So, What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.17 "Supreme", where value is created by telling a story.

NEW VINTAGE09

What is the New Vintage anyway?

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

Starting with this issue, three stores have been replaced and restarted. The 17th edition features Hajime Sakamoto of "instant bootleg store.

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Hajime SAKAMOTO / President of instant bootleg store
Vol.17_Supreme T-shirts

-Now, what are the new vintage items you would like to introduce to us?

This time,Previous Spin-off timesSupreme" was featured in the "Vintage Vintage" section of this issue of "The New Vintage". Recently, vintage clothing has been rapidly becoming more and more popular, and it is now seen at various secondhand clothing stores in a way that would have been unthinkable a year ago. I'd like to talk about the new vintage Supreme, focusing on T-shirts, which will be the main item from this season and the easiest to understand in order to convey the brand's appeal.

Thanks to the success of the spin-offs, Supreme's inline line has come to be recognized as an easy-to-understand sample to explain the concept of new vintage.

However, if you ask me if any item can be called "New Vintage" if it is Supreme, that's not quite the same thing. Even for Levi's, after the value of 501s increased, other items were pulled to join the vintage category, right? In the spin-off episode, everyone brought their own modest inline items, but the fact that even items that you would normally pass by are packed with charm is Supreme's greatest strong point, and shows its strength. For example, this is a good example.

Supreme T-shirt ¥24,200 (Instant Bootleg Store)

-Sounds delicious. But why the pastrami sandwich!

I think so, don't you? This is the "Pastrami T" released in 2005. As you said, it has a pastrami sandwich printed on it, but the answer is actually hidden in the back design. In short, it reveals the source of the design. Most Japanese and even Americans who have lived in or visited New York may not be familiar with this, but there is a very long-established sandwich shop called "Katz's Delicatessen"....

-This restaurant is often featured in movies and is known as one of the most popular spots in New York City.

Yes!!! The design of this back print is exactly the same as the one on the outside wall of the building. No, it's true that it has the full New York Repellent feel, but it's like, "There! (laugh). (laugh). If you can notice this, it seems like an attractive item at once, doesn't it? I know the brand doesn't want to expose the source of the items, and I know it's uncouth, but we Japanese have a history of enjoying vintage clothing in this way, and I think this is an essential point when enjoying "Supreme" as a new vintage item. The number of items produced each season is not half the number of items that are produced in the past, so the memories tend to be of flashy collaborations, but these low-key items are actually the ones that do the most "typical" things. This one, for example...

Supreme T-shirt ¥27,500 (Instant Bootleg Store)

This is a straight-up cool guy!

Collaboration with "Champion" as you know. This is from the late 90s. One of the reasons why "Champion" came to be regarded as a fashion item as it is today is because of the popularity of vintage clothing in Japan, which spread around the world in a reverse-imported fashion. At the time, we were just an American athletic wear manufacturer, so it was doubtful if we could even call it a collaboration. It is possible that we simply used "Champion" for the body (laughs).

-Is there an original story for this as well?

The design was probably inspired by Champion's vintage collegiate pieces that can be found in vintage stores. In that sense, this item is the hub that connects us and older generation of vintage clothing freaks with the new generation of vintage lovers. I think it's aptly called "New Vintage". And here is a dead stock item!

Supreme T-shirt ¥29,800 (Instant Bootleg Store)

-Photo T is an item that requires great taste, but what is the point of this?

The definition of "vintage" is not the same as just being old. It is important to have a story behind it, or a model that was worn by someone, or some other added value. This one was released in 2019, so it's not old, but the story behind it is outstanding! As many of you know, right after Supreme London opened, there was a signboard theft. So, right after that incident, this T-shirt was released just in time for the closing of the first store, which was located on Lafayette Street.

-and how are those two topics related?

In fact, the banner in this photo is the first banner that hung in the first store. Hence, it is said by fans to be a double-meaning. It is a design that symbolizes the year of the theft, the closing of the store, and the historical events, so it is very emotional, you say. Well, in terms of the item, it can be considered a variant of the box logo. Also, since few photo items of the box have been released, it is a very valuable item. From this point of view, this "Banner T" could be a new vintage item in 10 years.

-I'm sure that knowing the background makes me instantly want it (laughs).

As I mentioned in the spin-off episode, Supreme never announces the original source material. But that exclusive nature is what makes them so cool. Even the T-shirts introduced here require a great deal of prior knowledge on our part in order to understand the meaning of the design. That is why, when you understand the meaning of the design, you become attached to it many times over. Because the brand is capable of making high street items, sampling does not make them look cheap, and the fact that they are making such items every season is worthy of praise. It is precisely the things that you might pass by if you only care about design or name value that have hidden value as new vintage. If you are interested, I recommend that you do a lot of research and dig deeper.

Hajime SAKAMOTO / President of instant bootleg store
He worked in the vintage clothing industry for over 8 years at "BerBerJin" in Harajuku, Tokyo, where he also gained experience in buying. After that, he joined the select store "FAN". Since then, he has been involved in various projects. The secondhand clothing shop where Hajime Sakamoto sells what he thinks are good items with the theme of "a wonderful way to spend your money" isinstantbootlegstore."The first is.
Instagram:@hajime0722