this A-1 (deck jacket adopted in the '60s by US Navy) type was never reissued.

Abe:Is this a later collection than that RL-92 series?

Konno:92-93 why might it be covered?

Abe:The RL-92 series looks like the work of Michael Tapia (who was hired by Ralph Lauren in '91 and founded Polo Sport in '93), but Snow Beach is another designer?

Konno:No, this is also Michael Tapia's work. I think the entire line was left to him at that time. However, rather than focusing on him, I think the evaluation of the brand during this period was still unusually high, and the street gang = Low Life, who fanatically collected mainly the '92-'93 collection in the U.S., is also well-known.

Abe:. In Japan, too, I have a strong image that it was worn by people in the hip-hop community at that time.

Konno:Exactly...like the people around ZOO.

Abe:. yes, yes. How much does this A-1 type cost?

Konno:. it still looks like about 300-400,000.

Abe:Eh.... You do that much?

Konno:Still, he seems to be the calmer one these days (laughs). If it had been a few years ago, at the time of the global boom, it probably would have been flat at almost double that amount.

Abe:Wow. That's amazing. Is there any factor that has calmed down that boom?

Konno:I was told that the number of balls themselves is overwhelmingly small and that there is now a sense that they have been spread out within the mania.

Kurihara:Also, the fact that it was reprinted is probably one factor.

Konno:Yes, it is.

Kurihara:The NASA-motif space-suit-like jacket from Polo Jeans is also ridiculously priced, isn't it?

Konno:That one is unusually expensive too (laughs).

Kurihara:It's also interesting to note that it has a Polo Sport patch on it, even though it's under the Ralph Lauren name.

Kurihara:My first one is an ECWCS (US Army layering system used since the '80s), a liner jacket worn inside a Gore-Tex parka, and I recently acquired what I believe to be a test sample of it. I recently acquired what I believe to be a test sample of this jacket. I believe that there are many of the models that were actually used, and that they are still relatively inexpensive.

Fujiwara:The general supply is black on the body and pockets , and the material is synthetic fiber.

Kurihara:. yes, that's right. And the sleeve adjusters were also removed from the jacket. . but this is the first fleece jacket introduced in the US military history as far as I know. However, this model was the first fleece item introduced in the US military history as far as I know, and considering that outdoor pile jackets of this age are highly appreciated, I think this one should be appreciated a little more.

Abe:Where did you get it?

Kurihara:I believe it was supposed to be mixed in with the supplied items that were lined up at the U.S. Army Navy Store. It wasn't a very popular model to begin with, so I didn't pay much attention to it when I found it, and then I realized, "What the heck is this? I didn't pay much attention to it when I found it, and then I realized, "What's this? But recentlyPrevious Vintage SummitI began to be interested in things that were unfinished and slightly inert before the '90s, such as "Synergy Works," which I brought to the "K" exhibition at the "K" exhibition.

Konno:Conversely, after the '90s, they would never use a fabric that is this prone to furballs, and it is certainly inert and fresh. . However, this is a piece that has a strong documentary meaning, and I don't know how to put a price on it. How much is it now if it's a supplied item?

Kurihara:You are also offering about $8,000 for a dead one.

Konno:8,000 yen for a dead one (laughs). That's too much for military.

Kurihara:Considering the balance between performance and price, it is certainly a steal, and I think it would be a good choice now, including the sizing and a bit of a wild look.

Abe:Do you wear these without putting them in the store?

Kurihara:Yes, it is.

Fujiwara:It's simple , and it looks good on you.

Kurihara:After all the talk about how unpopular it is, I'm not at all happy to hear that (laughs).

All:(Laughter)

Kurihara:. again, in the pile vein. I brought some strange pile wear from a brand called "Seatech. I got the tuna ones in the U.S. a few years ago and used to wear them as loungewear in the middle of winter sometimes (laughs).

Konno:You were wearing it?

Kurihara:Yes, I have. . this one has a cute little butt (laughs). At first, I didn't pay any attention to the brand or the origin, but when I found this vest type at the 25th anniversary sale of "Desert Snow" the other day, I got curious and did some research.

Abe:What brand is it?

Kurihara:It's a scuba or marine sports equipment type brand. They have experience delivering to Navy SEALs (U.S. Navy Special Forces) and were established in LA in '69, but they didn't seem to make a lot of this kind of clothing.

