FEATURE

Translated By DeepL

Vintage Summit 8: Vintage Summit 8: Vintage Summit 8: Vintage Summit 8: Vintage Summit 8: Vintage Summit 8: Vintage Summit 8: Vintage Summit 8: Vintage Summit 8: Vintage Summit 8.
Houyhnhnm Vintage Summit.

Vintage Summit 8: Vintage Summit 8: Vintage Summit 8: Vintage Summit 8: Vintage Summit 8: Vintage Summit 8: Vintage Summit 8: Vintage Summit 8: Vintage Summit 8: Vintage Summit 8.

Vintage Summit" is finally in its 8th edition, a regular Vintage Summit featuring some of the best vintage addicts in the industry. This is the first time in 2021 and the last in 2010s, and we welcome four regular members, Tomohiro Konno, Michihiko Kurihara, Fujihara Yutaka, and Takashi Abe, to share with us the ongoing world of vintage clothing, not to mention the items they are attracted to at the moment, and the premium value they are interested in at home and abroad, in a more maniacal way than usual. We will be bringing you the world of vintage clothing with even more maniacal words than usual.

  • Photo_Toyoaki Masuda
  • Text_Takehiro Hakusui
  • Edit_Yosuke Ishii

PROFILE

Tomohiro Konno
NEXUSVII. designer

Born in 1977, he started "NEXUSⅦ." in 2001 in New York. Opened a new store at the reopened Shibuya PARCO in November. His collaboration with "AKIRA ART OF WALL Katsuhiro Otomo × Kosuke Kawamura AKIRA ART EXHIBITION" has become a hot topic.

PROFILE

Michihiko Kurihara
Vintage Buyer

Born in 1977, he started his career as a freelance buyer in 2011. He is one of the most trusted vintage buyers in Japan, not only from vintage clothing stores but also from many select stores and brands. He plans to hold a New Year's sale at his store "Mr. Clean Yokohama.

PROFILE

Fujihara Yutaka
BerBerJin Director

Born in 1977, he is also known as an advisor for the L.A. denim brand YANUK, and in June last year he launched his own YouTube channel and is also active as a YouTuber. He also started a new store at Shibuya PARCO, which reopened last November.

PROFILE

Takashi Abe
BEAMS Online Shop Staff

Born in 1976. He has been involved in men's fashion magazines as an editor and writer, and has handled many articles related to vintage clothing. He is currently in charge of writing for his company's website, and is also known as a collector of vintage bandanas.

first lecture Tomohiro Konno

Military or not, this is an unseen blouson I acquired over 10 years ago."

'50s HOWARD WICKLUND SPORTING GOODS SPORTS JACKET

Konno:My first one, to be honest, I'm not sure of the details. I got it probably more than 10 years ago, but I found it the other day when I was cleaning out my warehouse, so I thought I'd have everyone take a look at it and give me their opinions.

Kurihara:If you don't remember much, that means you got it pretty cheap, right?

Konno:Maybe (laughs). But I have a military jacket that looks similar to this one, and I was wondering if it might be in the same category.

Abe:I'm more interested in this pocket (vertical pocket on the chest) than anything else. At first glance, it looks like sportswear, but the fact that it has this pocket means that it doesn't look like something you would wear while exercising. What is it for?

Fujiwara:It's probably a pen holder. And the material is a bit unusual. Is the body satin?

Konno:Probably satin. I have seen this brand "HOWARD WICKLUND SPORTING GOODS" several times in military goods.

Kurihara:It is indeed there, isn't it? Well, the jacket itself may be military-related, even if it is not an official delivery.

Abe:Not a sport?

Kurihara:Navy series by Wilson (apparel supplied to the U.S. Navy or Naval Academy by an old Chicago-based athletic wear brand. The Navy series includes a pullover with a lager shirt-type chinstrap, a clear vinyl jacket, a hat, etc.). It has a pen holder, so it could have been worn by a coach or a referee, for example.

Abe:I see. I'm guessing the era is around the '40s?

Fujiwara:The zips are bar Talon (made by Bar Talon), so probably '50s.

Kurihara:From the patch pockets and other details, it's '40s, but surely the zips are '50s, so early '50s or something. This company is no longer around, right?

Konno:It probably doesn't exist now. (A local Salem minor leaguer named Bill Beard later became an employee, became president in 1960, and changed the company name to "Bill Beard Sporting Goods" as well, which is confirmed through the '90s.)

Kurihara:From the name, I would guess that you are of European immigrant descent. This is the first time I have seen this brand.

Konno:The "Wilson" one that Kuri mentioned earlier, you see it at least once or twice a year, if not that often, don't you? But I haven't seen this one yet, so I think I probably bought it.

Kurihara:Maybe there is a line of personal orders for the officer class.


It's an art piece of great value."

'60s HAND PAINTED TROUSERS

Konno:The second is a pair of corduroy pants that don't have a brand tag, but both have the same body and were probably worn for an anniversary or ceremony.

Abe:Princeton's jacket ("Vintage Summit 3", "Vintage Summit 6It's something like (see 'The Pants'), isn't it? Aren't these pants usually beige corduroy-based?

Kurihara:Yes, it is. And, strangely enough, the top doesn't appear, so perhaps the pants were worn by themselves.

Abe:And they are all hand-drawn. But the style is consistent for a group drawing, and above all, there is no way ordinary students could be so good at it.

Fujiwara:Yes indeed, it's easy to determine the age since it also depicts 66 and the year, but I'm wondering what it was made for and if it was actually drilled?

