What is the New Vintage anyway?
In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.
Since the last issue, three stores have been replaced and restarted. The 10th edition features a new addition, Yuta Takahashi of Color at Against.
Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii
Yuta Takahashi / Owner, Color at Against
Vol.10_Columbia's Anorak & Fishing Jacket
-What is the new vintage for you?
There is no such thing as a definition of "new vintage". When people who grew up under the vintage culture grow up and see various things and say, "That was cool back then," they are tickled when the time and things match with their emo mood. I think that's what new vintage is.
-What are the criteria for selecting on that basis?
It's only "for me," but I derive it from my experience, culture and hobbies around me, and half of it is self-satisfaction. I used to ride Harleys when I was younger, and at that time, I was facing vintage clothes through motorcycles, so naturally I was looking for clothes from the 40s to the 60s that matched with my bikes. But there was no way I had the money to buy vintage clothes.... So, I found a brand of outdoor clothing from regular used clothing, which was not yet considered valuable at the time, and said, "This is totally cool! I found outdoor brands that I thought were cool and wore them, and that is how I got into my current tastes. So, I basically select items by intuition based on the experience I gain from buying, using, and wearing them. This is my own way of finding value, cultivated through the pressure from the older generation that said, "You can't handle skate brands if you don't skate," (laughs).
-In this regard, he has recently been into outdoor activities such as camping and fishing, and he is interested in Columbia.
That's right. Until a decade ago, the image of "Columbia" was that of a brand worn by students and old men, but in fact, Columbia has a tremendous number of items and a wide market share, and its functionality and design are unique. Columbia was the first to introduce the 2-in-1 3-way jacket, and it is one of the brands that laid the foundation for today's fashion.
-Here are some of the new vintage items that we picked up.
First of all, it's a really cool anorak that you can't help but buy when you discover it. Depending on the year, the front logo may be embroidered or badged, but the basics are the same. The marble buttons on the front, the "Doraemon pocket" on the front body, and the contrast with the lining of the hood are also stylish.
(from top to bottom) Anorak in Colombia ¥12,800-TAX IN / Anorak in Colombia ¥11,800-TAX IN / Anorak in Colombia ¥13,800-TAX IN(All in Color at a Glance)
-When were they made?
From the top, early 90s, late 90s, and 00s. By the way, I like the rubber-like logo of the early 90s. It was simplified gradually, so it's fun to guess "was it cost-prohibitive? It's fun to try to guess. Then, when other brands saw this anorak, they thought, "Oh no, they got us! Later, items like this also appeared.
-It looks just like "Gap," but this one is called "Gap.
Gap anorak ¥12,500-TAX IN(Color at a Glance)
Nowadays, it's the opposite, isn't it? It is also interesting to note that during this period, various brands were repeatedly pirating and pirating each other's designs, as one can see by digging around. Columbia has many items with designs that go their own way, and I am impressed by that (laughs). (Laughs.) And, as well as the original list price, the fact that the price range on the used clothing market is cheaper than other brands is also wonderful! When you buy used clothing from a serious outdoor brand, you have to take into account the temperature and weather conditions when selecting items, and think "I wonder which mountain I will wear this to" or "Let's match it with this in town! It also broadens my fashion horizons, so I recommend it even to those who are not interested in the outdoors.
-The last one to be introduced to you is Columbia's eighteenth item, the Fishing Jacket.
Columbia Fishing Jacket ¥17,800-TAX IN(Color at a Glance)
Again, my personal taste comes out strongly (laughs). (Laughs.) Well, my standard is whether it fits my lifestyle and is realistic or not, so I guess I can't help it. So, I don't have any particular poop to say about this! However, the seam tape on the back and the light weight are worth mentioning. Of course, compared to current items, the waterproofness is...well...not so good. I also love the fact that it is packable with such simplicity, and the way it tests your packing ability tickles my fishing spirit. I want to compete with nature by wearing vintage clothes, so I keep wearing these items, telling myself that "wearing vintage clothes sometimes requires patience.
-I think you have expanded your interpretation of the New Vintage even further this time.
Somehow, I think that the love that cannot be expressed only in details such as parts and materials gives birth to the new vintage. I think that's what makes new vintage. Rarity does not make a piece cool, but coolness is the trigger to create a new vintage. Good looking items naturally matured in my mind and became new vintage. That's how I'd like to close this issue! (Laughs)
Yuta Takahashi / Owner, Color at Against
Born in Akita Prefecture. After working for "Stussy" and an American casual select store, he became independent. The store is located in a residential area near Yoyogi Uehara station in Tokyo, and is based on the concept of "adults who don't want to forget their playful and childlike spirit," and offers items that are reminiscent of fun and interesting vintage clothing from Japan and abroad,Color at Against.He is also a member of the board of directors of the company. Recently, he is into outdoor activities such as camping and fishing.
Instagram:@color_at_against