Abe:I see. Is it a brand that still exists today?

Kurihara:Yes.

Konno:I think it's from the end of the '70s. It looks just like the pile texture that Patagonia was using at the same time. Even the color is the same.

Kurihara:I think the fabric itself is probably exactly the same. Patagonia] I have always wanted to buy a pile jacket or vest from the early white tag era, but I never had a chance to buy one, and in the past few years, they have become well known in the U.S. and their prices have skyrocketed. They are now more highly valued in the U.S. market than in Japan.

Abe:How much is it trending in your home country?

Kurihara:Whether or not they actually sell at that price, I'm often told about $1,000 for a young dealer to have it.

Abe:You do that much.

Konno:The other day I saw a seller offering a white tag era hooded, and I asked the price just to be sure, and he said $2,500....

Abe:Heehee . It's amazing. Just a few years ago, you could have gotten one for 200,000 yen.

Fujiwara:. right? However, just because the purchase price is $2,500, it is another story whether it can be sold for 400,000 yen in Japan.

Kurihara:Well, in light of this current situation, when I find a slightly different pile, I try to buy it as much as possible these days.

Konno:. You look cute, by the way. You should wear this next time (laughs).

Kurihara:(Laughs) . Well, if you wear a monster parka or something on top, you can wear it around town (laughs).

Kurihara:. followed by three shirts that I recently acquired. I have been looking for them for many years, of course, but as a seller of used clothing, I think that shirts are still inexpensive, or at least affordable. While the prices of denim, sweatshirts, and other high street items have skyrocketed across the board, there is not much difference in the price of shirts from a decade ago, and I think they are still a genre that people can actually enjoy wearing.

Fujiwara:. yes, I agree. . on the other hand, now may be the last time to aim.

Kurihara:Yes, that's right. Recently, many people of our generation have started to give up their old clothes. I can understand why people would want to part with their old clothes, given the current high prices. Well, putting that aside, the three pieces I brought today are generally from the '50s and '60s: the first is a black gingham from "Hercules," the second is a gray chambray from "Langler," which seems to be from the '50s, although the tag is missing and the brand is unknown, and the last is a gray chambray from "Langler. The second one is a grey chambray, and the last one is a '60s denim western by "Wrangler". What other ginghams does "Hercules" have, besides the red and black one?

Fujiwara:I think it was black and yellow and black and green.

Abe:It's not pure gingham, but there's also red and yellow. I saw that at some store recently, but it was less than 30,000 or so, and as Chestnut says, shirts may indeed still be a genre that can be enjoyed.

Kurihara:Yes, I have. I've wanted this black and white since I was a teenager, but the timing was never quite right, and I finally got it over 30 years ago.

Fujiwara:But it's still long, right?

Kurihara:No, not really. I still don't care about the length of the dress as much as I used to.

Konno:Of these, this black-and-white is the least common, and when it does appear, I get the impression that it is the most expensive.

Kurihara:Yes . . but when you compare the relative number of balls to the market price, it is still much cheaper than other genres.

Konno:Because if a professional buyer of Kuri-chan's class has been looking for it since he was a teenager and finally got it recently, that's self-evident.

Abe:Sorry to rehash this a bit, but how old are the people around you who are starting to give up their old clothes?

Kurihara:They are from the same generation as us to about 4 or 5 years older than us. Not all apparel workers make their living from secondhand clothing like we do, and many items are several times more expensive than they were when we bought them.

Abe:I see. You've been looking for Wrangler denim for a long time, too?

Kurihara:I was looking for something just like this. I was looking for a pair from this era, and I was looking for a pair from the '70s or later, but the collars were too big and the colors were too bad. I think this is the ideal shape for a denim western.

Fujiwara:. and it's wide, too.

Abe:But loop shirts from around the '50s and '60s are going through the roof, aren't they?

Fujiwara:Indeed . Especially with the black and white ombre check, it comes with something like 150,000.

Abe:Was that something to do with that?

Konno:There are some vintage clothing YouTubers putting up videos with great prices, so maybe there is some influence from that.

Kurihara:It seems that board shirts from Pendleton and ombre checks cost 40,000 to 50,000 at the most expensive places.

