Serialized 【, What's the NEW VINTAGE? Vol.130 Is this a duffle coat? The “other” Grover All.

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

Before we knew it, this series was in its 17th season! All the new stores have been replaced, and the 130th installment will appear at "pelo" in Shouinjinsha-mae, Tokyu Setagaya Line, where vintage clothing shops are proliferating one after another. What kind of new vintage items will Mr. Taki introduce to us?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Yusuke Taki / Owner, pelo
Vol.130_GLOVERALL Short Zip Duffle Coat

This is the second time that you have appeared at the restaurant, since your last appearance at the previous restaurant. When I asked you then (in 2023), "What is the New Vintage? is the answer still the same today?

I don't think the basics have changed.

He said, “The premise is a longing for ”true vintage,“ which is now unattainable, but in addition to high-quality materials and workmanship, the brand and items themselves must have some kind of backbone. In addition, items that are not yet known to the world as ”good products. Is this also reflected in the selection of "pelo"?

That's right. We pick items for Jean-lesse regardless of age, and since many of the customers of Postomani, a florist located in the same space, are women, we are conscious of making the store unisex and enjoyable.

The store does not distinguish between true vintage and new vintage, but they are all lined up on the same racks.

It may be that zoning is difficult due to space limitations, but I think it is more fun and cool to combine items from different eras, since I see them as “clothes” without any boundaries. I think it is more fun and cool to combine items from different eras. We hope that each of our customers will freely associate with our vintage clothing.

What is the new vintage that Taki-san is going to introduce to us this time?

Many of you may have been familiar with "Gloverall" from your school days. However, instead of the standard duffle coat, I'd like to focus on a short-length and zip-up duffle coat. This is the only type I know of that doesn't have toggle buttons.

Groverall short zip duffle coat ¥22,000(PERO).

If it is a zip-up instead of a toggle button, the image is quite different.

Right? It is not unusual to see a short duffle coat with toggle buttons on the front, but this one has a front zip. I picked it because it is made by "GLOBAL" and it is interesting. But to tell the truth, when I first picked it up, I was skeptical. I was skeptical when I first held it in my hands.

To begin with, is this a duffle coat?

The general definition of a duffle coat is “a hooded coat made of thick, brushed, double-twill duffle fabric,” so from that perspective, this is definitely classified as a duffle coat.

I see. Other than the toggle buttons, there are many differences between this coat and a regular duffle coat.

Although the shoulder part is the same, the pockets are now welt pockets accessed from the side instead of patch pockets with a flap to put your hand in, and the lack of straps to prevent wind from entering through the cuffs gives the jacket a more active look. The lack of straps to prevent wind from flowing into the sleeves gives the jacket a more active look.

When we look at the material, it is not thick but quite light, which also makes us feel a sense of discomfort.

Yes, the question arises, “Is this really a duffle coat? But since the tag is clearly marked ”DUFFLE COAT,“ it must be so (laugh). (Laughs) Also, as indicated on the tag on the back of the neck, the fact that it is ”MADE IN ENGLAND" is also a point that cannot be overlooked.

Short length is much more popular than long length these days, and in that sense, it may be in season. And what about the other one?

Groverall short zip duffle coat ¥29,700(PERO).

This one is different again, with the same lack of sleeve straps, but no shoulder seam, and patch pockets without flaps. And the most important point is the material. The outer fabric is a mixture of shiny PVC (polyvinyl chloride), polyester, and polyurethane, and the lining is a synthetic fleece fabric. The lining is a synthetic fleece fabric.

Another unexpected piece of clothing! I mean, this is indeed not a duffle coat....

The material is not duffle fabric, right? It seems to me that it has gone so far as to deviate from the definition of a duffle coat and no longer has the meaning of being a “Grover All” coat, but that's the opposite of what makes it so good! There is a name tape on the back of the hem, so it is probably not a fake, but there is a possibility that it was a licensed Japanese project... Above all, it's fun to see that even though it's a "Grover All," it's a "non-Grover All," and that it's not like the others.

I don't think they will ever be worn. In recent years, I have the impression that fewer people wear duffle coats than in the past. What do you think about that?

Last winter, fashionable people on the street were wearing them, but most of them were long and adult-like. In that sense, both of the two pieces are completely backwards (laughs). When I was a university student, there were a lot of hooded coats with this kind of design being sold at select stores, and at the time I avoided them because I thought they looked “childish,” but recently I have come to think, "This could be an option. I think it's good if you can wear it in the way that an ordinary British man wears it with slacks.

When you think about it, "made in England" suddenly makes a lot more sense.

To be honest, the quality is probably not much different, but it has the image of being more properly made than made in the U.S.A. (laugh), and it has a more special feeling than made in the U.S.A. (laugh). It also has a more special feel to it. “It looks normal, but actually it's weird and twisted” is very British.

Yusuke Taki / Owner, pelo
At his previous job at a certain used clothing store, he was in charge of purchasing in Canada for about two years. After working in PR, store management, and event planning, he became independent and opened "pelo" in September 2025 in Shoinjinsha-mae, Tokyo. In September 2025, he opened "pelo" in Shoin-jinja-mae. In the same space, "Postomani," a flower shop run by his partner Meibuki, will coexist, providing a special space surrounded by flowers and vintage items to enrich daily life a little.
Instagram:@pelo_shoinjinja