Kurihara:It's painted with team names and stuff.

Konno:I have seen this one a few times elsewhere, though not so often, but strangely enough, not in a size I could wear, but only small individuals.

Abe:I wonder why? Are they still pants for mishaps, not for wearing?

Kurihara:I also have a pair from the 1950s, which were tucked in and a bit thicker because of the era, but I am sure the sizing was smaller. However, there are more than a few signs of having been worn. However, all of them are in good condition, so I don't think they were worn every day.

Abe:It's also possible from the size that it's not a college item, but a souvenir for high school or junior high school or something.

Kurihara:However, since the illustrations and logos are not only school-related, but also union and military-related organizations, they were probably worn at social club-type parties and the like.

Abe:I see.

Kurihara:Also, as far as this type of item is concerned, it is definitely more expensive in the U.S. than in the U.S. mainland. I've seen them, but they are so expensive that I can't afford them.

Abe:In Japan, I imagine that it is generally 40,000 yen more, but how much is it put on in the U.S.?

Kurihara:I imagine it costs about $300 to $500 when a dealer who knows the thing has it.

Abe:By the way, are you wearing these, Konno?

Konno:Yes, I do. However, since the character is so strong, the top should be plain, and a long coat or something should be used so that the pants cannot be seen in their entirety.

Kurihara:I've never seen anyone actually wearing them, either in Japan or abroad (laughs).

Fujiwara:Well, it has value and interest as an art piece, so to speak, regardless of its practical use.


Interesting elaborate details.
Three wool melton deformed jackets."

WOOL MELTON JACKET

Konno:The third is a wool melton deformed jacket. Although the brands and ages are varied, I brought several pieces that show elaborate details.

Abe:(Pointing to the blouson type from "Discovery" in the center of the photo with anchor buttons) This is from the '80s or so?

Konno:Yes, it is.

Kurihara:However, the flap pockets look like something you would see on an aviator jacket from the '20s or so.

Konno:Yes, I did. I bought it at the Rose Bowl once, but the dealer who was selling it specialized in older Gucci and Maison pieces, and even though it was from the '80s, the price was pretty high, like $80, I think.

Kurihara:No, that's cheap (laughs). If it were me, I would put 30,000 on it. I think it's detail work that resonates with people who make clothes, without mentioning vintage.

Fujiwara:Yes, I agree. But if it were us (Berberzin), I wouldn't touch it even for $80.

Konno:I don't know any details about the brand itself, but I thought I would start digging a bit. The second one is from a brand called "Martin" (photo on the left).

Kurihara:This brand also produces other quite unusual items, doesn't it?

Konno:Yes, I think so. The brand has many details that I personally like, such as side lace-ups, and I often see patterned shirts and madras check cotton blousons.

Kurihara:Many of the items are Ivy-like.

Abe:How old is it?

Fujiwara:(Judging from the (gripper) zip, I'd say '60s.

Konno:It's generally quirky, but this body pocket is particularly interesting.

Kurihara:Yes.

Konno:The third is from "Puritan" (photo at right).

Abe:This pullover is very different.

Konno:It's very unusual, isn't it? A typical pullover has a shorter zip, and if it opens this wide, why not make it a full zip?

Abe:This is also about '60s?

Fujiwara:Probably late '60s or something.

Kurihara:The front opening zip is unnecessarily long, while the side slit zip is short, giving it a unique halfway house in many ways.

Abe:This one has an Ivy-like feel to it, too.

Konno:That's right. Like "Martin" mentioned earlier, this brand also has many Ivy-conscious items, such as blousons with hoods on the collar.

Kurihara:However, if I were in Mr. Konno's position, I think I would not show this type of product (at such an event). I think it is a good sample source for people who are making things.

Konno:I can't say anything great about it, since I bought it myself and let it sit in storage for more than 10 years, but please don't take it away from me (laughs).

All:(Laughter)


A deformed jacket of unknown use.
The color scheme suggests it is probably Princeton related."

'20s PRINCETON UNIV. WOOL JACKET

Konno:The fourth and final item is a blouson, probably related to Princeton University because of the color scheme, which also has unique detail work, such as side lace-ups and buckles.

Fujiwara:Is it '40s? The buckle has a lily engraved on it, and the design is exactly the same as the one used by Levi's during the World War II, isn't it?

Konno:But the plating is blue plated, so I personally think it's a little older.

Abe:Certainly, the tag (AMERICAN SPORTING GOODS Co.) has a '20s-'30s look to it.

Kurihara:Perhaps the lettered (28) on the back is the year of graduation. Of course, just because it has a graduation year on it does not necessarily mean that it was manufactured around that time, but for this particular piece, I think it is about the same time.

Fujiwara:As you said, the flannel texture was certainly pre '40s.

Konno:The buckle itself may have been made continuously since the '20s or so as a general-purpose item.

Abe:Where did you get this?

Konno:It was on eBay. I don't remember it being very cheap or expensive, but I was just attracted by the interesting detail. I think it was probably Princeton related, but I have no idea what it was used for.

Abe:Ceremonial type?

Konno:Indeed. Because it is hard to imagine wearing something with such a needle (buckle) while exercising.

Fujiwara:It's a bit too rare to identify even its use. However, it is full of details and is very powerful or attractive as an object.

Abe:Indeed. It is a treasure trove of details that Imano-kun seems to like. Well, the black base is also a nice touch.

Kurihara:Black and orange is a color scheme also used by Oregon State University, but I don't get the impression that there are many older ones out there, so I too think it is Princeton-related.

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