Abe:That's great (laughs).

Fujiwara:When our company (Berberzine) and Fake Alpha merged, we found a large amount of "Pendleton" from a warehouse in the U.S. We did not carry it at the time, and Fake Alpha did not want it, so we sent about three packets of it to other stores.

Konno:. If I had it now, I would have had a lot of money. Pure Vintage itself is at a premium in the U.S., isn't it?

Kurihara:Yes, that's right. For example, the price of a sweatshirt parka (a sweatshirt parka with a hood attached after the hood) in the U.S. nowadays starts at $3,000 to $5,000, and simply because the yen has depreciated considerably over the past few years and prices have risen due to inflation in the local market.

Abe:I'm guessing that $5,000 in purchases means $750,000 in simple math. . That is certainly extraordinary.

Kurihara:. The fourth is a colored denim-type jacket. Like the previous work shirt, this jacket can still be worn and enjoyed as secondhand clothing. While denim jackets of about the same age cost hundreds of thousands or even millions of dollars, I think this is one of the categories where it is still easy to get a good one at a reasonable price range.

Konno:. that's a thing. The relative number of balls may be small, but I get the impression that colored denim is much cheaper. Where are these Katsuragi's from?

Kurihara:This was bought from a dealer in the US last year , no tags , brand unknown.

Konno:I have seen the exact same type of "101". The pleats on the front openings of "Headlights" and "Carhartt" are also inward-facing, while other brands tend to be outward-facing.

Kurihara:I think they were probably produced by a major factory, and each brand put their own tag on them and put them on the market. However, the denim type of the same model is often seen even now, and I am not that interested in it as a thing, but this Katsuragi type was the first time I saw it, and I decided to buy it immediately for about $250.

Abe:What about this satin Wrangler over here?

Kurihara:. This is also a 33MJZ that I found at the Desert Snow 25th anniversary event. Most of the zip-front Wrangler jeans, whether denim or satin, come in small sizes like 36 or 38, but this one is a 46. I thought that, in addition to the fact that my body shape has changed over the years, I would like to have a size like this if I were to wear it as I do now. The price is 60,000 yen, which is quite reasonable considering the rarity of the item.

Konno:Is 33MJZ still one of the cheaper colored denims from " Wrangler"?

Fujiwara:Yes, that's right. First of all, a denim (11MJZ) of the same size (46) and model would cost about 158,000 yen in mint condition, depending on the age, and a black (66MJZ) would probably cost about 1,500,000 yen.

Konno:I knew black was exceptional.

Fujiwara:Yes, that's right. Denim has been on the rise at Wrangler over the past three years or so.

Editorial:Why is black exceptional?

Konno:It seems that the red jackets, also known as "champion jackets," were given out to the winning cowboy teams at the tournament, but only the black ones were for referees, and it is said that the number of balls themselves was overwhelmingly small. It seems that there was no general sale of the jackets, and the larger sizes are even less common.

Fujiwara:The Wrangler is black, and the Lee is even less so.

Konno:Yes, I do. Speaking of Lee, I'd like to get a black Chetopa (a durable twill work jacket that Lee introduced in the '50s), but I don't see any.

Fujiwara:Yes, I agree. Especially black and gray are hard to find. There are a few green ones out there.

Konno:(Chetopa) Do you also have pants in black?

Fujiwara:I haven't seen the pants yet.

Kurihara:Well, maybe black workwear itself was never in demand in the first place.

Abe:Maybe so.

Fujiwara:My first pair is a pair of Levi's 501XX. I would like to introduce this faded denim, but I also brought a dark blue denim of a different age for easy comparison.

Fujiwara:I have discovered a new fact that was not known at the time of the release of "THE 501®XX A COLLECTION OF VINTAGE JEANS," which I supervised in the past.

Abe:What do you mean?

Fujiwara:The dark blue one here is a 1937 model, but at the time of "THE 501®XX A COLLECTION OF VINTAGE JEANS," its successor was commonly referred to as the "Great War Model," a model sold under wartime material control. The "Great War Model" was sold from 1942 to 1946, and was the first model sold during the war. It is now known that the 1942 model was manufactured from 1942 to 1946, but it is also known that the 1942 model was only available for a few months between the 1937 model and its predecessor, the 1942 model.

