So, What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.16 A "footbath-like" knit polo shirt that allows you to comfortably enjoy the atmosphere of those days.

What is the New Vintage anyway?

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

The 16th edition is by Koji of "danjil" (danjil).

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Koji / danjil Manager
Vol.16_Kick Wear Knit Polo Shirts

-Now, what are the new vintage items you would like to introduce to us?

. this time we would like to highlight a nostalgic item. . For those of us of the same generation who spent our youth on the streets in the 90's, the knit polo shirt is a nostalgic item. Since the most fashionable era was the 70's, most of the items you can find in the vintage clothing market are from that time, and even if you like the design, the size doesn't fit you.... Then I found KIK WEAR, a street brand from Los Angeles founded in 1992, famous for its baggy pants. In Japan, KIK WEAR has been sold at select skate and surf stores with a West Coast flair and has gained some recognition, but nowadays, there are probably more people who don't know about it.

. I checked and it seems that the brand is still alive and well. The bottoms are still the same baggy silhouette, but the tops have changed to a tighter fit, and the brand is still supported by the rave scene and EDM fans in the U.S. and Europe.

I see. So, the taste has changed considerably since then? In my mind, the image of Knit Polo is that of the Beastie Boys. You can see King Ad-Rock wearing it in the music video for "pass the mic," and it was also released through the apparel line of the Grand Royal label, which was run by the Beastie Boys.

Grand Royal knit polo shirt ¥12,800+tax (Danzil)

It's quite stylish and fresh when you look at it now! I have the impression that the knit polo shirts were worn by white artists like Beastie.

Especially the guys in the west coast melo-core bands used to wear them a lot. . They would wear them with work pants and a ball chain wallet chain around their waists (laughs). At the time, big polos were popular at Polo Ralph Lauren, and baggy silhouettes were in their heyday. In such an environment, knit polo shirts were probably more useful than T-shirts, as they looked well behaved even when worn in large sizes. This is why we have brought a few variations this time around.

Kickwear knit polo shirts ¥12,800+tax each (Danzil)

It is a very austere design. . I also feel a black flair to it.

Yes, that's true, and that's what makes Coco's interesting compared to other brands. As a basic design, it uses a lot of diamond and stripe patterns, which looks like a Jamaican bad boy, a rude boy. They also use the Rastaman character designed by Daz Green, a famous graffiti artist from New York City, which gives off a black vibe. The graphic on the tag is a bit tacky , but it also has a good vibe.

Kickwear knit polo shirt ¥12,800+tax (Danzil)

The tag looks vaguely familiar , but can you find it pretty well?

When I first started digging, I was getting a rush, but it is getting harder and harder to find. As I mentioned earlier, there were old items from the 70s and so on, but when I narrowed my search to street brands like these, the number of items decreased at once. You can find a lot of "FRESHJIVE" and "XLARGE," but after a certain point, the fabrics are switched to jacquard and baby deer fabrics, so the number of knitwear items decreases even more.

It's true that both are West Coast street brands, and I can feel the atmosphere of the times. Now, please tell us about the highlights of your products.

Above all, the baggy silhouette is very good. Polo shirts are sportswear, so it makes sense to wear them tight for athleticism, but the opposite is true: wearing them loose is more like a street style. I also appreciate the fact that the shirts are mainly in earth colors, as my own age has changed, and the fact that you even made the original metal buttons is also very important. The weave pattern on this one is interesting, and the half-zip design, rather than buttons, gives it a different look.

Kickwear knit polo shirt ¥12,800+tax (Danzil)

What kind of customers buy these so-called "inatai" items at Danzil?

The younger generation buys clothes based on the sense that they are "somehow cool. Since the items are not standard items, there are no preconceived notions of how they should be worn, and the freedom to wear them in any way they like is probably what makes them fresh. They are a little different from the image we had in mind, but that is also the freedom of secondhand clothes, so we think it is a good thing.

Not only the younger generation, but also adults who have been away from the streets will find it useful.

Yes, this alone will make you feel a little more fashionable. When your child starts kindergarten, you will need to participate in annual events. Since you can't just wear a T-shirt as usual, I thought this would be useful. If they wear the HERMES turbos I mentioned earlier, it will be perfect (laughs). The best thing is for the clothes to match the backbone of the person, but to be honest, you get tired of being soaked up to your shoulders in the clothes (laughs). Just like taking a bath, I would get very tired. At such times, knit polo shirts from those days can be enjoyed like a casual footbath, while still somehow emanating the smell of those days. I would like everyone of my generation who has left the streets to give this item a try.

Koji / danjil Manager
In 2003, he opened "danjil," a vintage clothing store in Machida, known as a mecca for vintage clothing in the southwest area of Tokyo, featuring a lineup of items related to American culture from the 80s and 90s. The store is filled with items related to street culture and American sports, causing the "lovers" to fainter in agony. It appears to be an up-and-coming brand.COTTON PAN.. and may or may not be involved....
Instagram:@danjil2