So, What is NEW VINTAGE? Vol.18 "Nowadays, it is difficult to find even secondhand clothes.

What is the New Vintage anyway?

In the 1990s, the term "vintage" was used to describe vintage clothing that did not meet the definition of "antique," but was still valuable. Nowadays, there is a movement to find new value in "new vintage," even in old clothes from the 1980s onward, which were called "regular" at the time. In this project, four vintage clothing stores with different styles propose new ways to enjoy vintage clothing. Each of them will talk about the charm of vintage clothing with their own sense of style.

Three stores have changed since the last issue. The 18th edition features a new addition, Hiroyuki Abe of PENGUIN TRIPPER.

Text_Tommy
Edit_Yosuke Ishii

Hiroyuki Abe / Manager, PENGUIN TRIPPER
Vol.18_Stussy's T-shirts

-What is the new vintage for you?

In the case of our store, we have been focusing on "Stussy" from the beginning, but "Stussy" is a brand that was born in the 1980s. Yet, there are so many people looking for items that are 10 years old. I feel that Stussy is on the borderline between new vintage and true vintage.　I feel that it is on the borderline between new vintage and true vintage. I hope that people will simply enjoy the brand because "good things are good, and that's why they are valuable.

-Stussy already had an established market in the skate and surf sideways genre in the 1990s, but what about the items in recent years?

The market for this area has also been completely established. However, it was just before the Internet became so widespread, so even in the early 2000s, there was very little information available. But it is very difficult to find out which tag is attached to which item and which period it is from.

-What are some of the new vintage items you are going to introduce?

Of course, it is Stussy, but I wanted to introduce what I call "chaput-only" items. In short, they are items that are limited to stores. The original stadium jacket is said to have been released in 1995. Since then, it has become a regular event to commemorate new store openings, anniversaries, and renewals. A huge variety has been released so far.

-A chaput is, in essence, a ____ store. Like a Harajuku chaput if it is a Harajuku store.

That's right. We explain this to our customers when they ask us about it, but even though we now offer limited editions at retail stores, we no longer do so at all, so many of the younger generation are unaware of the existence of this type of product. There are many interesting items with elaborate designs, so I would like to take this opportunity to introduce them to the younger generation. However, there are very few of them, and even I have not seen many of them when it comes to chaput-only products. Therefore, the definition of "New Vintage" may differ from what has been described in this Series. By the way, there is a story that only three T-shirts were sold in the store.

-That's usually very rare (laughs). Is this genre not systematized?

I'm surprised it hasn't been done. ...... There are quite a few chapts that have closed now, and there are many secret releases, so I don't think there are many people who are completely aware of all the details. This is just a rumor, but I heard that there was a time when they did things on their own without reporting it to the home country. That kind of background is also very interesting.

-Did these items have to be designed for each store?

Yes, I think so. It seems that the design was completed, and if it was approved by the home country, it was OK. There were also regulations for logos and fonts, but I have the impression that they were made as they pleased. Let's take a look at the items. First, let's take a look at three photo T-shirts using "champion" body.

(from left to right) Stussy's T-shirts ¥11,990 / ¥12,990 / ¥12,990 (All penguin trippers)

On the left is a 10th anniversary item from the Hiroshima Chaput, released in 2005. It looks like the photographer is Mr. David Dobson, who deposited the Stussy clothes and had them photographed with the kids wearing them during his travels. He is the one who has shot numerous Stussy ads.

The center one was released for the 5th anniversary of the Kyoto Kawaramachi Chaput. 2003, I believe, and you may know this design as it was used in an advertisement and is famous because of its originality.

This one is for the 5th anniversary of Kagoshima Chaput in 2005. It existed in advertisements, but as far as I know, I think this is the first time it was released as a T-shirt. It is also attractive to have something special like that.

-Do these series have names?

They are commonly known as "kids' photos. The photo on the left was probably originally taken for an advertisement, and the other two photos are from kindergarten graduation albums from the 1940s to the 1960s. Inline photo T-shirts are very popular, and these "kids' photos" have a lot of fans. The simple Champion body and the fact that it is a Chaput limited edition is also a point of attraction. Even though it's a reprint, I sometimes think it's harder to find the original than the reprint.

-As one would expect from Stussy, the knowledge is deep!

So I have had designers from overseas contact me and say, "I saw your Insta photo and made a sampling of it. Even back home at Stussy, new hires to the design team are told to check my account first (laughs).

-Previous,spin-off episodeI mentioned the episode of the SUPREME design team visiting Japanese vintage clothing stores to look for samples, but it's the same thing.

(from left to right) Stussy's T-shirt ¥8,990 / ¥6,990 / ¥8,990 (All penguin trippers)

Next, here are three pieces that are unique to the Chaput Limited Edition. From left to right, here is another Tachikawa Chaput exclusive, released in 2004 for the 5th anniversary. At the time, the original camouflage with this graphic pattern was also made, and military jackets and cargo pants were also available.

And this one is a limited edition of Kyoto Chaput in 2010. The word "Sutekishii" is drawn in hiragana, and behind it is a SS link. The calligraphy-like arrangement can only be found in Kyoto, one of Japan's most popular tourist destinations. I have the impression that there are many Japanese-style designs in the Kansai area.

And the one on the right was released in 2007 by Okayama Chaput. I have no idea what the original is (smiles), but I guess it is an image drawn with a brush...well, simple things like this are possible.

-It is indeed fun to see again the reprinting of masterpieces and localized designs that show the local character.

It is not generally known, but chaput is a franchise format, just like convenience stores. Therefore, the color of the operating company is strongly reflected, not to mention the local characteristics. For example, Fukuoka Chaput has often collaborated with Futura Laboratories because the two companies operate together. Knowing this kind of behind-the-scenes information makes it even more enjoyable.

-It seems that many of our readers in their late 30s and 40s, who were baptized in the Uraharajuku movement of the time, are still sleeping in the depths of their closets.

It is. Therefore, it is difficult to discover them. Secondhand clothes will not appear on the market unless someone sells them, so there are many people who have cherished them as collections since the time they were made, and there are many fans who love their local chaput. As I mentioned earlier, because it is not something you can just drop by a store and buy, people are naturally very attached to it.

I think the hurdle to get it is quite high....

As I mentioned at the beginning, the number of items sold is limited, so the number of items sold itself is very small. There are also many items that, once sold, will never come back to our store. Conversely, however, since only people who really like this genre are interested in it, there are cases where items are sold as in-line items, which means that there are few rivals. There are many items that simply have interesting designs, and if you see one somewhere, we recommend that you get it as soon as possible!

Hiroyuki Abe / Manager, PENGUIN TRIPPER
He owns more than 1,000 items from the STUSSY archives and is renowned overseas as one of the world's leading collectors due to the volume of his collection and knowledge. Harajuku, TokyoPENGUIN TRIPPERis a street-focused vintage clothing store that he manages. He is currently operating a second store, PENGUIN TRIPPER B1, also on Tonchan-dori in Harajuku.
Instagram:@penguin_tripper, ,@xxabehiroyukixx