Abe:Is that the one that this drilled in?

Fujiwara:Yes, I have a dead stock of this model. I acquired this model several years ago, but the other day, I found a dead stock of this model. The flasher is clearly marked "1942". As for details, the cinch back on the back is a black buckle, and before that, i.e., up to the predecessor 1937 model, they were all silver. Also, while the waist yoke on the back is sewn from the bottom on other models, it is sewn from the top only on this model and the transitional models before and after it.

Abe:Doesn't that vary from factory to factory or something?

Fujiwara:I asked Levi's, but they said they didn't know.

Konno:Was it manufactured for one year in 1942?

Fujiwara:The copy right on the flasher clearly states "1942," but since the military's control of supplies began in August, I suspect it was only manufactured for a maximum of eight months, from January to August. However, we know that the slightly thicker denim fabric seen in the World War II models was already used in this 1942 model. . We can see that some of them are following the World War II specifications.

Abe:Are there other irregularities?

Fujiwara:Yes , I see on the 1937 model that the hidden rivet clasps on the hip pockets use the same clasps as the front rivets. Moreover, although it is not legible on this unit, the patch on the first units clearly says "501XXC". I asked Levi's what the "C" stands for, and they told me that it is an acronym for concealed rivet. On the other hand, the 1942 model changed to a slightly thicker iron rivet, which was also seen on the World War II model.

Abe:Are these suspender buttons retrofitted?

Fujiwara:I think you're probably right, but at the time, Levi's included original buttons for users who wanted to retrofit suspender buttons, but the clasps were generally made by "Scoville. However, this model has a thick-walled clasp, which was also seen on the World War II models, so I can't say that it was 100% an afterthought.

Abe:Did the deadstock unit also have suspender buttons?

Fujiwara:It doesn't come with it.

Kurihara:. So, until the deadstock piece was found, this worn-in piece was also considered to be a 1937 model.

Fujiwara:Yes, yes.

Kurihara:. there's been a lot of deciphering going on at once in the last few years. It seems that the notation on the back of the buttons (stamped differently depending on the age, such as 11, F, 1, etc.) can already be traced to the factory where it was made, as far as I can tell from the Internet.

Konno:It's really bad that Japanese maniacs can figure out things that even the staff at Levi's headquarters in their home country can't figure out (laughs).

Editorial:But how can they back it up if the head office staff doesn't know?

Kurihara:Some models, for example, the ones with 511 stamped on the back of the button, also have "511 El Paso" on the flasher, so you know they were made in the El Paso, Texas factory. . I think that's how they are crushed one by one.

Fujiwara:This is a bit of an advertisement, but we asked Levi's ®︎ Vintage Clothing to reissue this 1942 model in a limited edition of 80 pieces worldwide. Thanks to your support, they were sold out immediately after they went on sale,Featured article in HOUYHNHNMI also had a new one made, so you can check it out if you like.

Abe:It's more like a publicity stunt, but it's a complete publicity stunt (laughs).

Fujiwara:Next is a down vest with a western yoke. I had thought that the "Rocky Mountain Featherbed" movement had slowed down a bit until a couple of years ago, but it seems to have picked up again in the last year or so.Previous Vintage SummitI also brought a yellow "The North Face" down vest for the "The North Face" show, and this time, as an extension of that, I brought two models based on primary colors such as yellow and orange.

Abe:How much does a "Rocky Mountain Featherbed" still cost?

Fujiwara:I bought this one two years ago, and it was 29,800 yen, so I was a little sad at the time, thinking "it's not that popular..." But recently it's slowly picking up again. The other day, the yellow and dark brown size 46 came in stock, and I wanted to get a pair, but the first person in the all-night group rushed out to buy them. It was the first time I had seen this color, and I was a bit aggressive in asking 59,800 yen for it, but later I was told by others that it was priced too cheaply, and it seems to have been gradually reviving across generations.

Abe:Wow . That's a great story about being the first one. I wonder if the "Rocky Mountain Featherbed" was the pioneer of the Western yoke?

Fujiwara:I think it is one of the earlier brands, but there is also Powderhorn Mountaineering and H-Bercy, so I can't say for sure that it is a complete originator.

Konno:H.B.C. is a latecomer to the market.

