Serialized 【, What's the NEW VINTAGE?"] Vol.118 "Don't say it's not my gala...". Polo ties to try, even if they are flashy

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but still had value, as opposed to "antique" clothing that was 100 years old. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which used to be called "regular" vintage clothes. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

This is the 15th season of this series! All the new stores have been replaced, and we are already in the second round of the series. The baton was taken by Mr. Tatsuki Hashimoto of "Ayahuasca Clothing Store. What new vintage items will he introduce this time?

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Tatsuki Hashimoto / Owner, Ayahuasca Clothing Store
Vol.118_Polo Ralph Lauren neckties

-What is the new vintage you are going to introduce this time?

Continuing from the previous issue, this time we will focus on Polo Ralph Lauren's accessories instead of clothing. We would like to focus on the "necktie," an essential item in the American traditional style and the starting point of the founder Mr. Ralph Lauren's career. The tie appears in every season of the collection and is an indispensable spice in the Polo Ralph Lauren style.

The way you do the look is also very cool, isn't it? However, fashion accessories of international brands, not limited to Polo Ralph Lauren, somehow give the impression of being licensed products...

That is certainly a reasonable point. As a way to distinguish between U.S. and other standards, the Japanese and Canadian standards are produced by different companies, so the shape of the tag is different. The U.S.-standard ones have RN41381 and the RN number on the tag, so it is a good idea to take a look at that. This does not mean that licensed products are fake, so you can choose the one you like based on quality and design.

Do you actually have many customers who pick up your products?

In the case of Polo Ralph Lauren, shirts, ties, and hats are the top three items in our store, so we have many customers who pick them up. I would say we have a pretty good selection of Polo Ralph Lauren ties because of this.

I see. It's very interesting, but along with scarves, I have the impression of loud patterns, and it seems difficult to know how to incorporate them while at the same time attracting the eye....

Our store collects items not from the standpoint of the item itself, but from the perspective of how they would be interesting to style, and we have selected items based on this premise. There are two genres. The first is "motif illustration prints. We often see combinations of animals such as birds, horses, and dogs with scenery, as well as tools such as golf clubs, harnesses, and watches. The choice of subject matter in this area is probably related to the fact that Polo Ralph Lauren is based on British style.

Polo Ralph Lauren ties ¥8,000 each(Ayahuasca Clothing Store)

The other is "Jacquard. Some types express the pattern only with Jacquard weave, while others combine it with illustration prints. The unevenness of the surface adds depth to the expression, but it also makes the pattern more assertive, so the degree of difficulty may be slightly higher. Incidentally, the panel type, which is not a series of patterns but a single picture as a whole, is often seen in this type.

Polo Ralph Lauren ties ¥8,000 each(Ayahuasca Clothing Store)

Also rare among the items we have prepared this time is a double name with a long-established high-end department store. In addition to Saks Fifth Avenue, a high-end department store in New York City, there are double names with Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale's, which are also known as high-end, long-established department stores. Bloomingdale's, which is also known as a high-end department store.

Is there a way to tell the age of a tie as well?

You can tell to some extent by looking at the tags. In my experience, most of them are American-made until the early 90's, and most of them are Italian-made after the 90's.

I would like to know the right shirt to wear with it.

I would say "your choice," but the easiest to match is a cleric shirt. Since the collar and body are already in the same color scheme, you can easily create a professional look, and above all, a patterned or colored tie would look great with it. Alternatively, you can "dare to choose" a casual BD shirt with the collar unbuttoned and a tie wrapped around it. If it's the coming season, matching it with a flannel shirt is also an option. Or a slightly thicker plaid shirt with a black watch tie. I think it's really cool!

I think the pattern-on-pattern is very difficult.

It may seem difficult, but it is worth the challenge. You can easily create a sense of unity by incorporating the colors from the tie into other items, or you can try to create an aesthetic of "haphazardness" by using completely different colors and patterns.

As you mentioned earlier, there are two types of patterned neckties: the all-over pattern type and the single-panel type.

The latter is probably the better choice from an art piece standpoint, since the eye is drawn to the tip of the sword when looking at the tie by itself, but when the tie is actually wrapped and layered with a vest or jacket, what is important is the area around the knot, which is the V-zone. Therefore, I think the former is easier to use. When looking for a tie, please keep this in mind.

Please tell me the correct way to tie a tie.

The single knot is the rule of thumb. Make the knot smaller and dimple it, and if you have a tie pin or tie bar, that's even better. Finish it off with a quick lift to give it a three-dimensional look! From a styling point of view, it's not just an Ivy look, but rather a tie added with a knit cap, cap, crew-neck sweatshirt, and chino pants to break it up. I like that kind of Black Ivy flair.

By the way...who doesn't like to wear a tie?

If this is the case, then simply hanging it around the neck without wrapping it around is also an option. In the case of a bow tie, this is a classic technique used by Polo Ralph Lauren. If you don't wear a shirt to begin with, it would be interesting to put it through the belt loop of your bottoms and use it as a belt. In fact, there are belts made of necktie fabric as a standard item. One thing to note, however, is the durability. Silk material is particularly susceptible to slipping, so check the tip of the sword when buying one. By the way, don't worry, we only sell items in good condition. When you wrap it like a belt, please understand that it is a consumable item and use it at your own risk! (LOL)

As with military, work, and sports items, it is rare to find an item in good condition that you like the design of because it is a consumable item.

The VMD team of Polo Ralph Lauren in Australia once purchased a large number of Ralph ties from our store, and they also told us that they were difficult to find. That's what I mean by "once in a lifetime". Also, if you are hesitant to buy a tie because you don't know how to match it, ask the store staff how to match it. This is where communication is born, and you can enjoy fashion more deeply. In the end, the charm of vintage clothing is "how you can find your own originality," and we hope that you will take this opportunity to look at these items as a chance to do so.

Tatsuki Hashimoto / Owner, Ayahuasca Clothing Store
A happy and hip space on the first basement floor near Yoyogi-Koen and Yoyogi-Hachiman stations, just off the elevator in an exploratory mood, is the Ayahuasca Clothing Store. It will open in March 2021. The store offers a wide lineup of items that have the scent of music, movies, and other cultural influences of the owner, from true vintage items from 100 years ago to good regular items.
Instagram:@ayahuasca_clothes