What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.115 "More relaxed than formal" is the current mood. That's why Armani is the best choice.

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

This is the 15th season of this series! This is the 115th issue of the third in which all the new stores have been replaced. From the Sangenjaya area, where new vintage clothing shops are opening one after another, Tatsuya Kawasaki of "atsurae vintage" makes his appearance. What kind of new vintage items will he introduce?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Tatsuya Kawasaki / Owner, atsurae vintage
Vol.115_Emporio Armani Jacket, Armani Collezioni Set-up

-The theme of this series is "to find good regulars that will remain in our records and memories like true vintage. So, what is the definition of "New Vintage" for "Atulae Vintage"?

Personally, I think "vintage" is something that is handed down through the ages and remains loved for a long time, so it is something that will always be supported and will never go out of style.... Well, this is a very difficult question to answer (laughs).

Please tell us about the concept or theme behind the selection of items at "Atsurae Vintage".

We buy under the four themes of "ethnic," "traditional," "authentic," and "mode. We purchase items under the four themes of "ethnic," "traditional," "authentic," and "mode," so we do not waver from these axes and emphasize not only the quality of the item itself, but also "how to wear it. Therefore, we are conscious of "how it looks when combined with other items" when purchasing.

I heard that you are from "UNITED ARROWS". In this series of articles, we have featured several stores owned by owners who came from select stores, and they all say that they are conscious of "how to style? I heard that Mr. Kawasaki is from "UNITED ARROWS".

In this sense, I think the approach of "creating a sense of discomfort" is effective. For example, try matching old European clothes with old American clothes. While focusing on details such as design and materials is one way to enjoy vintage clothing, I think it is also important to enjoy the "fun of wearing" by creating interesting total styling.

What kind of new vintages will you introduce?

This time, we would like to focus on the "Armani" series from the 1980s to the 1990s. The founder is Giorgio Armani, known as the "king of the mode world. In terms of the four themes I mentioned earlier, this is the "Mode" series. When we were children, we had an image of Armani's set-ups in magazines and on TV as being "bubbly," but when we look at them now, they are very fresh, and we feel that they are very much in line with the atmosphere of 2025.

It's what we call a soft suit.

That is exactly the kind of item that my old friend "United Arrows" created a huge movement. Armani is said to have revolutionized menswear with details that pursued comfort while preserving the basics of the traditional suit: a wide jacket with thin shoulder pads and pants that are loose-fitting without a crease.

The relaxed feel of a soft suit is certainly in tune with my current mood.

I believe that things that remain as vintage gradually take on a vintage character as they go through fads and fashions over time. From this point of view, I think it is worth paying attention to as a new vintage.

By the way, Armani seems to have many different lines.

First, "Giorgio Armani" was born in 1975 as a top-of-the-line first line, paying close attention to fabrics and materials. Next is Emporio Armani, which was born in 1981 as a second line for young people. The price range here is middle class, and many of the designs incorporate trends and modern designs. Let's start with this jacket.

Emporio Armani jacket ¥37,400(Atsurae Vintage)

I think the hurdle is quite high when it comes to double-chested suits...

It is true that there are strict rules in the world of suits, but since the concept of "Cool Biz" was born, it has become a good idea to wear a formal item like a suit with a casual look, so wearing a vintage T-shirt as innerwear and sandals or sneakers on your feet is also a good idea. It is also possible to wear vintage T-shirts with sandals or sneakers on the feet. Armani's design philosophy is "simplicity is the greatest elegance", and I think you can wear it very stylishly by combining it with vintage items as an element to subtract the fullness of vintage items.

If so, it's possible to make a modern arrangement with the bottoms, isn't it?

Yes, I think so. Cargo pants with lots of detail and a tech feel would be fine.

I see. This one has a different tag.

ARMANI COLLEZIONI. It started in 1979 as a dewision line. The line was characterized by its sexy design for adults, but it was integrated into Emporio in 2017 and no longer exists. This is an early model with "GIORGIO ARMANI" on the tag.

Armani Collezioni set-up (bottoms also available) ¥66,000(Atsurae Vintage)

When you touch the fabrics and actually wear them, you can clearly see the differences between the different lines. In terms of jackets, the silhouettes are not so different, but Emporio's fabrics have a slightly rough texture, such as a mixture of synthetic fibers, while Collezioni's fabrics have a very smooth touch with wool angora and silk, giving them a luxurious feel. In addition, contrary to the bubbly image, the gauze line of the lapel is a little high and does not give an old-fashioned impression.

Another "Armani Collezioni," but since the word "GIORGIO" is missing from the tag, this is a model from the Autumn/Winter 2000 collection, when the line became a business line.

Armani Collezioni Setup ¥55,000(Atsurae Vintage)

Do you find a lot of jackets in second-hand clothing like this?

Yes, I am not sure. However, I think it may have been a setup originally. I would think that in more than a few cases it was sold in pieces.

So, when looking for an Armani jacket, do you have any "check here! When looking for an Armani jacket, please let us know if there are any points that you would like us to "check here".

As in any genre, there are trends from time to time. Unconcluded jackets without interlinings or shoulder pads used to be popular, but now, on the contrary, they have shoulder pads, longer sleeves, and longer length. Lapels are a bit wide and classical details are favored.

I thought the fashion scene as a whole was becoming more genderless, but it is also surprising and interesting that these kinds of masculine items are popular.

That is precisely what makes it uncomfortable. I think it is interesting to pay attention to "Armani" in terms of a brand that fits in with the atmosphere of the world.

Tatsuya Kawasaki / Owner, atsurae vintage
On October 8, 2021, after a 14-year career at UNITED ARROWS, he opened "atsurae vintage" on the second floor of a building along Chazawa-dori in Sangenjaya, where many vintage clothing stores are located. Both men's and women's clothing, from vintage to good regular, are selected with a unique aesthetic eye and lined up with items rich in individuality.
Instagram:@atsurae_vintage