Kurihara:I haven't checked it carefully until now, but I was wondering if the color scheme is the same when the outer and lining fabrics are switched. For example, if the outer fabric is yellow beige, the lining is red.

Fujiwara:No, I think there were other variations. Well, I didn't check the lining in detail either, since there are quite a few color variations in the outer fabric alone.

Kurihara:. In any case, this red lining is very rare. However, since "Rocky Mountain Featherbeds" did not undergo a major transition from the '70s when they changed to this tag (leather tag) until the end of the '80s, when the brand disappeared, I think it is difficult to say that it was the 70's or the 80's in general. So I think it's hard to say it's 70's or 80's.

Fujiwara:Indeed . Maybe there is a minute difference in the rest of the world, I don't know.

Kurihara:Well, these days, not only for "Rocky Mountain Featherbed," but also for down vests themselves, there really aren't any old men's products out there, are there? It's all women's wear.

Konno:Come to think of it, I once saw a "Rocky Mountain Featherbed" women's type (the cutting of the shoulder yoke is different from men's), but the front opening is on the left front to match men's. .

Fujiwara:There are such irregular individuals.

Fujiwara:Next up is Schott's One Star.Previous Vintage SummitI think Mr. Abe showed me a long brown one in the "The Long One," and I have been looking for a long one since then, but I have not been able to find it at all. I have been looking for a long black one since then, but I could not find one at all.

Abe:You can't say that brown has it, but black doesn't. . I'm sure they do. But it's huge.

Fujiwara:I'm a size 50 and had been wearing a 44 for years, but it was totally too small for my current sensibilities. I found it at Desert Snow's 25th anniversary sale and decided immediately. I found it at the Desert Snow 25th anniversary sale and immediately decided to go for it.

Abe:Just throw a little feather on it.

Fujiwara:I checked it in the mirror at home and it looks good on me. ......

Kurihara:No, don't give me that kind of foreshadowing (laughs).

Konno:. You don't look bad at all. I mean, you don't look 50.

Fujiwara:Yes, that's right. And the shoulders fall well.

Abe:Not so old in terms of chronology?

Fujiwara:70's . I'm missing one of the star studs on the epaulettes.

Abe:Well, I don't mind that much there, and I don't feel at all uncomfortable wearing it. How much was it?

Fujiwara:30,000.

Abe:That's cheap.

Editorial:You think there's an overall focus on bigger vintages?

Fujiwara:I think it is slowly calming down, but it doesn't come out that way because the number of balls is so small to begin with.

Kurihara:The other issue would be the length of the garment. Like jean jackets, items with short lengths need to be larger, otherwise it is difficult to balance them with the innerwear.

Konno:One Star is another step older, but on the other hand, the leather quality isn't as good.

Fujiwara:. I think this is the best period. After that, they were considered regulars in my opinion, so the '70s were just barely on the edge of the line in terms of age.

Kurihara:When we were teenagers, brands were rated by price rather than oldness. People who couldn't afford "Vanson" were wearing "Schott.

Konno:Yes, it was. There was even a term called "bunson hunting. I vividly remember riding the train in high school and seeing a guy standing in front of me wearing a "Vanson" leather vest on his bare skin. It would be unthinkable today to wear leather on bare skin, let alone over a tank top (laughs).

All:(Laughter).

Abe:You're not interested in UK stuff (like Lewis Leather)?

Fujiwara:I think it probably wouldn't suit you.

Abe:I don't think so, I think UK ones are easier to wear and don't have epaulettes.

Kurihara:If it's an old one like 30's, there are some without epaulettes, but I imagine that double riders from 40's onward basically have them.

Abe:Personally, I'm more interested in wearing it without the epaulettes because it looks nicer.

Konno:By the way, I was looking at a book on Schott's rider's jackets the other day, and I found that even the early models of Schott's one-star jackets, like Durabelle's (which, like Schott, developed rider's jackets with one-star epaulettes), had zippers with a wire-bent military zipper type of design. (Like SCHOTT, they also had a one-star jacket with epaulettes).

Fujiwara:Yes . I think it is at Mr. Sawada's (Fake Alpha manager) place.

Konno:That was cool.

Fujiwara:. Finally, I have a reverse weave with double-sided prints. I like back prints and collect them, but I am also interested in double-sided prints as a derivative of them. Furthermore, it is rare to find a type of print that is well-balanced on both sides, rather than a single large letter of the alphabet on the back. . My personal best period is the Tricot tag era of the '80s.

Abe:Overall, the soaring prices of "champions" are indeed calming down, aren't they?

Fujiwara:. Yes, I agree. However, as if in reaction to the temporary popularity of reverse weave, I have the impression that earlier vintage sweatshirts (100% cotton, round-body, suspension-knit type) are slowly rising in popularity these days. Well, the best example of this is the post-attachment parka I mentioned earlier.

Abe:I see. But didn't they only come in small sizes for vintage sweatshirts before reverse weave?

Kurihara:Therefore, I feel that the size balance of tops is gradually moving toward smaller sizes. On the other hand, jeans are starting to move toward larger sizes, such as W40, which had hardly moved in the past, so I think the current mood among young people is "small on the top and large on the bottom.

Abe:I see. Is the little reverse weave thing working?

Fujiwara:. it may still be a little less popular there. Well, the XL and larger sizes are still strong among those who choose reverse weave. Also, until recently, hooded jackets had a strong image, but recently there seems to be a shift to crew necks.

Kurihara:However, those with a good balance of prints and texture, etc., move quickly, even if they are somewhat overpriced. Although there is a sense that the products themselves have already been sold, there are always people looking for good ones.

Fujiwara:Yes, that's right. After all, it is a standard item, so I always keep an eye on it, and when I see a good one, I try to hold on to it.

Abe:The first is a pair of US Navy hickory coveralls. I've been checking them out for ages, but don't they only come in small sizes, too?

Kurihara:I have the impression that the denim is all small sizes and the hickory is still coming out in larger sizes. . although most of them are around 40 or so.

Abe:I think 40 is small (laughs). The division between denim and hickory is that denim is for civilians and hickory is for POWs.

Fujiwara:Well, there is also a P stencil on the back (Prisoner = Prisoner's initials), or so they generally say.

Kurihara:But I wonder if that's really true . Because it is hard to imagine that it was made on purpose just for that purpose . . I think it may have been made as a normal item and then stenciled and used again later on. For prisoners, denim and HBTs were made from items that were no longer in use at the time, and so on.

Konno:. in fact, some of the denim types have a P stencil on them.

Abe:Is there a hickory type that doesn't have the stencil on the back?

Fujiwara:Yes, there are. There are four types: none at all, only on the back, on the sleeves, and on both the back and sleeves.

Abe:. yes, I know. The number of balls is still less than denim, right?

Fujiwara:. there are fewer of them. Furthermore, the hickory type is more appreciated in the market. Were the buttons changed since you bought it?

Abe:Oh yeah . I was looking for quite a long time, so I thought, well, the buttons can be changed later.

Fujiwara:But, although not genuine, each button uses a change button of the same age, and the buttons alone are worth their weight in gold.

Kurihara:Maybe the hickory is one shot older, I'm thinking that since the denim was adopted around the time of WW2, it's possible that the previous model used before that was turned in for POW use.

Abe:I see. That's the kind of thinking that I've come to expect from you, Mr. Chestnut. I heard a theory that gunner's smocks were made by reusing denim laundry bags, and I thought, "I see.

Fujiwara:Speaking of buttons, some denim pieces came in dead stock before, and there were a few pieces that used plain white shell buttons instead of the US Navy stamped plastic buttons. . and I think these plain white buttons are often found on hickories.

Abe:You know, the buttons that are sometimes on medical uniforms? Then again, maybe we can't say for sure which is older, denim or hickory. ......

Kurihara:. well . Then Hickory's line of predecessor models has completely disappeared (laughs).

All:(Laughter)

Abe:Next, I brought a gunner's smock, again with the US Navy connection. I think it was used during rescues and resupply, given that it has a print on the back and chest with the international signal flag sign meaning slow down. I fell in love with this print at first sight. Come to think of it, many people call it a salvage parka.

Kurihara:In Japan, a salvage parka is common, but in the U.S., it is called a gunner's smock.

Konno:There are also corporate prints of this and other corporate-type prints.

Abe:Yes, there are. Also, I've seen college stuff, what is that stuff?

Kurihara:. Perhaps schools or companies bought up military releases at a low price after the war and diverted them. I heard this story a long time ago, so I don't know how true it is, but I heard that this model was worn during work that could be contaminated by chemicals, etc., and in such cases, once used, the items were discarded each time. . Perhaps because it was not issued to each soldier, I have never seen an individual with a personal name stencil, which is often seen on other navy uniforms.

Abe:Heh. I see. There is also a denim type, but that one was worn by gunners, right?

Kurihara:I don't think either denim or twill had the same use, but since there are still images of the twill actually being worn by artillerymen, I wonder if either material was used for both salvage and gunnery.

Fujiwara:This is a size S. Can you wear it, Mr. Abe?

Abe:Rude (laughs). . It's totally fine because it's wide and the construction itself is large.

Editorial:How could they determine that it was a size S when there was no tag or notation?

Fujiwara:It has vertical stitching on the patch pockets, S for one, M for two, and L for three.

Kurihara:A long time ago, the model was not that expensive, but since it skyrocketed in the U.S. home country, the Japanese domestic market has unavoidably skyrocketed as well.

Abe:Seems so. A long time ago, you could have found a good deal for under $10,000 without prints, couldn't you?

Fujiwara:.Yes . These days, depending on the condition, it comes with about 40,000 or 50,000.

Kurihara:Previous Vintage SummitThe Senior Corduroy Pants that Konno introduced in "2." were not so expensive at that time, but gradually young dealers in Japan began to notice their existence, and in recent years, they are selling for more than $1,000. Gunner's Mocs have also been raised in price by them as well. The vintage bubble that occurred in Japan in the '90s is happening right now in the U.S. . Things like line crewmen (the black and yellow nylon jackets worn by USAF runway guides to increase visibility), Snoopy sweatshirts (the printed sweatshirts from the "Peanuts" comic strip sold under license by Mayo Spruce in the 1960s), and retrofitted parkas are exactly what we're seeing. The market price in the U.S. has gone up, and the price of the "Snoopy" sweatshirts has gone up. First of all, the market price in the U.S. has gone up, and that has affected the market price in Japan.

Konno:Rheinkrueman really seems to be doing a great job.

Kurihara:Did you see NIGO®'s auction the other day ("Personal Archive Sale "From Me to You"" held in November at Jupiter, Pharrell Williams' digital auction house)?

Abe:I didn't follow it all the way through, but I did check out the items on display.

Kurihara:There were also Rhinocleman and Snoopy sweatshirts in that auction, and the Rhinocleman sold for $9,000, while the Snoopy one sold for $5,000 for a set of five. Also, the Levi's clown pants (the super oversized denim pants worn by the clowns at the rodeo) went up to $9,000.

Abe:You're kidding (laughs). It's amazing, isn't it?

Kurihara:However, the results of those auctions include the value-added price of NIGO®'s personal belongings, and I hope that young American dealers will understand that, but I think they will be more likely to blow such a price in the future.

Konno:I think I'll let go of that wave (laughs).

Abe:Next up is a pair of Boss of the Road coveralls. With a friend who is an Expedition Down collectorVintage Summit before. I traded it for the beige Brooks range from The North Face, which I also brought to the show. I had a French bulldog myself, and my wife runs an English bulldog and French bulldog goods brand, so we both like bulldog stuff, so we've always been checking out these items. I'd say the age is around 30's to 40's.

Fujiwara:It has a UNION MADE button on it, but there is no "by Lee" on it (Elothar Heinemann, which developed the brand, was bought by Lee in 1946 and became a part of the company while the brand continued for a while), so it probably dates from the late '30s to the early '40s. I think it was from the late '30s to early '40s. We had a hickory one, but it had hammered buttons and a chinstrap, so I think it was a later model.

Konno:The shape of the pockets is unusual, isn't it . It's more like a trapezoidal shape.

Abe:. it's pretty distorted, isn't it? Hercules has trapezoidal pockets, right?

Kurihara:Mr. Abe, I have a strong image of coveralls, how many do you have?

Abe:No , not that many. Currently, I think I have maybe 10 pieces of clothing.

Konno:How much would you put on it, Yutaka?

Fujiwara:I think it's 398,000 yen. It is not in that good of condition.

Abe:But still, that's a lot of money. Eloisa Heinemann also launched Cantubastem at the same time, didn't she? How did they separate the two?

Fujiwara:Indeed . I am sure that each of these specifications is slightly different.

Kurihara:I know that "Canto Bastem" is more associated with overalls, but do they also have coveralls in the same age group?

Fujiwara:There is.

Konno:By the way, Canto Bustem also released a mascot doll wearing overalls like Buddy Lee of Lee, which was sold at auction for 10,000 yen a long time ago, but I didn't go through with it at the time.

Abe:What a waste.

Fujiwara:Boss of the Road" also had a papier-mâché mascot doll for promotional purposes, didn't they?

Konno:There was. The one commonly known is the individual with the blue shirt, but as I recall, Mr. Magara (Shobu) said he had seen a white version.

Abe:Many people who like vintage , like bulldogs.

Fujiwara:Yes, it is.

Abe:. Let me close with a bandana again. This time, I have brought several pieces under the theme of "looking for mistakes. First of all, these two pictures. What do you think is the difference?

Konno:. lack of color.

Abe:Easy (laughs). Correct . Simply different colors.

Fujiwara:You mean misprints?

Abe:. at least I hope it's not a misprint. This pattern, called "Lightning" or "Native," is available in a wide variety of colors, but upon closer inspection, it seems that there were multiple ways to print it. In the case of this navy, it is possible that the printing plates are different, or that the same plate is used but the white areas are printed again in navy. ......

Kurihara:. It's certainly impossible to miss, isn't it?

Abe:Yes, yes. There's also a red base with the same pattern.

Fujiwara:Is it a discharge dye?

Konno:No, it's textile printing with color on white fabric. Is this pattern popular?

Abe:The pattern itself is popular, but it's not that patterns like this one are rare. . So even if you don't know much about it, I thought you might enjoy looking for it.

Konno:By the way, for reference, how much does it cost?

Abe:. maybe 2 or 3 thousand yen. I think you can find them for about 800 yen at a place that offers them cheaply.

Fujiwara:How do you know that there is less red?

Abe:I simply don't see red at all. . partly because I didn't care for it (laughs).

Konno:Are these all two-color prints?

Abe:No , some of them are printed in three colors.

Konno:Is there a reverse version?

Abe:There are black and gray monochromes on a white base, but I may have never seen white and navy or white and red.

Fujiwara:What decade is it from?

Abe:It is labeled "All Cotton" , so I guess after 60's. . Then, let's move on to the next one.

Konno:Is it a difference in notation?

Abe:. yes, yes. The other difference is the dyeing method. This indigo-dyed one is the oldest, and is labeled "IRONWEAVE" only, followed by "FAST COLOR + IRONWEAVE" and the last one is "without IRONWEAVE".

Fujiwara:Is IRONWEAVE a trademark?

Abe:Yes, there is an IRONWEAVE sticker with the TM notation, so I'm pretty sure . TUSIDE" means "double-sided," and "DUPLEX TUSIDE", which means "double-sided", and "DUPLEX", which means "double", but I think those are trademarked words for special materials, too.

Fujiwara:Of these, indigo dyeing is still the most expensive, right?

Abe:It's gone up again recently. Well, maybe it's just because there are not many even for sale anyway.

Fujiwara:Is it around the '30s?

Abe:. yes, I think you're right. The "FAST COLOR" notation existed in the '30s, so I'm pretty sure it was before or after the '30s. . Then, the last one is this cowboy pattern.

Kurihara:It is a popular pattern that many people are looking for.

Abe:Oh yeah . . it's very popular, partly because it's printed all the way to the edges. I have a bandana with an event print on this pattern, and the event year was 1930, which means the pattern existed before that. I said earlier that "FAST COLOR" existed in 1930 , because I found this bandana.

Fujiwara:The difference is, is there a rope motif around it or not?

Abe:You should pretend to be a little more distressed (laughs). In addition to the red, there is a navy and a purple in this pattern, but only the ones I own all have the rope motif on them, and the ones without this rope motif are much less common. As for this pattern, I think you have the wrong edition to begin with.

Kurihara:I've sold a few pieces of this pattern in the past, but I've never been concerned about that (laughs).

Abe:Right. Almost no one is even interested in whether or not there is a rope in the first place (laughs).

All:(Laughter).